savowood

I've been using www.ajusa.com to get a lot of stuff. I looked for them on their site using a 2001 996 as the car since I don't know which year yours is. They have them for front and rear, and two different ones for the front depending on your engine. The 121mm fronts are 97.81 and the rears are 141.21 per set. Fortunately, we don't go through rears that often. They're slightly MORE expensive for my Boxster, but still a hell of a lot cheaper than Pagid and the performance is fantastic. -Michael

Try EBC Yellowstuff. I have them on one of my cars and love them so much I'm replacing the Pagids on my P-car (when they wear out). Fantastic cold bite...possibly a little much if you aren't ready for it but not bad once you get used to them. The fade is non-existent. The modulation is fantastic. The noise is absolutely nil. The rotor wear is the same or better than stock. And the price is absolutely right. -Michael

I've talked to the guys at SPEC. Unfortunately, they have clutches for only the 2.5 tranny and the 3.2 tranny. They don't yet have one for the 2.7. The clutch I had before was the Sachs sport clutch. I've had at least two of them in there. It's just too much power for it. After about 15 minutes of tech talk with the import guy at SPEC who seems to know the Porsche quite well, he recommended I get the 2+ because of the amount of torque going through there. The 1 is fine for a sport clutch replacement, but the additional power (300+ HP) makes it hard for even the 2. The 2+ is the perfect fit according to him. The bad part is it will be at least two weeks before they can get a clutch back to me, and the price is not certain. It may help to have a large group of us 3.4l Boxsera owners make a group buy. I haven't asked, but I could call them Monday. -Michael

Ever since my 3.4 conversion last year, I find my clutches are like bad recordable CDs in a cheap burner. On the way to Summit Point this morning, I found my car slipping in third gear at fairly low RPMs. I called SPR to let them know I wasn't going to make it to the instructor meeting, or the rest of the day for that matter. Now, I'm frustrated... Which clutch manufacturer should I be looking at? I have ACT on my Mazda, but they don't have an application for my Boxsera. Two clutches in a year is a bit much. I had one replacement when I first got the car, as some of you will remember from the dramatic day at James Woods High School during Porschfest a few years ago. That replacement got burned up fairly quickly with the 3.4 pumping 300+ HP though it. The replacement for that one is now also nearly gone. I need a really good clutch to handle the power I'm putting through, and no the OEM for the 996 won't fit the Boxster tranny. -Michael

I've found several good sites for doing small projects on my car. Here's one of them: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/headlamp/ -Michael

I'm having a similar issue, but my top won't go back up. When I press the switch on the dash, nothing happens. The windows don't drop and there's no indication the motor is getting any signal to raise the top. Yes, the hand brake is pulled up. I first tried with just one click, but when I got nothing I pulled it up all the way. I just got done doing a short shifter installation on the car about two weeks ago. Did I possibly not properly reconnect something in there? Is there an easy way to reconnect it or am I going to have to remove the whole console again? -Michael

I'd recommend calling Roock in Atlanta. Yes, I know that's not the NE, but that's where I had my car done and I'm in the DC area. The cost to ship your car down there is negligible when you consider the overall cost of the swap. The drive back home from Atlanta is a good shakedown. I got a good chance to feel the difference on the mostly Interstate ride home. This better prepared me for the track when I did get home. Worry less about getting something local and more about getting a top notch swap done. I've driven Roock cars other than my own and I've found their work to be fantastic. You won't be disappointed. They do a lot of swaps and have it down to a science. -Michael

PSM is without a doubt better than TC. I've driven both, have TC, but wish I had PSM. That being said, I prefer to use neither on the track. I drove a friend's 997 Carrera S on the track with it on, and my Boxster (3.4, PSS9, etc...) with it off. I was able to smoke the times I got in his car. It felt like it was being a little overly cautious. I made a few more runs with the PSM off in the 997 and was able to get closer, but still not quite catch the Boxsera. I would have turned off the PSM in the 997 but I didn't want to spin the car into the wall. Had I turned it off, I might have been able to get another second and a half out of it, but that wouldn't have been enough, and I don't have a spare $90k lying around. The next day in the rain, it was the complete opposite. I had a hard time getting the power to the ground in the Boxsera, but the 997 was stable and fast. If I had the PSM in the Boxsera I might have been able to turn better times. The TC was so obtrusive I had to turn it off to get close to the 997. The PSM in the 997 was certainly there, but a novice may not have been able to tell it was working. As far as the street is concerned, my driving skill has saved me many times; the TC/PSM never. Using electronics to make you a better driver is not a good way to go. It would tend to make you worse since the car is correcting your mistakes for you and you don't learn from them. If you spend a lot of time at the track _learning_ how to drive, you'll be better off and won't miss having the fancy electronics.

