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latestart

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About latestart

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, Enterprise Software, Youth-Service Non-Profits, Photography

Profile Fields

  • From
    San Francisco, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996
    1988 M5
    1988 M3
  • Future cars
    Boxster
  • Former cars
    Karmann Ghia
    Audi Quattro Coupe
  1. Completed the job today with parts from Sunset. Approximately $230 in parts before express shipping (included new tank, 1 gallon in coolant, sensor, new cap). MY99 C2. Took me about 2-3 hours. I did some other things at the same time (air filter, cabin particle filter) and I had a few bumps in the road (lost a grommet, car wouldn't go high enough for my jack stands, had to re-read parts of the directions). Relatively straightforward. Getting the tank in and out is tedious. Here are a few comments: 1) Agree with the poster that recommended REMOVING the air pump instead of pushing it aside. -- just makes it easier to get the tank in and out. NOTE: the connector on that airpump mounts to the airpump body. It SLIDES loose. I pulled out against it (instead of sliding) and the plastic cracked. It didn't break in a way that required replacing, but better to not break the nice mounting point. 2) Make sure you have a decent tool set. Two things that are very helpful are: (1) deepset 10mm socket. The top nut that holds the tank and the air pump was on a bolt that was too long for a normal socket. I didn't have that and it took a bit longer to remove. (2) The two bottom bolts on the are easier to remove if you have an extension of approximately 6". I used a quarter-inch drive, 10mm socket with an extension. There is a rubber grommet on the airpump mounting plate where it screws down against the car. Best to pull it off and set it in the parts tray. It is about 1 inch around and slides into the metal mounting plate. I left mine in and it became dislodged, fell in the engine bay and took me 20 minutes to find. 3) The hose clamps are a PITA to remove and re-install. They look like there is a specific tool for them and it sure would help. I used locking vice grips and that was decent, but not a great solution. 4) I re-inserted the new tank before installing the sensor. Don't mount the tank in the 'slot'; while it is loose, you move the tank until you have enough room to slide the sensor into place. I am not sure I could have gotten the tank in place with the sensor installed. I purchased a new sensor as a safety measure -- of course I didn't break the old one. 5) I used tie-wraps to hold stuff out of the way while working. This had two advantages -- it was out of the way AND I knew all the things I have removed and needed to re-install. 6) There are some plastic bits for holding hoses that are easy to break. I suspect they become brittle from the engine heat. I am going to look for the part numbers and post them. I am sure these parts are cheap, and it would be worthwhile to have some handle for the inevitable breakage. 7) This is a good time to replace the air filter if you are due. Easy and you are right there. Same thing for the serpentine belt in the front of the engine -- easy to replace and you are right there. I didn't clean the MAF, but you are right there for that too if you are so inclined. 8) I somehow fouled the cable for the engine release. It is 'loose' and I doubt it will work if I close the latch. If I discover anything when I fix it that is relevant to this DIY I will repost. Not sure if I pulled cable incorrectly or what. I covered the engine latch with a towel so I can get back in to inspect and repair tomorrow. EDIT: Note that the EMERGENCY release cable is in this area. It should be routed behind the drivers side stop light. I just needed to route it back to the original location. See this article: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...01&hl=Sandy. GREAT DIY. Well within the ability of of people with modest technical skills, patience and a decent toolset. PM if you have any questions.
  2. To clarify the post above: Code #46 with the airbag light on the dash is the problem I had. I reset the light and it has not come back in 1day/60 miles of driving. We'll see what happens.... Agree on the speed sensor -- probably the SMOG test Driving the car this week, will see what happens with the MAF-related code Thanks for the feedback, this board is really helpful. Cheers, John
  3. Hi: I have a MY99 996 C2 Coupe I got the dreaded seat sensor error 46 a few weeks ago, so I thought I would start the process by clearing the code. While I was there, I checked for other errors and encountered speed sensor errors that I didn't anticipate/understand. The only contributing factors I can imagine are: > Tires replaces a few thousand miles ago. Don't know if they ran the car on a machine (but I doubt it) > California SMOG test a few weeks ago -- I know for sure they run the rear wheels (only) on a treadmill-type device. Is it possible that the smog test triggered the error by running the rear wheels while the front wheels were immobilized? I also have error P1125 -- Oxygen sensing range 1 Cylinder (4-6). The car runs fine, I have just under 45k miles. I have put on approx 20k miles in the past 18 months. 90% highway miles in a 60 mile a day round trip commute. I saved all of the information and cleared all the codes so I can check in a week and see if they re-occur. Any thoughts and feedback are welcome. Thanks in advance! John
  4. I don't know how I missed this posting when I was looking earlier -- I have EXACTLY the same symptoms. I ordered a new cable (cheap) but then realized that mine doesn't appear to be broken... I will be following these directions immediately. Update 2/9/2008. Followed the process as described and it worked perfectly.
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