Benjamin Choi

I've seen a couple of reports recently where battery looked good but really had a dead cell. New battery solved the problems. Anyway for you to really get a good test of battery? I hope it's the battery and not the starter. :)

I've got two issues popping up with a new one this evening: 1) Car more frequently now than before doesn't start on the morning first-start crank. All the electrics light up and the battery looks to be holding voltage at about 12.3 (per my search), but try to fire and it does nothing. I need to do this several times sometimes and it's an annoyance. Clutch switch? Who knows. When driving, seems to hold just under the 14 mark so it doesn't sound like it's the battery? 2) Just this evening after I've been driving around a bit I go to start the car. Very slow to crank. Had to try a couple of times to get the engine to turn over. Starter motor? Ignition switch? Not sure, but it's just been feeling like the car's slower to crank or the crank isn't as full of alacrity as in the past? Thoughts? Many thx. I'm gonna get these things handled now. Annoyances.

Budget is certainly not the issue, as you may recall from past exchanges, Ben. And deciding to stay with factory springs and sways does not equal going "bits and pieces". "Best option for the street" isn't helpful, but thank you. What "best" and which "street" are the key questions for suspension choices if you really care about performance. Of course I remember that of course budget is not an issue for ya. That's why we're all still driving 996s and especially for you, an MK1 996 with the beloved Boxster headilghts that receives all-season beating. And what of performance? Aside from getting responses like "this worked great for me," trying to come to some sort of meaningful suspension/handling conclusion around "performance," especially over the internet, is a sisyphean challenge. My point is, all these options will be just fine for the daily 911: ROW M030, Bilstein shocks with OEM springs, PSS9s, etc. For those on a budget, go with the new aftermarket shocks with factory springs options. If you have more money to spend, PSS9s are a no brainer. If you have no budget, then heck handle your business and go for a full Moton setup. Thx for reading, buddy. :) You keep skipping past the part where I don't want to lower the car. then don't? BruceP was clear from his first post "I don't want to lower the car, and I don't want to radically stiffen the ride." Please keep this on topic - and not personal in your remarks. Thanks. PSS9s meet both those requirements and if there is no budget then PSS9s give you the ability to go even softer than matching aftermarket shocks with stock springs. If not for Bruce, I'm certainly speaking for others who may run into this very same thread/predicament. If they're on a budget, sure, go with the shocks. Loren, I'm not clear how I'm being personal here and not on-topic. Respectfully, Ben Ben, PSS 9s lower the car. I am more than aware of the history between you two - keep it civil and not condescending. This thread is not an argument or a battle of preferences between two people - BruceP asked for suggestions - you have made your suggestions - move on. All I'm saying is, PSS9s are adjustable meaning you don't have to lower your car. Heck, you can increase the height if you want for SUV level practicality in the urban jungle that is Toronto (lovely city).

Budget is certainly not the issue, as you may recall from past exchanges, Ben. And deciding to stay with factory springs and sways does not equal going "bits and pieces". "Best option for the street" isn't helpful, but thank you. What "best" and which "street" are the key questions for suspension choices if you really care about performance. Of course I remember that of course budget is not an issue for ya. That's why we're all still driving 996s and especially for you, an MK1 996 with the beloved Boxster headilghts that receives all-season beating. And what of performance? Aside from getting responses like "this worked great for me," trying to come to some sort of meaningful suspension/handling conclusion around "performance," especially over the internet, is a sisyphean challenge. My point is, all these options will be just fine for the daily 911: ROW M030, Bilstein shocks with OEM springs, PSS9s, etc. For those on a budget, go with the new aftermarket shocks with factory springs options. If you have more money to spend, PSS9s are a no brainer. If you have no budget, then heck handle your business and go for a full Moton setup. Thx for reading, buddy. :) You keep skipping past the part where I don't want to lower the car. then don't? BruceP was clear from his first post "I don't want to lower the car, and I don't want to radically stiffen the ride." Please keep this on topic - and not personal in your remarks. Thanks. PSS9s meet both those requirements and if there is no budget then PSS9s give you the ability to go even softer than matching aftermarket shocks with stock springs. If not for Bruce, I'm certainly speaking for others who may run into this very same thread/predicament. If they're on a budget, sure, go with the shocks. Loren, I'm not clear how I'm being personal here and not on-topic. Respectfully, Ben

Budget is certainly not the issue, as you may recall from past exchanges, Ben. And deciding to stay with factory springs and sways does not equal going "bits and pieces". "Best option for the street" isn't helpful, but thank you. What "best" and which "street" are the key questions for suspension choices if you really care about performance. Of course I remember that of course budget is not an issue for ya. That's why we're all still driving 996s and especially for you, an MK1 996 with the beloved Boxster headilghts that receives all-season beating. And what of performance? Aside from getting responses like "this worked great for me," trying to come to some sort of meaningful suspension/handling conclusion around "performance," especially over the internet, is a sisyphean challenge. My point is, all these options will be just fine for the daily 911: ROW M030, Bilstein shocks with OEM springs, PSS9s, etc. For those on a budget, go with the new aftermarket shocks with factory springs options. If you have more money to spend, PSS9s are a no brainer. If you have no budget, then heck handle your business and go for a full Moton setup. Thx for reading, buddy. :) You keep skipping past the part where I don't want to lower the car. then don't?

