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azzar0

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Everything posted by azzar0

  1. MY00 manual is here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...mp;showfile=947 Should be close enough to what you need. The key button you see is the door lock / unlock.
  2. Not sure what the problem could be, but a Boxster is faster, quicker, more stable, and more fun than a Z3 / Z4 and/or an Audi TT. And, unlike its 'competition', a Boxster is also a Porsche ;) Try cleaning the MAF as suggested - that might cure it. Also, has this car been running regularly? If so, what kind of driving (slow / grandma style, fast, hard, aggressive)? The car adapts itself to the driver's style. Is it a tiptronic or a manual transmission?
  3. Interesting debate. While I agree with both sides (I drive both ways for different reasons on different occasions), I would like to add that I prefer to use engine brake under wet conditions. I feel that I have more control when I apply less pressure on the brakes and use the engine to assist with slowing down. Perhaps it is only a perception, but it works for me :) Another reason to use engine brake is when you're speeding and you pass a highway entrance ramp and a police car enters the highway. Your radar detector doesn't beep, but you know they can turn it on any second. You don't want to attract attention by slamming on the brakes - drop from 5th to 4th and you will slow down while giving the impression that you are a speed-obeying Porsche owner :D I am not talking going from 120 MPH to 65 MPH, more like from 80 to 70..
  4. Is there a way to clean the engine? Mine is extremely dusty and wiping it doesn't really get it clean. Tool Pants, is the procedure you described valid for a MY98 as well or is the placement of the throttle body different? Thanks, Azzar0
  5. Hi Chris, That makes sense. The windows didn't go down when the top was up because the switch was always pushed in by the latch. I'll keep that in mind in case I need to use the top manually again. Wait a second... If it is the top switch, how come it doesn't do it when the top is operated in automatic mode? Is it because the clamshell sensors tell the computer that the top is completely down and therefore it ignores the latch sensor? Thanks!
  6. In case I need to go back to operating the top manually, is there a way to turn the sensors off? I am asking because every time I drove with the top manually put down the windows would go down the typical 1" or so whenever I hit a bump on the road. This kind of makes sense, because I am assuming that the clamshell is bouncing, causing the sensors to send some 'on' signal. If I could disable these sensors, then the windows would behave normally. TIA, Azzar0.
  7. It sounds like your motor doesn't 'understand' up or down commands. It just turns in one direction (perhaps the last direction it remembers). It might be a relay issue, but I am not familiar with how they work. It would make sense that the relay is faulty since it is the one sending the signal to the motor. I experienced something weird myself: I had everything hooked up and I was pushing the open / down button. The top went down, clamshell lowered in place, but the light on the dashboard won't go out. I kept pushing the button little by little until the motor stopped moving. The top was stuck, I couldn't move up or down at all. Once I snapped the pushrods off, the transmissions started to operate again. It was almost as if there was too much resistance and the motor stopped trying (perhaps it has a built-in resistance detection sensor?!?) I wish someone who knows more about motors would read your thread and shed some light on this issue. I will try to find out more info as well. Keep us all posted with your findings and good luck! Azzar0
  8. Update: This evening I replaced the transmissions on my 98 Boxster with 2000 style transmissions. Long story short - the top works, however I am not convinced it will continue to operate normally in its current state. Both sides still move a little when the transmissions are being engaged by the motor. When I say the sides move I reffer to the car sides, the metal part behind the fender, the actual car metal piece that holds the transmissions. Is this normal? I was thinking of taking the car over to a body shop and having them weld a support beam under the transmission to make it more stable, but if it is normal for the transmissions to pull on the sides then I won't worry about it. Also, I was wondering if someone can tell me if there is a difference between my 98 motor and a 2000 (and up) motor? FYI - I replaced both transmissions, cables, mounting bolts, and top pushrods (the ones with the white plastic connector on the ends). I am still using the old pushrods for the clamshell, but I am planning on replacing those as well soon, just to be sure.
