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Everything posted by azzar0

  1. Just crossed the 100k miles mark... I bought my '98 Boxster in 2007. It came with 16" wheels - I replaced them with 18" wheels and Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 Max Summer Performance tires. Replaced front and rear brake pads and sensors, painted calipers red, replaced shift knob with short shift silver / black, added spoiler button, garage door opener button, replaced convertible top transmissions. I did the 60k miles maintenance - oil change, fuel filter, spark plugs, polyrib belt, cleaned radiators, replaced air and cabin filters. Then I replaced all amber lights with LED lights and clear side markers, euro LED clear rear lights, and added Xenon lights (6k). Did the 75k maintenance, repalced parking brake switch, replaced hinge on the console, replaced all 4 O2 sensors, and just completed 100k maintenance (changed spark plugs, coil packs, air filter). Shortly after 99,000 miles the car started hesitating. Loren suggested a new MAF sensor - I replaced it and the car runs great again. Next spring I am planning on replacing the water pump / thermostat (just in case) and take a look at the suspensions, tie rod, bushings, etc.
  2. Thanks Loren! It seems the MAF sensor was going bad. I replaced spark plugs and coil packs (needed to, I had over 30k miles on the spark plugs and 100k, current milage, on the coil packs) - that made a small difference but did not fix the problem. I ran without the MAF for a couple of days and, for the most part, things were OK. I ordered a new MAF sensor and put it in, and so far (70 miles later) the car runs smooth, there is no hesitation, and no CEL light on. Thanks again.
  3. Hello, I noticed that lately my '98 Boxster started hesitating, especially at high RPM. I couldn't get it over 5500 RPM in 3rd gear, for instance. I replaced the spark plugs and it has the same issue. If I give it gas it almost chokes and backfires. I don't have the check engine light on. Idle is fine. I sprayed water on the coil packs while idling to see if one of them has a leak or something - I didn't notice a fluctuation in idle speed... Any ideas? Thanks in advance
  4. I took my 98 Boxster with (now) 77K miles on a few long trips. Last trip was in September, when I went Ohio to Vermont, then back from Vermont through Philadelphia to Ohio. More than 2000 miles in less than a week. The car ran like a champ, no problems whatsoever. I also drove 3 times Ohio - Philly round trips in the past, no problems at all and I am planning another long trip next weekend :) Drive away and enjoy it. Hope you have good weather
  5. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7062 It's a bit uncomfortable with the car on jacks but it's definitely doable. Good Luck!
  6. Hi Phillipj, How did you remove the rear bumper? Do you have a link for a DYI? Just curious, much like you I'd probably do it just for the heck of it :)
  7. Thanks Maurice :) I am getting ready to do my 75K maintenance tomorrow. Changing air filter, cabin filter, and oil. Last time I had the car up on jacks but I may try to get the oil change without lifting the car up or just lift it on one side to get to the bolt and lower it and let it drain. The dealer quoted me $707 for this. I spent less than $100 in parts and oil...
  8. As Loren said. I wanted to add that you might have the aerokit side skirts, but I can't tell from your picture. If you had a side view of the car we'd be able to tell.
  9. Spark Plugs DIY: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7059
  10. Interesting. So bare with me... Again, I am not arguing, nor am I questioning your logic, I am just trying to understand the complexity of the offset issue. If my understanding is correct, the definition of a wheel offset is the distance between the center of the wheel and the outer edge of the wheel, where the center of the wheel represents ET0. If the offset is negative than you would need to 'shave' the wheel in order to fit (because you are too close to the strut housing). If the offset is positive, then you would add a spacer to fit - is this correct? If the wheel says ET42, doesn't that imply a positive offset? If it was a negative offset shouldn't it be marked as ET -42? Following the notation logic, since you are 42 mm out and you need to be 47 mm out, doesn't it follow that you would need to add 5mm in order to accomplish that offset? I think the confusion is between negative and positive offsets. It appears that most people I've talked to assume a positive offset whereas you and jmatta assume a negative one. Also, if it was truly an offset issue, wouldn't I see this problem on BOTH sides? It is clearly happening only on the left side, not at all on the right side. Upon close inspection, I was able to confirm that the right fender was already rolled (the inner lip is tucked in) while the left fender has not been rolled (the inner lip is sticking out). My suspicion is that the left fender was replaced at some point in time, hence the difference; which would, in turn, explain the issue. With that said, I am more confused than ever :huh: Thank you for your input and patience
  11. Hi Brian, I used this wheel offset calculator, in addition to talking to various other dealers and shops: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp The offset calculator came back with the same results - EXTEND the wheels out 5 mm I am going to a Porsche clinic this Saturday and I'll ask my mechanic again about the details...
  12. Just like JMatta said - make sure you heat the paint (with heating gun / hair dryer), then slowly roll the bat and push the lip in. Google "fender rolling" and you'll even see some videos on how to do it (as well as how not to do it :>)
  13. Yes, I am sure. I am not trying to confuse you :rolleyes: The difference is that your car is an 02S while mine is a 98 base. I believe later and S models have bigger wheel wells to accomodate larger wheels, that's why you're not seeing an issue with the outside. My wheels are tight on the inside too, but not enough to cause a problem. :renntech:
  14. I am thinking about bringing the car to a shop to have them do it. The basic principle, however, is the same. Something pushes the lip inward; whether that something is a baseball bat or a roller dictates how smooth the surface and the overall lip looks when completed. You still have to apply heat to the paint (so that it doesn't crack), regardless of which approach you take. Aesthetics are not an issue, in my opinion, because you couldn't notice imperfections (should there be any) tucked under the fender. In any event, I only pushed in very very little, not the entire fender. I will talk to a couple of shops and see exactly how they do it and if the price is right I might have them do it.