Budget is certainly not the issue, as you may recall from past exchanges, Ben. And deciding to stay with factory springs and sways does not equal going "bits and pieces". "Best option for the street" isn't helpful, but thank you. What "best" and which "street" are the key questions for suspension choices if you really care about performance. Of course I remember that of course budget is not an issue for ya. That's why we're all still driving 996s and especially for you, an MK1 996 with the beloved Boxster headilghts that receives all-season beating. And what of performance? Aside from getting responses like "this worked great for me," trying to come to some sort of meaningful suspension/handling conclusion around "performance," especially over the internet, is a sisyphean challenge. My point is, all these options will be just fine for the daily 911: ROW M030, Bilstein shocks with OEM springs, PSS9s, etc. For those on a budget, go with the new aftermarket shocks with factory springs options. If you have more money to spend, PSS9s are a no brainer. If you have no budget, then heck handle your business and go for a full Moton setup. Thx for reading, buddy. :)

Just get PSS9s and call it at day. Adjust it all you want. It's the best option for the street. Better than factory X kits. But it may be out of your budget since it sounds like you want to go bits and pieces which I wouldn't recommend. Hi, Bruce.

I went through this a while back myself. The conclusions I came to are that the only body kits that have good fitment cost as much or more than OEM. If you look hard you can find some deals on the OEM aerokits. I wound up buying the Carrera Aerokit for the cab that included front spoiler, rear spoiler, side skirts and rear GT tabs. I found the kit on sale for around $2,700 (less shipping which I think was around $400). I have not gotten around to install yet, but got a quote from the body shop that does the local dealers work including paint and install for $2,000. I figured that even if OEM is slightly more expensive, resell will be higher and you are dealing with a kit that Porsche has balanced. Hope this helps. That's great advice. For the narrowbody 911s, there aren't too many good, complete options... actually there is ONE good option in the aftermarket (Ruf) so if I had one, I'd def go all OEM aero. It's simply the best look. AsianImage has a great looking MK1 996 cab lowered on some Champion 19" wheels. For the MK2 narrowbody, I'd spring for the Cargraphic front lip, OEM GT3 side and rear spoilers. Super sweet aesthetic. Techart has some front pieces as well, but their kit just doesn't look right on the narrows. OEM is that much better for similar prices. Asking for a nicely fitting, good quality aftermarket aerokit for less than OEM prices is like asking for a super sticky street tire that lasts long and is mid to low tier pricing. It just doesn't exist. You get one or the other. You pay to play.

Just go to a reputable Porsche dealer and get a warranty thru them. That's what I did.

But I promise you I really don't drive like a wu$$. If shifting at 3-4K is lugging the engine, well, then I'm guilty as charged. :D

Ben, I have experienced the same type of noise in my Saab Aero and found it was the plugs needing replacement. The car manual said I could use regular as well and I tried mid-grade as well as premium ( Chevron as well) and still had the noise until the plugs were replaced after only 15K miles. Never had the the problem in my 02 C4S running Chevron premium fuel FWIW. How many miles does your current plugs have on them?? Good Luck!! Dave :cheers: My plugs have to be less than 5K miles old. OEM. It may be called "detonation". As you can tell, I'm no engineer.

Clutch and flywheel are only 5K miles old. Engine mount is new for the heckuvit. The noise is like clack clack noise and usually accompanied as a set of two or three or four really quick clacks and goes away.

Often when I'm going up a hill, applying throttle at say 25mph in 2nd gear, I get an engine knocking noise that's very sharp like a metal-on-metal noise. Tap-tap-tap. My indy and dealer confirmed that the noise is engine knock. I can reproduce it on this local stretch of road near my home. It happens at lower revs and when I apply the throttle say after a shift from 2nd into 3rd. Less so on the 1 to 2 shift since I usually shift at higher revs (4K ish). I've never been able to reproduce the metal tap noise with aggressive shifts at higher rpms whether it's WOT or partial. I run premium fuel all the time no doubt. Chevron or Shell here in Seattle. I asked them if this is something that I should be concerned about (wear and tear) and both places said not so necessarily so, just keep driving and keep the revs up. Is it Seattle fuel, my particular engine, or what? I'd rather not have this noise. Running race gas to mix is impractical for me. I have a life outside of my car so going out of my way for it is just plain nonsensical. Based on my search, it looks like it's none too common with the M96, though I have heard of another local M97 owner experiencing the same thing. I want to just enjoy the drive with peace of mind. Thoughts?

go for it man as it'll make the car less audi-ish. cost cutting measures. the biggest transformation will certainly be the wheels, but don't do it if you're not going to lower the car. good to hear from you, chief.

don't paint it, powdercoat it

i run similar offset setup with bvillen wheels i get this strange creak at low turning speeds though. drives me nuts. if it's not one thing it's another. should have taken my cousin's offer to tune it... i know what you mean. doesn't sound like it's the wheels, but suspension. what are your exact wheel/tire specs?