  9. The top works with drills hooked up to the cables and it also operated from the almost completely open position all the way up to the almost closed position (about 6 to 8 inches from the windshield), when it started cycling back and forth again. I willl see if I can dig up something like a speedometer cable to stick into the cable motor so I can watch the rotation as you suggested. Regards, 1schoir. 1schoir, I had a similar experience with my top - the transmission moved in the same direction regardless of what direction I pushed the button. I am in the process of upgrading the transmissions to the newer style and see if that helps. I will let you know. I have all the pieces I need (I think) and I am planning on getting it done this afternoon / evening. I already have a thread about my top experience - I will post pictures and the steps I took in that thread. Meanwhile, continue with the motor suggestion and see if it behaves the same way when it gets to the positions you mentioned. My guess is that the motor will operate normally unhooked, because you don't have the load of the transmissions / top, but it's just an uneducated guess. You could also try to unhook the top and see if the motor spins the transmissions in the right direction without the top connected, although I am not sure how that would help, except adding more details to your diagnosis. Good Luck, Azzar0.
  10. Glad to see you solved your problem!!! I will try the door lock switch test also, just to 'exercise' the switch. Happy Driving :) Azzar0
  11. Hi Mustang, Interesting issue you ran into... First question that comes to mind is this: when you have the top down, are any of the sensor still on? Is the top light showing on the dashboard? I am in the process of fixing my top now and because the transmissions are not hooked up the clamshell is not pushed all the way down, which causes the sensors to stay on all the time, which, in turn, causes the windows to go down the usual 1" or so. This is annoying because I put them back up and then, as soon as I go over a bump or something, the windows go down again (perhaps because the clamshell rattles and jumps enough to quickly turn the sensors off and immediately back on). I don't have any problems with the top up, however, even though the top light is still on. Did you try to reprogram your windows? (Go all the way up and keep pushing the button for extra 10 seconds while the car is turned on) Please keep us informed of your solution and good luck!
  12. Thanks for reminding me, 1schoir! I would have kept the battery connected... I do have the radio code and tested it to make sure it works when I took out the radio to test a Pioneer. I haven't decided what I am going to replace the factory radio with yet, so I put it back in for the time being. I was thinking of getting a JVC b/c I have a JVC 12 CD changer already, but Pioneer is better. Of course, an audio upgrade involves amp, sub, and speakers upgrades as well, without those JVC will probably be just as good as the Pioneer...
  13. Stock 18" fitment on the 986 is 225/40-18 on 8Jx18 ET 50 and 265/35-18 on 9Jx18 ET 52. However, I am running 9Jx17 ET 43 on the rear of my car and they fit fine. The tire sizes for the 987 are a little taller than the 986 to allow the use of practical sidewall heights with 19" wheels. The 18" 987 wheels should fit your car without any rubbing. If they do rub, it will be very minor and can be fixed by adding a 2 or 3mm spacer. Please post pictures and whether you needed spacers or not here if you go ahead. Good luck, Graeme I think I will postpone the 18" wheels for later. My existing tires are almost brand new Bridgestone Potenza on 16" wheels. I will wait for those to wear out and then get a full set of wheels with tires. It just doesn't feel right spending a lot of money on wheels and tires when the existing ones are very good ;) I am looking forward to a 'meaner' look though :D
  14. Thanks for your input Mark! Since I am upgrading to the newer style transmission, though, I won't have to do all that, I just have to make sure that the two V levelers are synched, right? The new transmissions should never come off gear, so they should be able to move at all times. The passanger side already does that, as it is the new style (with old cable and bolts, but nevertheless the new transmission style) :) Thanks!
  15. Thanks for your thoughts, 1schoir. Unfortunately the problem is deeper than a simple out of synch issue. I posted my findings here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry75534 I will updated that post as I move forward. Right now I am waiting for the parts to arrive.
