Completed the job today with parts from Sunset. Approximately $230 in parts before express shipping (included new tank, 1 gallon in coolant, sensor, new cap). MY99 C2.
Took me about 2-3 hours. I did some other things at the same time (air filter, cabin particle filter) and I had a few bumps in the road (lost a grommet, car wouldn't go high enough for my jack stands, had to re-read parts of the directions).
Relatively straightforward. Getting the tank in and out is tedious. Here are a few comments:
1) Agree with the poster that recommended REMOVING the air pump instead of pushing it aside. -- just makes it easier to get the tank in and out. NOTE: the connector on that airpump mounts to the airpump body. It SLIDES loose. I pulled out against it (instead of sliding) and the plastic cracked. It didn't break in a way that required replacing, but better to not break the nice mounting point.
2) Make sure you have a decent tool set. Two things that are very helpful are: (1) deepset 10mm socket. The top nut that holds the tank and the air pump was on a bolt that was too long for a normal socket. I didn't have that and it took a bit longer to remove. (2) The two bottom bolts on the are easier to remove if you have an extension of approximately 6". I used a quarter-inch drive, 10mm socket with an extension. There is a rubber grommet on the airpump mounting plate where it screws down against the car. Best to pull it off and set it in the parts tray. It is about 1 inch around and slides into the metal mounting plate. I left mine in and it became dislodged, fell in the engine bay and took me 20 minutes to find.
3) The hose clamps are a PITA to remove and re-install. They look like there is a specific tool for them and it sure would help. I used locking vice grips and that was decent, but not a great solution.
4) I re-inserted the new tank before installing the sensor. Don't mount the tank in the 'slot'; while it is loose, you move the tank until you have enough room to slide the sensor into place. I am not sure I could have gotten the tank in place with the sensor installed. I purchased a new sensor as a safety measure -- of course I didn't break the old one.
5) I used tie-wraps to hold stuff out of the way while working. This had two advantages -- it was out of the way AND I knew all the things I have removed and needed to re-install.
6) There are some plastic bits for holding hoses that are easy to break. I suspect they become brittle from the engine heat. I am going to look for the part numbers and post them. I am sure these parts are cheap, and it would be worthwhile to have some handle for the inevitable breakage.
7) This is a good time to replace the air filter if you are due. Easy and you are right there. Same thing for the serpentine belt in the front of the engine -- easy to replace and you are right there. I didn't clean the MAF, but you are right there for that too if you are so inclined.
8) I somehow fouled the cable for the engine release. It is 'loose' and I doubt it will work if I close the latch. If I discover anything when I fix it that is relevant to this DIY I will repost. Not sure if I pulled cable incorrectly or what. I covered the engine latch with a towel so I can get back in to inspect and repair tomorrow. EDIT: Note that the EMERGENCY release cable is in this area. It should be routed behind the drivers side stop light. I just needed to route it back to the original location. See this article: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...01&hl=Sandy.
GREAT DIY. Well within the ability of of people with modest technical skills, patience and a decent toolset. PM if you have any questions.