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I believe at some point I saw instructions posted, perhaps under tutorials, for a simple bypass of the emergency brake lockout that prevent the top from being raised or lowered with the car is motion. The bypass instructions included a making a jumper wire. Can't seem to find this with a search, but perhaps someone here knows it's location.
I'm trying to remove the heater control on my 2002 986, so I can replace the malfunctioning LCD. Since the failure of these older LCDs (the radio has the same issues) is such a common problem, I thought there might be a tutorial here, to review, before I go prying away at the dash. But I haven't been able to find one by doing a simple "Heater Control Removal" search. Can anyone enlighten me with a link or the smoothest removal procedure? Spring is almost here, so I need to fix this for driving! Also looking for the easiest way to replace the partly defective display on the Becker Radio LCD. The 2002 has the security radio with the plug-in display, so at least this is easy to remove. Wondering if anyone has had a successful repair done on their Becker radio display, for less than an arm and a leg? Thanks!
For those Cabriolet owners with older plastic windows that are clouded, stained or scratched, I have a recommendation for some simple, inexpensive hope-in-a-bottle. Having read all the posts I could find here on RennTech, and then followed up by reading about the various products on the manufacturer or distributor web sites, which included products with three steps, products that only came in entire roof refurb kits, and products that cost too much, I moved on to a broader market research of vinyl window cleaners. The boating and camper industries use these sorts of polishes or cleaners far more than we Porsche owners, so Marine and Camper sites have lots of product information and formulations too. For me the outcome was this: Vinyl top cleaners are simply a protectant lotion of some sort, with a very mild abrasive. So many of them might be quite good. In the end I settled on trying a Meguiar's product - car specific, with a solid reputation for good, affordable detailing products. On a whim, not wanting to wait for shipping, I called my local NAPA shop. They had Meguiar's PlastX cleaner/polish in stock. Price, $6.49 for a 10 oz bottle. This is a multi-use product that claims useability for covertible windows, headlights, plexiglass surfaces, and, yes, even scratched CD surfaces!? http://www.meguiarsd...tail/MEG+G12310 The rear window on my 2002 Boxster S was not just clouded lightly, it also had vague shadows of paint residue on the outside (like the white paint car dealers use to paint prices on windows or white shoe polish used for a Just Married announcement?), and grundge on the inside near the corners (looked almost like someone had taped something on the vinyl and left the tape residue to decay. The window wasn't horrible, but it wasn't pretty either, while the rest of my low mileage Lapis Lazuli vehicle fairly gleamed. So the less-than perfect window was an irritant I had gotten tired of looking at. I wasn't expecting miracles from my $6.49 bottle of Meguiar's PlastX, but that's just about what I got. The polishing of the rear window exterior had instant effect. A moistened mini-towel (try a rinsed, damp, baby wipe for this) and some elbow grease had the first layer of film off in a jiffy. The second layer of grundge, the white paint residue, took some extra effort, but to my surprise this came off too. ALL of it! Then I set to work on nicks and on the folded top, driving vibration scuffs. These too polished out! What was even more surprising, and satisfying was that rather than smearing or caking, the PlastX product seemed to absorb into the vinyl, much the way good skin lotions restore chapped hands in the winter. The inside of the window had some especially tough residues which, given the success on the exterior, I was now determined to remove completely. The entire job took about 1:20, and I did drip sweat from my forehead. I recommend pushing the seats all the way forward, and mounting the hump (so to speak) to get at the rear interior of the window effectively. The results are nothing less that stunning. I used to wish I had a glass window, circa 2003 on, but now I'm so thrilled with the plastic that I'm reveling in its larger size. The thing shines enough to reflect the garage lights from above! An added bonus - I was able to use the PlastX to polish the plexiglass rear windstopper which had a few scratches in it. Many of these came out. What's next, my CD collection? PlastX is also used as a finishing polish for refurbishing clouded plastic headlamp lenses, a task for which Maguiar's has a number of how to videos on their web site. But try PlastX on your Cabriolet vinyl window! For $6.49 from my NAPA shop, I can't recommend this fix enough. - 2seatcollector
Thanks for the tip! I had already run through headlight switch functions, under the same suspicion you suggest. All lamps function as they should. If the instrument light ambient light sensor is the issue, can it be replaced? (I've seen on 911 and Boxster forums how expensive instrument cluster replacement can be!) - 2seatcollector