Since you're looking at $15k to put a new 2.7 in there, I can highly recommend putting a 3.4 (or bigger) from a 996 in there. I blew my motor and replaced it with a 12k mile 3.4 from a 996. I don't regret it for even a second. I spent $15k for the entire process including a PSS9 and a fresh set of Toyo R compounds. You don't say where you are, but I'm in the DC area and shipped my car to Roock in Atlanta to have it done. Autobahn Ambition magazine did an article on the whole thing in their current issue. http://www.autobahnambitionmag.com/ Get the free registration and read the article. I think it starts on page 34 or close thereto. -Michael

On my 2000 Boxsera, I have the ability to turn on the diagnostics through the AC controls. I get things like RPM, various temps, and of course the speed. When I pull the speed up, although it doesn't update more than once per second, it's very accurate. I checked it against my GPS and accelerometer. My digital speedo is 2.6 mph high and the analog one is 1.5 mph high. The one in the diagnostics is dead on. It appears most of the car's functions use the diagnostics speed to do things like the MPG and average speed calculations, as well as the odometer. Maybe things have changed in the cars since 2000, but the accuracy is there, just not in the "safety margin" in the digital and analog speedos. -Michael

You could always get a '99 996 roller and put a 3.6 or 3.8 in it. Motors aren't hard to find on eBay, and you could always just get one from the dealer. You'll spend less and get amazing performance. -Michael

I think it's even simpler than this. It sounds to me like your headlights have burned out and you're using just the running lights. Go to your local auto parts store and get a pair of H7 bulbs (I like the Silverstar). Take the headlight module out of your car and replace the lamps. It'll take you about 15 minutes your first time, and about 5 minutes the next time. It's a very easy job. Tune in next week when we discuss not paying to have your brake pads changed. :P -Michael

I have the 3.4 in my Boxster and used their flash for my specific situation. Initially there were some issues, but working with them I was able to get it working. The one on their site is the result of our working out the kinks. I've been very happy with it. I have a lot of power to the ground and I don't have any CEL issues. -Michael

When I first got my 2k 986, I could get 28 on a good day coming back from the track, four lane divided highway, running 65 or so. I've swapped out the original motor for a 3.4 and am now getting, as of just the other day to my buddy's house, 32-33 for most of the trip, then when we hit the stop lights by his house, it dropped pretty quickly to 31. Right after the swap, going from Atlanta to Washington, DC, I got about 30 the whole trip. -Michael

This article should do it for you. -Michael

Mine is 3 m.p.h. off. Actually, when checked with an accelerometer, it was 2.6 to be exact. I have a larger tire on the car than stock. My fronts are 235/40-17 Toyo RA1 instead of the stock Michelin 205/45-17 rubber that came with the car. I also first noted the difference when I got my sat nav (TomTom) and was curious about the actual difference. Most "officials" will tell you the GPS system as used by commercial entities is not accurate to better than 3 meters or so (I think that's the right number), and better than that is only for military use. They can't guarantee it is accurate. However, even mil-spec sat nav isn't going to be as accurate as an accelerometer. Also interesting is the digital and analog speedometers on my car are exactly 1 m.p.h. off from each other. The digital is 2.6 and the analog is 1.6. -Michael

The difference in price should be negligible, but the difference in bite should be quite noticeable if you go with the high performance heavy duty clutch. While in there, do the flywheel as well. I did this on my Boxster with the 996 3.4 and the difference is amazing. Even though the stock clutch is rated for more power than you have, err on the side of longevity and go for the better clutch and flywheel. I think you'll find the increased performance to be worth it. -Michael

I'd highly recommend using a shop where they specialize in engine swaps. I had my 2000 Boxster fitted with a 3.4 and a buddy had his 99 C2 fitted with a 3.6. The results are fantastic, and you get the support of the shop. They've already made most of the mistakes you'd likely make doing it on your own. Let their experience work in your favor. -Michael

In my 2000 non-S Boxster, I used to get around 28 on the highway and 19-20 in town. This was using 93 octane fuel. I've never used anything lower than 93. I would guess you'd get slightly better in the S, but you do have a bit more weight which may negate that. Currently in my Boxster, I get about 22 in town (18-19 if I've been playing) and right around 30 on the highway. However, this is with a 3.4l Carrera motor from a 996. YMMV -Michael

Go for the 996 engine. I did the 3.4 and spent about the same as I would have to simply replace the motor with the same 2.7 I had in there. -Michael

