kbrandsma

In your case I don't think this would be a good test. If the middle tube is damaged there will be no back pressure to test. I don't think it matters if the engine is running or not, you can check it right after you cut the engine. You may see the tube collapse if it is real bad even with the engine running I suppose. I've never seen that however and I am only guessing. Here is another thread that might be interesting to you. Check the thread here. Good Luck! K.Brandsma 98 Porsche

The mesh sock is normally located between the accordian elbow and the spring clip on the middle oil fill tub. It is usually about 8-12 inches long. I can't tell if it is missing on your first picture or more than likely it is just completely saturated with oil+dirt. If I want to correct this problem since it does not sound normal, I should change my AOS, middle oil fill tube, and mesh sock? Thanks for all the replies. That sounds about right. Be careful in removing the middle oil tube so you don't break the ears off of the forward tube as well. Make sure the forward tube hasn’t cracked as well, but it is usually strong enough to withstand the pressure. If it is cracked a new forward piece would need to be ordered and installed. Lots of good info on replacing the AOS check out Mike Flocke's site here. You should also check your j-tube that connects the AOS to the throttle body and see if oil is in that tube. Make sure it is not cracked or damaged as well. You may need to remove it and clean it thoroughly to determine that it is ok. A new AOS may require a new j-tube. Ask the dealer when ordering. I got mine at Sunset, for about AOS $90.00, J-tube $22.00 plus shipping. I have a 98 - 5 speed with 52K on the clock. And they checked my VIN # to determine that I also needed a new J-tube. I would definitely invest in a pair of Craftsman's clamp pliers. The back clamp by the trunk on the middle oil filler tube is tough to get at but not impossible. Since you will be replacing it, once it arrives some people remove it in pieces. (like cutting it at the elbow). They do the same thing with the AOS and the bellows. A new AOS comes with a new bellows and one spring clamp. I would replace the lower clamp with a screw clamp on the bellows. It will be much easier to install Before the oil filler tube collapses you could have also checked to see if pressure kept you from opening the oil fill cap in the rear trunk. A good sign besides white smoke that your AOS is failing. Good luck!

The mesh sock is normally located between the accordian elbow and the spring clip on the middle oil fill tube. It is usually about 8-12 inches long. I can't tell if it is missing on your first picture or more than likely it is just completely saturated with oil+dirt.

The pipe covered in oil is the middle oil fill pipe. I recently replaced mine. When your AOS goes bad it can cause a vacuum in the oil fill tubes (collapse and expand) and eventually crack them. I'm not sure if that is what happened in your case. Heres a link to a recent thread on 986forum. http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15127 It looks like you will also need a new mesh sock. Good luck and keep us posted.

I have a 98 5 speed and the bracket is also used to support the engine from up above when the transaxle is dropped to replace the clutch and flywheel and also to replace the RMS and IMS. It also provides a support for the little ear that protrudes from the intake tube that connects the air filter and the throttle body. This is the same intake tube that connects to the MAS. I recently had to reinstall the intake tube and found it real easy once I removed the bracket totally and then reinstalled it once the tube was in place.

I cleared the codes and unplugged and replugged the rear O2 sensors. I'll drive it and see if the codes reappear, I'll get back to you!

The O2 sensors were new Walker's 13806. The exact codes I received were P1117 and P1121. The following codes were pending P1115 and P1119.

I'll need to pop off the engine cover and take a look. Should be able to get to it on Saturday. Any ideas? It wouldn't be vacuum hoses that I spliced back together? I also was replacing my RMS and had removed the exhaust system to drop the tranny. While I had everything disconnected I also replaced O2 sensors.

Got it all back together and threw a few CEL codes after about 50 miles. The codes are P1115, P1119, P1117 and P1121. Any ideas?

thanks, todd. i take it the torque spec on the pulley bolt is such that it won't loosen when i back out the fw bolts? I used fifty cents of 10 gauge electrical wire I had to hold the flywheel. I saw this on a BMW site and it worked by cinching the wire to the three pins on the fly wheel. The bolts are those that were taken from the bell housing to engine block.

Thanks for your help. Here is where it is coming from. You can see it got mangled and actually separated. and here is where it is going to. I purchased some vacuum tubing from Autozone and fixed the tube with a splice. K. Brandsma 98 Boxster

I'm replacing my oil filler tube that leads from the trunk all the way to the engine block. The tube is actually two tubes and they connect right below the throttle body on passenger side. To get to the oil filler tube piece that mounts to the engine block, I had to remove the trottle body and the the round intake tube connected to the throttle body. I loosen the large four screw clamps and two bolts and disconnected the large intake tube from both manifolds and set them with the throttle body still attached aside. While I was working on removing the screws that holds the oil filler tube to the block I noticed what appears to be a thin vacuum hose of some typye that was free and disconnected. The thin hose is a bit mangled and most likely will need to be replaced. I need help with two questions: 1. Anyone know the name of this tube? and 2. Where does it connect to? Thanks in advance. K. Brandsma 98 Porsche

Tool Pants, The screws on the tool look like they can be used to adjust the depth. How does that work? The inside looks like they are rounded off. Does the tool turn and ensure the RMS is positioned equally all-around? Has anyone successfully created their own tool or found a place to purchase? Good thread, thanks for doing it. K.Brandsma '98 Porsche Everett, WA

I'm replacing my oil filler tube and was wondering about connection in the trunk? Or is the connection that leads to the trunk at the engine side of the firewall? Thanks! K. Brandsma 98 Boxster

How did the 4" PVC connector and end cap work? Any pictures? Thanks! K. Brandsma '98 Porsche

Could a loose bellows clamp have caused it?

Thanks for your observations. Oil on Cyl bank 2 appears to be fresh oil. Checked service records from previous owner. He had replaced the bellows 4K miles ago. Retightened bellows as the screw clamps had worked their way loose. I hope that was it. Anyone else have thoughts on this matter.

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Tell me more about what you see with the AOS. Link to more photos http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii302/k...mview=slideshow password: guest Thanks!

I am replacing my RMS and I stripped the last bolt which was the 10 mm triple square (bottom one on driver's side). What a bear. I drilled one side off, then ended up using my Dremmel and cut of the nut as close as possible then I grinded the rest of the nut off. RMS photos below: Going to also replace the clutch, change tranny and engine oil and also O2 sensors while I am at it. Have 52K on the clock and figured I would take care of a few things while I have it up and taken apart. What is the best way to remove the old RMS seal? K. Brandsma Everett, Washington 98 Boxster

Can you give additional information on how you bracketed the dash speakers with plastic melt? I am upgrading my front speakers. Thanks! K. Brandsma '98 Boxster

I recently ordered the brown speaker plug from Continental Imports. It should arrive in the next several days. I'm not sure of the grills but would be ineterested if you locate them. Thanks! K. Brandsma Everett, WA 98 Boxster http://www.continentalimports.com/becker.html