azzar0

I am planning on doing an oil change on my 98 Boxster. I haven't been able to find a filter wrench (my local dealer told me they don't sell tools), so I am going to order the wrench from Sunset Imports tomorrow. My question is: can I go ahead and change the oil and replace the filter a week later or should I just wait until I get the wrench? The reason I am asking is because I already have the car up on jack stands and it would be really good if I could get the oil changed since the car is perfectly horizontal. My thinking was that when I get the wrench I could just jack up the left rear wheel and replace the filter, without having the level the car horizontally and lift it up on 4 jack stands again... Thanks, azzar0.

I read the DIY article on how to replace the fuel filter. I got under the car, removed the protective panel, and found the fuel filter, however I can't get to the hoses to disconnect them! I was able to pull the ground wire off, but it wasn't easy. There are 3 pipes on top of the filter. These pipes run front to back and I don't see a way to remove them (nor do I really want to try it). Given these circumstances, how can I get the filter out? Even if I disconnected the lines (which at this time it seems close to impossible), how do I then take the filter out, as it is blocked by the pipes? [MY 1998 Boxster] Any help in this matter is highly appreciated. Thank you, azzar0.

Thanks Thanassis :) All of the DIY links are in the 996 DIY section as I found out, because most projects apply to Boxsters as well, with minor (if any) differences. Here are the links I used: * Replace front brake pads / sensors: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7065 http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/ * Replace spark plugs: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7059 * Replace polyrib belt: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7061 * Replace fuel filter: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7062 * Clean radiators: http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/R...r/Radiator.html You might also be interested in these links: How to put your car on 4 jack stands: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3404 and / or http://boxsters.addr.com/jacking.htm Good luck

Whew, that's a relief! What about the insulation? Should I worry about replacing it or just leave it out? What is the clip you mentioned for? I apologize for all the questions, I am still on a stiff learning curve here... Thanks, azzar0.

I am going to get a Porsche oil filter when I get the oil filter wrench and a new aluminum sealing ring. I am not planning on getting under the car too much. I just need to get to the oil plug / filter and change the fuel filter. The fuel filter is where I'll be under the car mostly, I can get to the oil plug from the side with my arm extended (I think). Regarding raising the car - I understand that I have to use the jack points for the jack stands, but should I lift the car from the back (after I place the front on jack stands) from the engine block / crossover bar? I found this picture in a recent thread that specifies the rear jack point - is this safe to use? Thanks again Loren.

Hello, I opened the engine compartment (side and top) to check the polyrib belt (it looks good, but I think I'll replace it anyway since I am over 60K). While looking around I noticed a cap, in the engine compartment, on top, kind of behind the driver's seat that has a loose hose. On top of this cap it says something about "Hydraulic only" - the picture I took didn't come out right and I can't remember exactly what is says on it. What is this hose and is it OK to stay open like that? Does it need to be plugged anywhere? Also while I was in there I noticed that the insulation was ripped and it was actually touching the belt... I ripped the broken parts out - I figured it's better to be without than to touch the belt. Is there anyway I can replace that insulation? Thanks, azzar0.

Hello, I am planning on doing the 60K mile maintenance work on my '98 Boxster. I'll do it myself, thanks to the DIY articles and various posts on this site. I am planning on doing the following: * Replace front brake pads / sensors (the rear pads are still thick and I think I'll wait for the next time to change those). I found Mintex pads on eBay and I heard they are decent for street use * Replace spark plugs (stock from Sunset Imports) * Replace polyrib belt (stock from Sunset Imports) * Replace fuel filter (stock from Sunset Imports) * Replace air filter, cabin filter * Clean radiators I do have a few questions: 1) I live in Ohio - is Mobil 1 0W40 (European Car Formula) OK for my location? I know Porsche uses 0W40 and I found the oil on sale and I grabbed it, but I wanted to make sure. 2) Is it OK to use a NAPA oil filter (7211)? The shop I got the oil from told me that "Mobil 1 doesn't make oil filters for that car". It was hard to believe, but since they didn't have a Mobil 1 filter I got the NAPA one... 3) I read the article about putting the car on 4 jacks, but that is for a 996. What is the best way to raise a Boxster? I read somewhere a reference to "alternate mounting points" but I haven't been able to find the article that talks about that topic 4) Any piece of advice from your experience that I need to know prior to starting? :) Thank You all for your assistance, azzar0

Thanks Loren! :renntech:

Hello, I am thinking about changing my spark plugs, brakes, polyrib belt, and fuel filter. I have the DIY articles for 996 belt, 996 spark plugs, and a website link with detailed instructions for the brakes. Is there a DIY article for the fuel filter? If not can someone describe where it is located and how to get it in/out? Also, are the 996 articles for the belt and spark plugs valid for a 98 2.5 Boxster as well? From what I read they are, with the exception of opening the engine from the cabin to get to the belt, but reassurance never hurts :) Thanks, azzar0.