Putting a bigger or more powerful motor in the Boxster is a good way to get a super-car on the cheap. For $20k, you can get a good base Boxster, and with another $15k or so, you get put a 3.4 in it with some nice suspension mods (PSS9, anti-roll bars). This should result in an extremely well balanced track monster, and total sleeper. For a $35k budget, you get something faster, but not necessarily nicer. Porsche has a few nice luxury touches in the 911 you can't or usually don't get in the Boxster. If you're concerned with performance, the Boxster with engine mods will be scary fast. If you're concerned with looks, the 911 is classic and hard to beat. -Michael

You can't just add up the upgrades to get your total HP boost. It doesn't work like that. Sadly, you have to take what you can get. All that stuff will probably net you about 20 HP, which won't be really noticeable unless you're tracking the car and are really consistent. You might see a half to full second difference depending on the course. Also, if you're going to lighten something on the front, you should do the same to the rear and in the same amount. The balance of the car is really nice as it sits and messing with the weight distribution is probably not going to help in anything but a drag race. Since you're probably going to do it anyway, I'd recommend the Dansk headers, cats, and exhaust as my first option. I don't know why I like them better than the Fabspeed, but I do. Fabspeed would certainly be second on the list. Again, I can't tell you why I list them in that order. It's something I can't quantify. -Michael

Are you running your air conditioner? That could account for the water under the car, although not the lower coolant level. I'd guess you have a damaged coolant line. When you check the water under the car, is it water or a water/coolant mixture? Where is it located under the car? As for the temperature, that looks quite normal. Mine's usually even a little higher, but then again, I may drive a little harder than you and the ambient temperature may be a little higher here. I also have a 3.4l motor so things are a little different. -Michael

It wasn't difficult, now that I've done it. Figuring it out was a pain. Basically, to start, follow the directions in the post above to remove the accelerator pedal from the floor. Then, you need to remove the cable from the cam. I was about ready to just snip the cable, but I didn't have a pair of wire snips strong and sharp enough. I realized I can simply remove the cam. A 10mm socket will do nicely here, but you'll probably need to have it on a handheld instead of a power drill. It's a pretty tight space. There's a 10mm nut and a washer. Once this is off, jiggle the cam to get it to come off the spindle. Once this is off, the cable is easy enough to remove. The next part was a bear. I had to take a small flat head screwdriver and push it up against the "wing" of the plastic piece which comes through the metal bracket. Forget trying to remove the bracket. You don't have the time. :D Once I got one wing through the bracket, I was able to twist and turn the piece to come through the square hole. This was the most violent part of the process, and much inappropriate language was uttered. There may be an easier way to do this. If someone else figures it out, please post it. Putting the new piece in was not all that bad. I put the cable through the bracket's square hole. Align the "nubbin" on the plastic piece to the driver's side door. This will save you about 5 minutes of wondering why the stupid thing won't go through the hole, and a lot of thinking about round peg square hole jokes. You should feel a nice secure snap into place. Now, connect the cable to the cam. Guide the cable through the groove of the cam and rotate the cam until the cable is taut. Then, put the washer and nut back on. You can probably slip the cam around a little tighter before you tighten the nut. Now, put the pedal into the "holder" in the firewall. This is basically just the opposite of taking it out. Check your pedal travel while watching the cam. It should move fully and freely. Start the car, make sure it idles as it was, and then try giving it some gas. Try the pedal a few times to make sure it feels right. Put your tools away, and give the old pedal a nice heave-ho. If you can clear 33 meters, you did better than I did. My arm was sore from being contorted in strange positions while doing this stuff above, so I think I could get more distance if I waited a few hours. There was also a headwind. And it was uphill. :rolleyes: Let me know if I missed anything. I think I got it all. I don't have pictures because I don't have a camera that small other than my mobile phone's camera, but it's ability to pick up anything in that dark a space (even with a flashlight) is miserable. The shots I do have look like black blurs. -Michael

In preparation for the new pedal arriving tomorrow, I started to take the old one out. I got it off the floorboard, but it's not so easy to get it off the next point. The cable coming out the top goes into another unit. I'm afraid to twist too hard, but that connection doesn't seem to be one I can easily remove. It's of course a bit difficult to do while hanging upside-down, feet above the roll bar and head down by the pedals. The pedal has a cable coming from the top. That cable goes into another cable at the top of the footwell. That connection appears to be able to be removed. That's the one I'm afraid to twist too hard. Can I use more force on this with the pliers? It started to torque the whole connection when I was trying earlier. -Michael