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kbrandsma

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Everything posted by kbrandsma

  1. If you are referring to this, it is the oil cooler. Water and oil both run through it (separately of course) and the radiator helps keep the oil cooler.
  2. Here are a couple of links that might help. The first link is from this Board on Renntech - Click Here The second is from another Board - Click Here
  3. The interior alarm sensor is part # 996.618.210.02- cost about $80.00. You can also try checking your alarm sensor. Make sure the top is up and latched (if top is down insert the red clip), put a window down, set your alarm, and then reach in your car or flash a hand around the interior to activate the infared sensors. If the sensors work your alarm horn will go off. If you have checked your ignition switch you might want to check your main head light switch. Here is a couple links that might be useful. Another Light Switch Electrical Problem Switch Removal
  4. On the alarm unit the only code that is currently present is 34. The frequency counters are the running total of each time they are present. The Durametric Tool cannot erase the counters(not sure about PST2 or PIWIS.) Do you have any other problems. When my car was parked the car alarm would go off randomly. Upon checking the codes I had an alarm code 23. I determined that I had a faulty interior infared sensor. I replaced the sensor and no more inadvertent alarms. The frequency counter stopped counting at 4 and has been at 4 for 2 years. I also had an Alarm Code 21. For me it has never been present. I'm thinking it might have been an issue for the previous owner. Here is a screen shot of my Durametric Screen Report just last week.
  5. I recently lost 2nd and 4th gear in MY98 Boxster. Before removing the center console to check the shifting cables attachments to the shifter I decided to first check the cables at the transmission end. I just drove up onto a few 2x6's and removed the metal aluminum plate located behind the passenger tire and between the muffler and catalytic converter. To remove the plate loosen the two 10mm nuts and remove. Here is what I saw. To repair: 1) Jack up the rear wheels with a hydraulic jack at the center jacking point 2) Place the car on rear jack stands. 2) Remove the passenger rear tire to gain better access and better lighting to transmission and shfting cables. 3) Snap cables back in until they clicked 4) check both cables (mine were both out) I read on another board that it is not uncommon to then use cinch ties to hold in place. If your clips are unusable you can order replacements for $10-$15 dollars.
  6. Loss of 2nd and 4th Gear I recently lost 2nd and 4th gear in MY98 Boxster. Before removing the center console to check the shifting cables attachments to the shifter I decided to first check the cables at the transmission end. I just drove up onto a few 2x6's and removed the metal aluminum plate located behind the passenger tire and between the muffler and catalytic converter. To remove the plate loosen the two 10mm nuts and remove. Here is what I saw. To repair: 1) Jack up the rear wheels with a hydraulic ja Author kbrandsma Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 01/25/2011 06:58 AM
  7. I upgraded to a Pioneer AVIC D-3 with a back-up camera and blue tooth adaptor about 3 years ago. I found a replacement center vent if I ever decide to go back to stock.
  8. Hi KashB and Welcome to Renntech You only need to post your question once. Double posting is not allowed. See guidelines HERE!
  9. Also, be sure to check the radiators at the front. A common problem is leaves and debris entering the car at the front and if you don't clean them out they can rot and corrode the front of the radiators and eventually the core. This will cause the car to dump the coolant. It's an age old problem on the 996's and it happened to me. I am in the process of getting mesh grill installed to prevent this from occurring again. HTH. I would be interested in what you found. Something similar happened to me and I replaced the cap and bleeder valve in MY98 986. Keep us posted.
  10. You will need the Air Oil Separator (AOS) or sometimes referred as Crankcase ventalation. It is #8 in the photo below. The AOS comes with the bellows tube and is not visible in the drawing. You also will need the "J" tube which connects the AOS to the throttle body or TB. It is #5 below. Here is a shot of the bellows tube that comes with the AOS. The bellows is the short accordian like tube and attaches the AOS to an opening in the crank case.
  11. Hi Dave, Would it be possible to borrow your copy of Excellence. I'm in Everett and would be more than willing to pay postage bothways or catch up with you sometime. I go to Bellevue, once a week or so.. Regards, KBrandsma
  12. Yes, disconnect the negative connection of the battery, install the MAF and then re-connect battery. The DME will reset/relearn with the new MAF.
  13. Great, thanks! Looking forward to hearing from you.
  14. Interesting, I have never seen the two related in researching. I recently commented on the following thread, so you have me intrigued. Are these related? http://www.renntech....ine-with-video/ I have the same two codes and my Secondary Air Pump is not operating. I checked the 40 AMP fuse in rear trunk and the fuse was blown. I won't get a chance to explore further until this weekend.
  15. Depending on the version of the Durametric Software program, it has a "Drive Link" or "Activations" sub-menu. I'm trying to activate my secondary air pump. I noticed it's on their website screen shots but not available in the actual program. Has anyone ever used this function?
  16. With a 1128 and 1130 code do you have any issues with your Secondary Air Pump?
  17. Remove the connection at the AMP and connect rear speakers to a nine volt battery. If wiring is good you should hear a crackling sound in the rear speakers. Check your fade button on the head unit. Have you had ignition problems? Sometimes a failing ignition switch does quirky things to the radio controls (balance/fade) Good luck!
  18. Don't forget a new and louder horn. The Italian Horns are a good option.
  19. I recently added a third radiator, 150 dgree thermostat and a new waterpump to my 98 Boxster. I replaced the old coolant with original Porsche Antifreeze from Sunset. It was reddish pink when mixed. The old fluid was yellow. Both are ok. The part number is: 000-043-301-05 The cost was $21.07/gallon at Sunset Poesche a 50/50 mixture with distilled water provides protection to -34F or -37C Here is a link to Mike Fock's Web page on antifreeze replacement where he talks about other alternatives than Porsche Antifreeze. Mike Fock's Webpage Regardless of your replacement coolant, getting all the old fluid out is difficult as you will have old antifreeze in radiators and hoses and this is sometmes difficult to get all the old fluid out. I purchased a UView Airlift Tool (Whiz-bang vacuum device) to add my replacement coolant as JFP suggests. I've used it once. PM if you would like to borrow it. Also, reading Loren's DIY article on adding a third radiatior is useful , as he talks about how to remove air from the system by leaving the bleed valve open. Here is the link to Loren's DIY. 3rd Radiator DIY Happy New Year and good luck!
  20. Sorry...Been offline a couple days...I will look it up and post soon. DC OK Guys, Sorry I was busy last week. Here is a link to one of the connections mentioned. Once on this site, you can easily poke around for different connectors that may fit your application. Also an opportunity for research on the application of these connectors on their site. Prices seemed reasonable to me, and I had one on a previous car and worked perfectly. Click Here Good luck! DC Perfect! Thank you!
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