Thanks to this thread I went ahead and ordered a kit from CQLights as well. I got the 6000K. Installation was very easy. The only question I had was about the negative / positive wires in the original light socket, but a quick search revealed that brown is negative and yellow is positive. I was also able to fit everything inside the headlamp housing. No holes, no wires hanging outside. The ballast fits inside the housing and I glued it to the cover. Earlier pictures showed the ballast unit being bulkier / heavier. Mine is pretty slim, about 1/2 inch deep, and probably 3" x 2.5". I also taped some duct tape on top of the ballast unit so that it doesn't cause a short in case it touches the other connections. My lights are very bright, but I think I need to adjust them, they seem to be a little low and spread apart. I'll post some pictures if anyone is interested. Thank You all for discussing this toping and helping others :) azzar0.

Hello, Once in a while I can smell something when I get out of the car. It smells like hot coolant, but I checked the level and it is good. There are no leaks either. I read in the forums that 996s are notorious for this type of smell due to road residue / tire particles being burnt by the exhaust pipes. I was just wondering if this smell is normal or if I should have the car checked by a mechanic? MY98 Boxster Thanks!

This guy doesn't seem to be selling them on eBay anymore. Does anyone have his email address where I can contact him? Thanks, azzar0.

Having played with my top a lot, I can honestly say that the way it works electrically is a mystery to me. Maurice talks about the two switches, the B pillar and the one on top of the transmissions motor, and he is correct in that they exist. What they actually do - I don't know. I do know that it is not a combination of signals from those 2 switches that stop the motor when the top is down, because if that was all it took you could simply push the two switches, regardless of the position of the top, and cause the light to go out and/or the motor to stop. Obviously that is not the case (I tried), so there is something else that works together with these switches to send the STOP signal. I believe ToolPants mentioned that the relay 'knows' when to stop the motor, which leads me to believe that the light goes out (for top down operation) when 1) the 2 switches are pushed (ON) and 2) the relay says it's done (and turns the motor off). If any of these conditions are not met, then the light will stay on. You say that your motor doesn't stop running. If that's the case, I would try to swap a relay with someone else to see if that's the problem. It sounds like a good place to check... I am still having problems with my top, as the sides of the car where the transmissions are screwed in are not strong enough and they cause the transmissions to flex when high tension is generated by the UP movement, which in turn causes the white balls to pop. Going down is not a problem, just up. So for the time being I push the top UP button, then as soon as the clamshell moves down I stop and latch. The idiot light is on, of course, because I haven't completed the cycle, but at this point it's as good as it gets. The alternative is to disconnect the push rods with the white balls at ends and operate the top semi-automatically (push the button to raise / lower the clamshell and pull / drop the top up / down manually). I will eventually reinforce the sides as suggested, but I haven't been able to find a good, reasonable welding shop yet (and I haven't had the time to actively pursue this either). Good Luck and let us know if you decipher the electronics aspect of the top, as it is, for most people, a puzzling mystery.

Hi Loren, Does the kit come with the entire storage box kit or just the speakers? I don't have anything behind the seats, just the engine cover (98 Boxster). I wanted to make sure I can install the kit if I get it, and it would be worthless without the enclosure and the center storage box. Great price though! Thanks!

yup..whole kit and kaboodle... How did you get this deal? Any links available for the rest of us to look / get one? Thanks!

My motor and light do turn off eventually, but not when the two switches are pushed. I believe ToolPants' assessment that the relay has a timer is actually correct. The combination of all these variables triggers the light to go off and the motor to stop spinning. So, the relay uses logic to determine stop signals: if timer stops if motor switch is on AND b pillar switch is on turn dash light off and stop motor else turn motor off and keep dash light on else keep motor running and dash light on I believe the motor will stop running as soon as the timer stops. It is only the light that is getting turned off based on the switches positions. In my case I am trying to turn the light off and stop the motor prior to the timer's signal to check for the switch positions, which obviously doesn't do any good because these switches are NOT checked unless the timer has completed its cycle. I use the term "timer" loosely here, because it really isn't a timer per say; it's more like a counter of motor spins if you will, because it remembers where it was if you stop pushing the button and then push it again, etc.

Tool Pants, I tried again pushing the top lever down and pulling the B pillar switch - still no go. The light is still on and the motor will still run if I push the button. Thanks, Julian.

Thanks TP, I'll try again... I am aware of the control device to make the motor stop earlier, but I just want to use this avenue until I solve the real problem, not as a permanent solution. Does anyone have a description of the convertible top electrical components (including switches)? Thanks again, Julian.