  16. The problem is far more serious than I was hoping, but fixable, I think. I took off the V levelers on both sides. The passanger side has been updated with the new style transmission, however (I can't believe they did this!) the bolts are from the old style transmission and it is wabbling. The cable is also the old style. Now on to the driver's side... Two out of three bolts are broken. The metal around one of the screw holders is broken (because of the pushrods forcing, etc). The entire transmission is moving all over the place and the cable seems to be too short. I ordered the new style transmissions (both sides, just to be on the safe side) off of eBay. The guy charged me $450 for both transmissions, cables, and bolts. They are not new, but pulled from a 00 or 01 wrecked car. I talked to my neighbor (who loves working on cars and has a whole bunch of SnapOn tools and such) and he looked at the damage and said he should be able to fix the metal holes by welding a few small stripes of metal around the screw housing. Then I will use 2.5 - 3 inch screws to pull the side of the car to the right position (right now the screws are pointing upwards instead of horizontal) and then use the correct bolts, transmissions, and cables to hook everything back together. I will take some pictures and post them here and I will let you know how it comes out. Hopefully it will work ;)
  17. why? if they are working i would leave them alone. if one (or both) of them break, then i would replace them. update: (just read your other thread). if the half-moon gear keeps coming off, then yeah, it might be wise to replace them. Yea, one of the old gears is 'weak' - it keeps popping... I am not sure why, but it looks like the passenger side is strong, it could almost pull everything on its own, but the driver side can't keep up, and that's what is causing the problem. I found the newer transmissions (pair) on eBay for $500, pulled from a MY00 or MY01. It looks like a good deal, because Sunset charges $368 a piece just for the transmission, plus I have to get the bolts and cables separately (another $75 or so for all of them). I don't even want to know what my local dealer charges - perhaps somewhere around $500 a piece and $100 for each cable (I'll ask, just out of curiosity). Thanks
  18. I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up). I know I will need to switch the transmissions, cables, and mounting bolts. Is there anything else that I need to replace? I ordered new push rods (with white plastic) and I am planning on using the existing pushrods for the clamshell. What do I have to do once I install the new transmissions, other than align the two sides to be synchronized? Thanks!
  19. Does anyone know? I would hate to get them and realize they don't fit or that I need something else. On a related note - if I get new wheels do I have to do an alignment as well? What about if I swap wheels with the old ones - would I have to re-align the car again? Thanks
  20. The push rods at first glance appear to be the same, but there is actually a difference in the part of the pushrod (the solid round metal arm) that attaches with the clip (i.e., NOT the ball/socket end). Make sure that you replace the correct part on each side. Part #: passenger side: 986 561 579 00 driver side : 986 561 580 00 Regards, 1schoir I think Mustang66 was referring to the other push rods, the ones with the white ball on the end. Those are $42.41 at Sunset. I know because I just ordered two. These are the same for both sides. The other push rods (the ones that connect to the clam shell) ARE different and the part numbers provided by 1schoir are correct. Those are about $60-some dollars at Sunset, but I think Mustang needs the same ones I ordered.
  21. Anyone from Columbus, OH know of an independent shop with a good Porsche mechanic? Not looking for anything in particular, just general - oil change, maintenance, etc. Thanks!
  22. I have the opportunity to get 18" rims with Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires at a reasonable price. I own a 98 Boxster with standard (16"??) rims. These 18" rims are part numbers 987 362 136 00 / HLB 8Jx18 ET 57 and 987 362 138 00 / HLB 9Jx18 ET 43 Would they fit on my Boxster? Do I need anything extra (spacers, etc) or is it just a simple swap? TIA!
  23. I opened up the recepticle and it turns out that a piece was broken. The broken piece is a white plastic 'gate' element, which holds a metal ball in place. The broken plastic piece was stuck and the wheel didn't move. I removed the broken plastic piece, removed the ball, and put the recepticle back in. The seat belt works fine now. What is the purpose of that ball? I also noticed when I had everything apart that the electric connection is NOT connected to anything. It comes from under the carpet, then connects to the plug on the bottom of the side, but then the top connection is tucked behind the foam / carpet on the side. I didn't see another connection anywhere near the seat belt to plug it in - anyone know where this wire goes to? Thanks.
  24. Hello all, My lovely wife took my 98 Boxster for a spin today and she came home with the driver's seatbelt all messed up... It won't go back in the recepticle, it is loose. How can I make it retract? Thanks!
  25. Agreed. I will get the push rods first and take it from there. Do you know the part number by chance and where I could get them cheaper? Or is the local dealer the only option? Thanks again, Julian.
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