SEE SOLUTION TO PROBLEM AS CARRIED OUT AFTER THIS POST BELOW On taking my 2002 Boxster S out after winter storage (at night), I noticed that although the main instrument functions light up bright as usual, the background or perimeter instrument lights did not. After pulling out onto the driveway the instrument lights came on, and all was well. But then I started testing them and found they don't always turn on. In fact, if they are on, and I turn the headlights on and off, the instrument perimeter lights go off. They do eventually come on, and seem to stay on once on, provided no other action is taken, such as turning the ignition on or off, or messing with the main light switch. The little perimeter light dimmer knob on the instrument cluster works perfectly, once the lights are on. I did do a on-board computer/four-stalk hack last autumn (works perfectly, thanks to this forum and instructions), and run a trickle charger on the car - but I don't see these as being linked to the issue. I've checked all the pins on the instrument cluster plugs and sprayed them with light contact cleaner. They seem fine. So, I'm thinking the problem is either a relay issue, or the "Light sensor for instrument illumination" (number 9 ID on page 66 of Boxster 2002 manual) which is apparently located behind a little dot on the tachometer near the redline point. I've searched the site and find no other threads on this. Can the sensor be replaced by accessing the interior of the instrument cluster (which I see seems fairly simple)? Has anyone perhaps encountered a similar issue and resolved it? Again, the main LED instrument readings work, the yellow adjustable perimeter lights are intermittent in starting up. Thanks again for this forum, and special thanks to Loren, who often offers wise perspectives on all things Porsche. This site has accellerated my knowledge ramp up for DYI. After years of working on Saab Sonnets (I've owned four - and still have a cherry, no-rust, 1974), and my Chrysler daily drivers, it is nice to have help for complicate and simple fixes and mods. Over all a terrific support network that makes me think I should buy a 911 Turbo, instead of the Ferrari F360 I've been considering. 2seatcollector ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ OK, so after reading posts and Loren's advice below, I priced the headlight switch at $90.00. No Durametric tester in my possession, but further info from Phil at Sunset Porsche concurred with Loren, that the switch was the likely culprit. So I removed the switch, using instructions from another post in the Forum on this site (the instructions for releasing the control knob are misleading and confusing, with the graphic showing a monster screwdriver wedged up towards the light switch control knob, when if fact all that's needed is the tip of a paper clip or jewler's screwdriver pushed directly UP, not diagonally in). I liberally applied Radio Shack contact cleaner to the center of the switch and the interior rim and worked the switch a bit. The switch is sealed, so little fluid comes out. So I put the knob mandrel inside a shop vac nozzle and let her rip, to extricate excess contact cleaner fluid. I can't imagine any dust inside the switch because of it being sealed. On re-install, the secondary dash and various control lights worked again, immediately. So, hundreds saved again by RennTech.org, Radio Shack contact cleaner, and me. I can just imagine what a dealer solution would have been - replace the switch at a minimum of $250 parts and labor. $250 I'd rather put in the piggy bank for a used 911 Turbo. 2seatcollector.
Thanks to all for posting the OBC Hack information and to Loren for directing me to the links. I was reviewing the comprehensive D2 Performance instuctions before starting the little project and noticed there are no instructions for the wiring of the harness itself (the D2 step-by-step mentions wiring instructions, but there are none there, nor a link). Even worse, everyone refers to a 5 wire harness. Suncoast sent me all the necessary parts as a kit, and included three long yellow wires for a harness, and the little black six position clip. Six positions, three wires and everyone talking about five wires? So I'm at a loss for the wiring. I don't want to pull the wheel and all the ancillary parts without a wiring harness ready to go (can't do without driving my Boxster for a week, especially with sunny and 70 projected on Monday!). Does anyone have detailed information on the wiring harness configuration. I see a list of wiring points for a 2000, but I have a 2002, and Suncoast who have sent me only three wires is usually on target with their parts advice. Perhaps my 2002 only needs three wires? Plus which of the six positions on the clip might be the right ones? Any advice on this would be most appreciated! Mike - 2seatcollector
You should search for OBC (On Board Computer) hack. About 8 pages of results... http://www.renntech....showtopic=19446 Thank for this Loren. Looks like the needed info is scattered about. Nothing on whether or not the any of the Durametric kits will allow OBC turn on though. Perhaps I'll post a separate query on that. Thanks again. 2seatcollector
Spring is here, so I must do the labor. A teeny plastic retention nub broke off and popped out of my 2002 Boxster turn signal in fall. When I asked Sunset Imports (truly a great help) if I could add the trip computer by replacing the broken three-stalk instrument module with the four stalk (a few bucks more), they said yes, compiled the list of extra parts and sent them to me. They also suggested that the instructions for this relatively easy DIY were somewhere here on RennTech. I have searched, to no avail, but I may be looking in the wrong spot. Any help would be appreciated. Also, does anyone know if the Durametric systems for the Boxster will allow user activation of the computer to stalk interface (thereby saving me the trouble and expense of visiting the local not-so-smart dealership)? Durametric tutorials seem more focused on diagnostics than systems manipulation. Thanks in advance for any good advice here! 2 seatcollector