lbp

Perhaps the observation was historical. Mine is old school & definitely not Porsche:

1. The seats must come out for placing the main hoop in the car. 2. The rear deck carpet (the section which covers the vehicle's electronics) will be modified to accept the rear tube & shock tower footing. 3. The outside floor corner (behind the seats' outer rear corners) will require drilling (necessitates removal & reinstallation of the belly pan). 4. The same outside floor corners will require the carpeting be cut to accept the cage's front footing & tube. - Also some incidental floor padding will likely be removed here. 5. You will need to take the vehicle to a Porsche dealer for a code reset. - Once the airbag harnesses have been disconnected/reconnected the bag error will become resident until reset with the correct diag unit. Note A: that if you are taller than 5' 10" you will find the stock seats too restrictive in the rearward adjustment which likely will necessitate fitting the 996 GT3 racing bucket(s), or some other (usually fixed angle) seat with a thinner back section. Note B: I tried placing the main hoop in the car (just to get it to the shop) with zero luck. I would recommend not frustrating yourself (or potentially damaging the car) with this. - It is much simpler (and safer to the car) with the seats first out of the car.

Here is a photo of the tire sizes/model. - If this isn't enough, let me know & I'll get a better pic for posting. ...There is a mark which states (in quotes): "(102Y) NO" but nowhere can I find any reference to either "System" or "Race" I'll look further into the tire warranty materials tonight & let you know if I find anything else. Thank you so much you have confirmed what I suspected and the Pirelli factory have denied I will order some straight away, the Michelins are to hard for competition unless conditions are very hot. The Pirelli's are softer, The Michelin have a wear rate of 80 the Pirelli have a rate of 60 Pirelli are much better in the wet the Michelin are a terrible wet and coldweather tyre and I would be very very very careful using them !!!! I have mislead you just discovered these tyrs in the picture are Sysem Tyres , they are a great road tyre with soft compound BUT not good as a track tyre there wear rateing is aroud 120 so are substantaillt harder than the Michelin and Pirelli Corsa race I think thoug for every day use a s a high performance tyre they are great. ...Interesting. I will check the tires for a wear rating. Thanks SS.

I have recently heard that the "Donohue" stripe is there to enable fast changes in the pits when the QR-hubbed car comes in for driver changes, etc.

I have solicited many opinions from Porsche race engine builders to Porsche dealership mechanics on this point. Everyone I have spoken to seem to say "drive it the way you will be using it." To which the dealership mechanic added " if it's going to break, it'll break." My thoughts on this comment might lead me to believe Porsche wants their cars "broken in" at a lesser load, perhaps to mitigate the damage (and their responsibility) in the event something is not quite right from the factory. But that is speculation on my part. The dealership mechanic also mentioned that these cars are routinely checked at both factory and dealership "at redline" before they are delivered. One other comment this older and experienced dealership mechanic added is that since these cas are delivered with synthetic oil, they can benefit from a more robust break in. It seems by comparison that conventional oil allows the parts to take a cut, which seals rings, etc. properly. To that point, my race engine builder emphasizes that his engines must be broken in with conventional oil before switching to synthetic. His comment echoed that of the dealership, - synthetic will simply polish the mechanicals before any break in occurs, not allowing the rings to seal. However, he does perform a dyno "break in" before delivery and I'm not sure what procesure he follows except that I do know he uses conventional oil. It would be interesting to find out if anyone knows or can get information on what Porsche does at the factory to their engines. One thing I have heard repeatedly which seem important: Do not run the engine at a steady rpm for an extended period of time, for example on a long highway trip. Lots of variety in terms of shifting and changing rpms seems to be a key to proper break in. Another thing I do with every new car (not just Porsche) is change the oil at 2k miles to flush any possible manufacturing reminants early on. I babied my RS for the first 1200 miles, but have taken it up to 7000 since then. It won't see redline until 2K miles. PS - I would concur that breakin is likely more critical to a tubo'd engine.

Does anyone have experience with the fabspeed kit? FabSpeed 997 GT3 exhaust kit Thanks in advance for any information.

I can't seem to heel&toe my RS no matter what! Too, the ceramic brakes conspire heavily against any experimentation. I noticed this link from nfesas: Rennline heel & toe kit found on the the 987 forum. Does anyone know if this kit will work (nfesas?) on the 997 GT3RS? Does anyone have an opinion on this rennline kit or any other H&T kit? I have an AP pedal box on my track car and must have been in an altered state when I ordered it - they are $4K! (but it has spoiled me) Thanks for any input on a kit or special techique with the stock box I just haven't figured out. PS - I refuse to spend for another AP & hack up the RS to boot!

Here is a photo of the tire sizes/model. - If this isn't enough, let me know & I'll get a better pic for posting. ...There is a mark which states (in quotes): "(102Y) NO" but nowhere can I find any reference to either "System" or "Race" I'll look further into the tire warranty materials tonight & let you know if I find anything else.

My GT3 RS was delivered on Aug 14th with Pirelli tires, not the Michelin cups most seem familiar with. Does anyone know anything about the Pirellis or how they compare to the Michelins? Thanks.

I'd be curious to learn what oil change intervals are being used by GT3 owners. I am planning on the old-fashioned 3,000 mi. which is by all accounts a total waste in many ways. None-the-less, I prefer to see clean, clear oil coming out as well as going in. I have used this admittedly overly-aggressive (particularly with synthetic) interval on my trucks and other vehicles to observe that the rest of the machine falls apart around a perfect engine. PS - oil in track cars get changed every event. This has more than once uncovered potentially costly events totally unrelated to oil condition.

...and here is a link to the RS site: Porsche Origin GT3 RS

Hoosier "DOT" Slicks Read up on what Hoosier has to say about "DOT Slicks." I'm willing to bet this obvious answer is not what you are looking for. If however it is, look into the "autocross" version (is it still available?) as it will warm up (and go away) more quickly for off track (street?) use PS - I belive the 315 is actually the same width (profile is 40! maybe there is something else there you can use) as a 305, but confirm with Hoosier.

..find a couple of club buddies with cars of your choice & go for a drive. Requirement: Join local Porsche Chapter. Other Notes: If you are inclined toward the GT3, after all is said and done, you may indeed wind up on the track yourself.

...to keep the front pointing "front." (i.e., to continue tracking in a straight line: "keep on top")

Does anyone have information regarding or experience with the Farnbacher-Loles 997 GT3 exhaust and or software mod? - Software w/o their exhaust is claimed to deliver 430 hp; s/w with their exhaust is claimed to deliver 450-460 hp. S/w cost is $1500, exhaust is $7,800. Prices are ala carte only. - Are any such packages currently available from other providers? Thanks. - here is a link to the FB kit: Farnbacher-Loles Exhaust Kit

Yes, I have a rear (Porsche) bar coming in at Farnbacher-Loles in Connecticut USA (mid northeast seabord). It was available as black only. - I am having it powder coated orange. Sidebar: according to F-L the correct Porsche color code for GT3 RS orange is: "L8C6" (if your trusted paint shop can match by code). Suggestion: Get a can of green Porsche touch up paint from your dealer (or other color of your choice) & give it to your paint or coating guy to match & compare. Also note that powder coatings cannot be mixed to paint codes... (i.e., can be matched by visual comparison only).