kbrandsma

It is OK to drive your car. You can drive your car with a CEL light on continuously as long as it is not flashing.

Here is a link to a thread with some photos that may be of some help. Press HERE for thread! Note: On the Boxster M490 Hi-Fi Sound Option, any rear speakers plug into the radio HU

Here is a list of the parts needed and the price I paid. All available from Jeff at Sunset Porsche. 1) 996-613-219-10 EWC 4 coulmn switch - $166.29 2) 999-650-513-40 Plug Socket (for wiring harness) - $2.86 3) 000-979-009 VW Wiring Set (5 of them) - $13.05 4) 993-552-573-01-01C Steering Wheel Switch Cover (additional opening for 4th stalk on Left hand side) - $6.06 The Durametric Enthusiast serves 3 vehicles while the Professional kit serves as many cars as you want. Here is also a LINK with addirional information.

I left the key out of the ignition (don't think it matters) and just connect and re-connect each connection a couple of times. Reset the codes and see what happens. If you want to become a "Contributing Member", you can also check the TSB's (Service Bulletins) under the DIY Menu above and check 986 Current TSB's Bulletin # 2469 - Oxygen Sensor Connections. Good luck!

I left the key out of the ignition (don't think it matters) and just connect and re-connect a couple of times. Reset the codes and see what happens.

I haven't decided yet as to re-install the front plate or not. It is illegal in the State of Washington not to have one. Some keep their front plate in the passenger footwell and supposedly move it to the dash/windshield should they get stopped. I'm not sure how that is going to work?

Large caps can be found throughout the vehicle. If you remove the trunk liners in front and back you will find several more. I am not sure what the hole in the wheel liner is for. Did the PO drill it? PO??? Port of Origin, Entry??? Anyhow, I don't know. Have only had dealers do reg. mtnc and a little warranty work. 1 non dealer tire change and brake flush. Sorry PO = previous owner

Large caps can be found throughout the vehicle. If you remove the trunk liners in front and back you will find several more. I am not sure what the hole in the wheel liner is for. Did the PO drill it?

The parts fit perfectly. Here is a picture of the installation before the new bumper was installed. And here is a photo after the center radiator was in place and the new bumber installed. More info can be found HERE at this thread! Thanks for your help Loren!

I looked at Pedro's site but decided on purchasing the entire KIT with hoses and speed nuts etc. I purchased this 3rd radiator KIT from Sunset. Part no: 000-044-100-14 List Price - $516.61 Sunset price - $406.96 This KIT was for a GT3 Bumper. Depending on the bumper, a KIT might be different. The good folks at Sunset will help. The installation was quite simple and straight forward. I used Loren's post for that. Loren's DIY Link is HERE I also added the Italian Air horns as mentioned on other posts by Loren and installed them above the center radiator. Here is a photo of the Airhorns after installation. I used the PET diagram for parts and ordered all new attachment hardware from Sunset. Here is a Link to a previous thread that tells more. Loren as usual was extremely helpful. Thanks Loren!

I received the new painted GT3 Bumper back from the paint shop today. I also had them repaint the hood, the little piece that covers the rear spoiler and some speed humps I found on Craigslist over the winter. I finished installing the third center radiator and cleaned up the side radiators and AC condensors as well as the air scoops and front wheel liners. I checked the system for leaks using the Airlift tool from Uview and refilled the car with 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture. Here are some photos of the finished center radiator after the installation. Here is the before picture with the stock OEM bumber. Here is the new bumper primed but not painted yet Here are the photos after installing the new bumper

You should search for OBC (On Board Computer) hack. About 8 pages of results... http://www.renntech....showtopic=19446 Thank for this Loren. Looks like the needed info is scattered about. Nothing on whether or not the any of the Durametric kits will allow OBC turn on though. Perhaps I'll post a separate query on that. Thanks again. 2seatcollector The newer Durametric is capable of turning on the OBC.