It's called bad camera phone under fluorescent shop lighting. :D Thx, man.

I use calculators, too, but mine is real life driven testimony. I hope it helps just even one person to make my post meaningful.

I've researched all the forums and found it difficult to come up with a tried and true offset listing of what works and what doesn't on the 996 C4S/Turbo. Maybe my search skillz need more help, but just thought I'd share what I learned. From my many years of buying aftermarket wheels, I'd say a good 90% of the wheels I see on cars are ill-fitting. Let me define that for me, a good fitting wheel meets the following conditions: 1) goes as wide as possible as the stock body allows; 2) does not rub at stock height or aggressively lowered on adjustable coilovers; and 3) accommodates readily available, common tire sizes. So far with my C4S, I've run through three sets of wheels. First, the OZ Superleggera 3s. Second, Work Brombachers. Currently running OZ Superleggera 3s. The fronts are pretty easy to figure out because you have more width options. You can run 8s or 8.5s all day. For all three setups, I'm running a 19x8.5 wheel with an offset at either +45 or +46 combined with both PS2s and Conti SportContact3s. PS2s, you should know, tend to have an pretty wide section width relative to its competitors so understand that you have a greater chance of rubbing than the narrower Continentals or Bridgestones. Check your manufacturer. Now with the rears, I've always chosen the 12" width. Why? Steamrollers, baby! I also always picked the 315/25/19s because it won't mess up the awd system combined with the 235/35 tires up front. These tire sizes are very common for the 996 widebody crowd running aftermarket wheels. Now when you read up on threads, people share the width of the wheel, maybe the tire sizes, certainly the diameter, but rarely offsets which is absolutely critical! You need to know all these things to make an informed wheel spec decision. What's worked of me to date, if you're into running wide rears for that awesome bulldog stance look to further accentuate that wide butt, are 19x12s with the 315 tires, but make sure that the offset in the rear is no lower than +45 (e.g. +44). The lower the number, the further the rim will push to the outside. I can attest on my own setup lowered aggressively on PSS9s that a +45 offset on 19x12 wheels work just fine combined with the extra balloony Michelin PS2 tires. My Work Brombachers had these specs and they worked beautifuly - pushed right to the edge, lowered, but 0 rubbage under full compression. It's a beautiful thing in motion, in person. My current OZ 3s feature a +46 so it's an even more conservative fitment (relatively speaking). Both have a 3.5" lip which look huge. My first OZ 3s were silver with a 3" lip. A 3.5" lip was not available at the time. I'm assuming you're running stock brakes. I'd like to thank Alan Baylis at Wheel Enhancement for the perfect Work wheels and Peter at Wheelexperts for his continued help with any and all questions I've thrown at him even if I've never bought a thing from him. Most of all a huge thanks to Damon @ Tirerack for his tireless customer service. Tirerack did a great job of measuring out the 996 widebody fenders to ensure maximum deep dish visual delight without sacrificing virgin fenders. These guys know their wheels/tires!

http://modderman.com/

Let it be. It only looks good on the 997 MK2. Just having LED in the rears doesn't cut it. You need the aesthetic all around. This type of mod is no better actually perhaps worse than the VW Jetta guys putting on 12 Kelvin HID units with under body neon lights. There go my underbelly lighting plans...... :rolleyes: well the only exception is if you have whisper quiet PSS9s, then the neon lights are a go.. if that's the rep you got around town. i think LEDs are a great aesthetic addition on top of the safety/reliability benefits, but it needs to come from the factory that way since it joins front to back. if porsche released 996 c4s/turbo LED rear lights as part of an update program, heck i'd hit it. i've just seen too many aftermarket setups on Ford pickups and such where it looks like crap.

Let it be. It only looks good on the 997 MK2. Just having LED in the rears doesn't cut it. You need the aesthetic all around. This type of mod is no better actually perhaps worse than the VW Jetta guys putting on 12 Kelvin HID units with under body neon lights.

but dam* it i want a refurbished one! :D i really think my c4s was originally owned by the dealer owner. i have my reasoning, but don't care to really get after it. supremely reliable thus far. knock on full leather.

mine doesn't and it was replaced under factory warranty.

If there is not any dark purple or green fluid dribbled down from where they are mounted, then they have not ruptured yet. That said, over time, certainly by 100K miles they will finally fail. New motor mounts can help isolate engine vibration, especially vibration at idle, but if the only thing that is different is the launch shudder, then replacing the mounts will not cure that. You got that for free when you reduced the rotational mass of the engine with the lightened flywheel. per your advice, i just had my original mounts replaced with same factory ones. thx. kinda pricey. i think it was close to $300 for the two mounts + whatever labor i got charged at my indy.