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Roadster 986

Contributing Members
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About Roadster 986

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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  • Website URL
    http://
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    PCA-FVR

Profile Fields

  • From
    Wisconsin
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Boxster 2.7 Red/Savanna Beige
    1998 BMW R1100 GS (1.1 liter "boxer")
    2006 Cayenne S Titanium Edition (daily driver)
  • Former cars
    Fun stuff with 4 wheels - Opel Kadett, Triumph TR7, Toyota Celica, BMW 318, BMW X3, 2007 Honda Ridgeline; and the stuff on two wheels - BMW K100 RS/ABS, BMW K1100LT, BMW R1100 GS, and some Hondas way back.

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  1. As a follow-up to the whine heard and referenced in this thread - today I completed rotor and pad replacement on all four wheels. Taking it out for a 40 mile shakedown cruise, I am happy to report that the whining noise is gone. I don't have a micrometer handy to get a good measurement just yet, but the rotors are probably worn ~ 1.5-2 mm each side (yes - out of spec). The ridge along the periphery of the rotor is what I believe caused the whining or “scraping” noise, as it wedged the pads into the wider groove worn into the rotor face. As for the brake job itself, let’s just say it is a
  2. This was interesting and timely information; my 02 has virtually the same symptoms. Mine seems to be on the driver's side; a whining noise that becomes noticeable around 25 mph on acceleration, and disappears at about the same velocity on deceleration. Just loud enough to be irritating in that I know something isn't quite right. A lot of searching this site previously had me thinking a bad air/oil separator, or as you had been suspecting a bad bearing. My first hunch, and the one that seemed the most plausible was brakes so I'm encourage learning that was what you verified to be the source
  3. Having just installed the PNP rear speaker kit, my guess is you would be disappointed with option 1. And as for your description of option 2, the rear speakers would still be disappointing. In my Boxster, to hear the rears at speed powered by the CDR220 head unit the fader needs to be set so much to the rear that the front and door speakers are barely audible. I was looking at that same Blaupunkt THA275 amp from Crutchfield, and plan on using it for the rear speakers, leaving the stock front and door speakers powered off the head unit. I’d even recommend going that route first, before rep
  4. Try 1266 or 1264 Loren - Turns out the 1268 was correct, thanks for helping to verify.
  5. Loren - If you could please look up another radio code. Preparing to install PNP speaker kit, did not get a radio code card with the (used) vehicle; although "1268" is hand written on the option sticker under the hood. Would like to verify before proceeding. 2002 Boxster 2.7 5 speed manual US Becker CDR-220 Type 4462 Serial # 15005474
  6. I've done a little searching and found some standard fonts, and other readily available freeware add-ons that are close, but not exact. Blazing and Bradley Hand ITC are close, but no cigar; Viner Hand ITC is my favorite, but it was unfortunately not available for my project - But WhisperWrite (a third party font readily available via search engine lookup) is probably the closest match I've seen. With some modifications via font spacing, italicizing, and bolding these fonts can be made fairly passable, but certainly not exact matches. My search was for the purpose of selecting a font fo
  7. Cheap being relative ... OK - gave it another try before deliberate destruction, and managed to get the driver side clamshell pushrod off from the V-lever. Used several pry bars, modified one with a notch to work (but it didn't), and ended up using an open end wrench to pry directly underneath the ball end. Now for the troubleshooting; 1st off I see no plastic whisker on my limit switch for the clamshell to contact telling the motor it is at the end of travel, just the metal spine down inside the plastic housing. Ah-ha - there is a connector to the driver side transmission that seems to
  8. Cheap being relative I'm hoping to avoid breaking something more expensive than parts that can readily be replaced without much cost or time. This post by Tool Pants on 6/3/07 indicated the potential to break the V-lever using a pry bar to pop the tie rod ends, I’d rather sacrifice a $12 part to avoid destroying a $41 one. Using a lot of force already, with a lot of metal flexing but nothing coming unglued yet. I suspect the cables as well, just having a bit of an adventure in getting to the point of determining that for sure. I was wondering about the operating sequence; seems it should
  9. Well, it seems I too have found that the convertible top can be temperamental. I've searched the posts in this forum folder, and they have provided me with a great deal of knowledge, but I am left with a question as to the least-cost method to proceed in repairing my non-functional top. Here is a brief history as to the symptoms; the electric motor had seemed as if it was laboring somewhat, although with the car new to me there was no point of reference to know if that was unusual. The top had over-traveled when putting the top up day prior (it approached the latching position, and while s
  10. Thanks; got it to clear for now & bookmarked the DIY fix.
  11. I'm new to the car, Durametric, and this forum - so please excuse my asking if I am missing the obvious. Using Durametric to diagnose an airbag light failing to extinguish, I found: 3 "Supply voltage" 46 "Belt Buckle Driver" Not wanting to leave well enough alone, also finding under Instrument Cluster: 9130 "Power Supply" 9150 "Spoiler Control" And under Alarm: 42 "Wrong key or wrong transponder" frequency 31 60 "Central locking limit position" frequency 127 33 "Interior Sensor faulty" frequency 22 54 "Tilt sensor not in idle position" frequency 15 21 "W lead (DME immobi
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