Well, as I said before, pulling the 'finger' of the B pillar switch won't do anything. I manually pulled it all the way (and I hear no click in the relay). At the same time I pushed the motor switch down more, but the light is still on and the motor still wants to go. It will stop only when it thinks (and rightfully so) that the top is fully up. If these are the ONLY 2 switches that turn the dash light off when the top is fully up, is it correct to assume that pushing those switches (to make contact) will turn the lights off regardless of the position of the top? Based on what you're saying, it should, right? I will try again but based on my experience that is not the case. And let's assume that only these two switches control the light / motor in the UP position - what controls the light in the DOWN position? How does the motor know when to stop when it's going down?? Thanks!

I don't have a Bentley manual (yet), but I am thoroughly confused when it comes to the convertible top switches. I would like to understand how does the dash light turn off? What triggers it to turn off when the top is in full down position and what makes it turn off when the top is in full upright position? I only know of 3 sensors - the latch sensor, telling the motor to run or not to run when the button is pushed, the B pillar switch and the switch on top of the motor. BUT if I manually engage both of the latter switches the light is still on and the motor is still running, so there has to be something else. If I let the top go up by itself the dashboard light clears and the motor stops (when it works, mind you, at the moment it does go up but then the white plastics pop off, a different issue). Can someone please explain to me how it all works? The reason I am asking is because I would like to alter the timing a little bit, even if for a short while, until I get a permanent fix, to be able to cut the light and the motor one second before it goes out now. The clamshell will not be completely closed (about 1/3 of an inch above the normal 'close' level), but the top would be up, closed, and the pushrods wouldn't pop. Thanks! Julian.

Hi Topless, I completely agree with you, that's why I spend a lot of time reading these forums :) Last night I pulled the MAF out, cleaned it, and put it back in. I noticed that the MAF was a BOSCH part, NOT a PORSCHE part, which makes me think that the MAF was changed not too long ago, but I can't verify that assumption. In any event, I cleaned the MAF, screwed it back in, reset the codes (disconnected the battery for 40 seconds and it actually retained my radio code), and it's as good as new, at least for the time being. I should also mention that I performed the de-snorkel procedure a couple of weeks ago. I didn't pay much attention to that, but since the light came on again yesterday, I decided to revert the process and plugged the pipe back in. I am not sure if CEL and de-snorkel is coincidence, but I have read that other people experienced CEL after de-snorkel as well. Many argue that de-snorkeling doesn't have anything to do with the CEL but I have my doubts now. We'll see what happens later on. Thanks for your input

That's exactly right! As soon as they see a Porsche all pricing methods fly out the window and the 'custom' (read EXPENSIVE) quote is given... Yup, I am still hoping I can find a small shop with a reasonable, experienced welder. They're out there, but it takes a while to find the right place. It's even harder to find someone since it is such a custom job. Phone conversations lead nowhere, I have to be there in person and show them what I mean most of the time.

I am still searching for a shop that won't charge me an arm and a leg to do the repairs, but as Maurice noted, I think I found the root of my problem. Was your car in an accident? Have you checked the sheet metal behind the transmissions for cracks? Are the transmissions flexing when the top is moving? To look behind the transmissions take the side vents down and pull the rubber cover down. You will then have a clear look. I can take the vents off again and post pictures, if needed. I will keep updating my thread as soon as I make any progress, but for the time being I am looking for a reasonable shop. Until I find one I will continue to operate the top in semi-automatic mode (clamshell opens / closes OK, but I put the top up / down manually).

Hi Chris, Sorry about not posting the year / mileage - I assume everyone knows that information by now :) MY98 2.5L Boxster, 64,000 miles The CEL went off after a day or so without me doing anything. Today it's back on, after almost a week. The car runs fine, I can't see or feel any difference. I am not about to spend a bunch of money getting a new MAF, but I may clean it given that the light came back on. If that doesn't solve the problem, then I don't know... I guess I'll have to take it to a mechanic and find out what they say. I spoke with an independent shop and they charge $80 to read the codes (Porsche reader, not the generic ODBII codes). Would that be enough to know where the problem is? I would gladly spend $80 to diagnose the problem properly, but I would hate to start changing things left and right and still have problems.

I have to find another body shop. These guys told me it would cost me anywhere between $350 - $750, depending on how long they spend on it. The guy I spoke with told me it would take them either one day or two days. I told him I'd pay him that much if I see him physically spending 16 hours welding 2 sides on a car. ANY car, for that matter, leave alone a small car like a Boxster! Seriously, do they think that if you own a Porsche you like to give away money?!? I figured this is a 1 - 3 hours job AT MOST, and I was willing to pay no more than $300 max. I am not asking them to fix my top, I just need someone to weld and reinforce the sides. How hard can that be? If I had the knowledge and the tools I believe I could do it myself in less than an hour. My neighbor used his little welding machine and he was done in 10 minutes. Unfortunately his machine is not strong enough for what I need, but nevertheless, the principle, dynamics, and fundamentals of welding are the same, whether you weld two useless pieces of metal together or weld those pieces on a body of a Porsche. Sorry for ranting, I just can't believe the nerve on some of these shops...