  15. Thank You Loren, for validating the offset. Yes, the kit came with GT3 (longer) bolts with red sleeves.
  16. Perhaps I don't understand your statement - the correct offset for 10" rear wheels is 47 - 48, as Mike stated. That is POSITIVE offset, not negative. So, since my wheels have a 42 offset, adding 5 mm makes it 47. I am not talking about camber, that I agree that it should be negative, but the actual wheel offset. In any event, I had talked to my local Porsche dealer, TireRack, and a couple of other shops before I ordered spacers, to make sure I end up with the correct value. They all told me the same thing - 5 mm spacers. I don't know much about wheel offsets, and I am the first to admit it, therefore I ask those who know. Please explain why the wheels have the wrong offset, I would like to know. If anything I can go back and question the dealer, should you have a valid explanation. Thank You.
  17. For those of you who are interested - the answer, aparently, is fender rolling. It is basically a procedure that pushes the inner fender lip inward, thus creating more room for the tire. My neighboor, who knows everything about everything, immediately showed me why it rubs on the left and not on the right - the lip on the right side is not flat but bent upwards, whereas the left fender lip was horizontal. Long story short I used a rod to push the lip in a little bit, took the car out for a drive and it certainly diminished the rubbing, significantly. It still rubs if I go over big bumps (huge ones) - I may need to further roll the fenders (or take the car to a body shop, they have a special tool for rolling). The tool can also be rented from various sites on the internet, but a good ol' baseball bat works just fine if you heat up the paint and do it slowly... Anyway, mystery solved! Thanks all for your suggestions.
  18. Right, which is why I added the spacers. So now the offset is 47 (42 + 5).
  19. Hello, I recently installed 18" wheels on my Boxster (MY98 base). They are 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 42 rear with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s. I noticed that in certain circumstances, when I go over bumps at high speeds ( >70 MPH), although sometimes if the bump is big enough it happens even at low speeds, the left rear tire touches the top of the fender. I've had the new wheels installed for about a month and I put about 500 miles on them. The left rear tire has a mark on the outer edge from where it touches. It is not deep, but certainly noticeable. When I first heard the noise I ordered a 5mm spacer kit for the rear wheels. I got the kit and installed the spacers, but the tire still touches. Since it is only the left rear tire, I doubt that it has something to do with the offset or the size, otherwise the right wheel would show the same symptoms. Now I am thinking maybe it is the left rear suspension? Could it be on its way out? I've had the car for about 2 years, and it now has 76K miles on it. I do not know if any suspension work was done on the car - I doubt it. Is it possible that I might need to replace the suspension? What tests can I run to better determine the state of the suspension and/or the cause of the rubber hitting the fender? Thank You in advance for all your help. Edit - I mistyped in the title and put right instead of left. It is the LEFT (driver) rear tire that is touching.
  20. I just put 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 42 rear on my '98 base. (with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s). I had to tie the hand brake cables to the longitudinal axle (as per Porsche's bulletin) as it was touching the rear tires - did you have to do that too on your '02 S? Yes, noticed it immediately. I used some heavy duty black cable ties to pull them to the control arm...problem solved. soopster, I think if you looks around, you can get Carrera lightweights (replicas) for less than than that (made in Italy). One source that comes to mind is Wheel Dynamics. I don't want to hijack this post, but this is relevant to this discussion, I think. I noticed that at high speeds, if I go over bumps, I hear a 'rubbing' noise from the back. I am assuming it's the tires hitting the shock plate, but I am not sure. This only happens at high speeds (over 75MPH) and bumpy roads. The noise only lasts a fraction of a second and I only heard it twice in ~ 100 miles with the new wheels / tires. Since my rear offset is 42, that means that the height of the tire is less than a 47 offset, and sightly wider. According to Porsche all Boxsters '98 - '04 can 'wear' 18x10 in the rear, as long as the parking brake cable is tied up. Should I be worried about the tires touching the plates (even though it doesn't happen often enough)? Should I get spacers? If so, what size? I went with a 42 offset to make sure that I have more room vertically and I really don't want to push the tires out any more than they are... What are my options? Thanks!
  21. I just put 18x8 et 50 front and 18x10 et 42 rear on my '98 base. (with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s). I had to tie the hand brake cables to the longitudinal axle (as per Porsche's bulletin) as it was touching the rear tires - did you have to do that too on your '02 S?
  22. Hi Gus, Replacing the passenger side bulb made the headlight work again with the HID kit, yes, but it did not solve the flickering of the side markers, which are LEDs. The headlights never flickered to begin with, it's just the sides that do. Is your headlight flickering?
  23. These look interesting - how bright are they compared to stock / halogen and/or compared to HID lights? I had H7 blue lights in my fogs but took them out because they were not bright enough (worse than stock).
  24. I have heated seats in my Boxster, as well as my wife's Saab. Couldn't do without it now... I wish there was a way to have air conditioned seats in the summer time though, because the back of the seats get really hot with the top down. I was thinking of running a tube to the side, by the seatbelt buckle, but I don't know if that would work. Anyone have any ideas? :) Regarding heated seats though - I recommend it, but that's just me
  25. I have that too, mine is silver to match the exterior color ;)
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