I replaced the water pump and installed the TSTAT 160 today. The water pump has seven bolts and two of the bolts are slightly longer than the other five. The bolts at 3 and 10 o'clock are the longer ones. Bolts are tightened to 7 ft-lbs. Photo below shows improved design. Less plastic and more metal in the turbine. I installed the pump from inside the cabin. With 2 bolts removed from underneath. I removed the passenger seat and opened the engine access panel behind the seats. Read Pedro's garage for some additional info and another way to remove the water pump from below the vehicle. I decided not to follow that route. I also replaced the serpintine belt at the same time. Here is another shot of the new water pump. I also installed the LN Engineering T160 termostat. Everything inside engine was pristine clear as you can see from the photo below. There are four bolts and was very easy to install. I also replaced several hoses and clamps. The three I replaced are the main ones that leave the engine; TSTAT hose (1 Y that connects to a couple of smaller hoses) and the two main hoses that route to the radiators up front. Here is a shot of the TSTAT 160 and the OEM one. I also clean the engine compartment. I followed Orient Express's lead and used a spray bottle with 1/4 Simple Green and 3/4 water. I sprayed then let it soaked. Rinse and sprayed again. Then used a couple of terry cloths and wiped everything reachable downed. Sprayed again and repeat. Just like your hair shampoo.

Did you use any electrical spray on the O2 connections. Porsche recommends not to. To clean the connections they recommend connecting and reconnecting a couple of time. I had codes P1115 P1117 P1119 P1121 after purchasing new O2 ans tried the connecting and reconnecting thing and it seemed to do the trick.

I changed my entire switch several months ago and removed the gauges and the steering wheel cover. It was and additional 8 screws and made it extremely simple.

I installed the oil heat exchanger today. It took four O rings. The green ones are the smaller ones part # 999-707-409-40-M17 The black ones are larger and came in a package of 4 but only 2 were needed, part #999-707-389-40-M100 You can see the difference between the 986 oil heat exchanger and the 986S one. To install you have to: Drain water from engine block I drained my oil and changed the oil filter Place top in service position Open engine compartment Remove air tube from throttle body and air box Remove J tube Detach throttle body and place aside (good time to clean it) Take care in removing vacuum tubes one on each side Remove oil heat exchanger - 4 torx screws Replace O rings Install new 986S oil heat exchanger (tighten to 7lbs torque) Installation is the reverse of removal fill radiator fill oil Finished installation

I am installing the oil heat exchanger today!

K: How many O-rings are needed for the conversion to the "S" oil cooler? Part numbers? Regards, Maurice. Seven (7) total parts ordered. I'll know more after I finish the install. 996-107-025-57-M6 - Oil Heat Exchanger - $ 151.75 999-707-409-40-M17 - Rubber o-ring - .75 each - 2 needed - $1.50 total 999-707-389-40-M100 - Rubber o-ring - $1.00 each - 4 needed - $4.00 total I hope this helps!

Hi, You can request security codes for radios on Renntech only on a certain thread/place. You can post your request here which is a link to that thread.

Yes, I changed my serp belt myself at 62K . I might just do the waterpump and serp belt again while I'm at it. Anybody have any thoughts on changing the waterpump with 82,000 miles as preventative maintenance?

I live in Washington State. Around Seattle the temp is very moderate, however I take several road trips into Eastern Washington where temps last summer around Lake Chelan reached 107 degrees. I don't track my car and the more I looked into it I just thought it was a great mod.

There should be no flush needed, but you will need a new o-ring for the coolant drain plug (fifty cent item) and a dab of anti seize to put on the plug threads before you re torque it. Check the condition of your water pump; you will need to drain the system all over again if it craps out 5 min. after you do your upgrades. As you have a 5 speed car, you can also upgrade to the "S" oil cooler which is about twice the size of the base unit, and is a simple bolt in swap for about $200 or so (parts at retail). The larger cooler is one of the biggest bang for the buck mods you can do for a base car..... Oil heat Exchanger Found one at Pelican Parts part number: 996.107.025.57 price: $151.75 plus shipping I ordered the O rings as well. The next best price was $250.00 plus at Sunset, special order with a 1 week wait.

Great write-up. I accessed the top bolt from inside the engine compartment. I had removed my air tube from the air filter box to the throttle body to give the TB a good cleaning. With this black tube removed you can access the upper bolt from above.

I am doing a little spring work on my 98 5 speed Boxster. I am upgrading my OEM front bumper to a GT3 bumper. I also plan to add the third radiator and the 160F low temperature thermostat by LN Engineering. My Pcar has 82 K on the clock and I thought while I had everything apart I would also replace my antifreeze. My question is there a recommended radiator flush to perform, hoses/clamps, drain plug to replace, or even replacing the water pump as preventative maintenance while I had most of the water/antifreeze out?

Loren, Can you install the Griot's Air Horn in the same location even with a 3rd radiator?