Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Hello everyone, My convertible top broke in "fully up" position recently, with the clamshell at a 20 degree tilt. Was able to remove the clamshell by getting under it (painfully) and found a shredded motor cable going to the driver's side. I wanted to make sure that neither of the two transmissions were at fault, so I removed them to examine their gears. Carefully disassembling them, all the gears appear to be in good shape with no missing teeth, however, when using the old intact cable and using the power drill to rotate the cable, the circular interior that goes into the V-joint does not move at all when turning with the power drill. Does it only rotate when under pressure? I'm thinking I'm *almost* there and would like to avoid $200-$400 for new transmissions if not needed... Thanks in advance, Keith Rupp
It's been a couple weeks, and it has started flawlessly, so I can state with 90% confidence that it was the clutch-interlock switch. Unless anyone out there has a compelling reason otherwise, it's my intention to leave it bypassed. There's a whole Federal Government now dedicated to being my nanny, so perhaps if I'm dumb enough to grind my transmission or drive my Boxster through the garage wall, I'll qualify for a bailout. :rolleyes:
OK, had the car out for a spin tonight, and it refused to start twice (the two times that I returned in less than 10 minutes). This time, the only thing I did was pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 times and she'd start right up. With this rigorous analysis I assume it is the clutch interlock sensor that's preventing me from starting. I'll do a full search, but is it possible it just needs adjusting? Or should I just spring for the $25 switch and pop it in? Keith
Replaced the ignition switch last weekend (AutoHausAZ does not take walk-ins, they had to mail it to me, arrived in two days). Everything went smoothly, but keep in mind that the screw holding in the air vent tunnel is different than the other three that hold in the vent, I thought I had stripped it. Anyways, car starts up fine, and I drove it for two days with no problems. The key now returns after starting to where it should be, instead of requiring me to click it over slightly. However, it again wouldn't start at the Subway nearby where it broke down before. A few minutes of fiddling with the fuse box and pumping the clutch in-and-out, I started up fine. When it wouldn't start, every light on the dash would stay on, and there was no "clicking" sound or equivalent. I'll do a search again, but what happens when the clutch pedal sensor is faulty?
OK, I got the sucker out this morning. It was a bit of a PITA, in that I'm 6'3" so I opted to take the left air flow vent out, so I wouldn't spend as much time on my back. The final #20 Torx screw behind the light switch was deeply recessed and (of course) none of my Torx bits attached to an extender that would go in. A trip to Home Depot procured a Husky Torx screwdriver & bit set with a thin extender, and they also had two "micro screwdrivers" which worked awesome on the screws holding in the switch. My cost out the door for the tools was just over $8. Once I had the tools, the whole process took less than 5 minutes, and I was able to do it all while sitting in the seat. The steering wheel locked while I was down there getting the air-flow ducts out, and I couldn't unlock it when I got back up. I'm hoping this is a side-effect of the switch being broken. I'll try to stop by AutoHausAZ tomorrow, hopefully they'll deal with drop-bys.
Put the new battery in tonight, and as most of you suspected, it didn't start, so it must be the switch. I closed the front trunk after replacing the plastic shield on the battery, and for now it starts right up. Thanks for the AutoHausAZ link. They're local to me, so I'll go try to get the switch Monday. Gawdz, this forum is awesome -- how much money would I be into the stealership before they solved this problem? If I'd listened to you guys in the first place, I'd only be out $8.95 + sales tax. Anyone want a new Porsche battery? I'll take the bad switch out tonight and leave my favorite device for enforcing my will on my location at rest for a couple days. Thanks again, Keith
Well, I did lookup part numbers and such and this seems to be a good deal for the plastic part of the ignition switch: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...p4506.m20.l1116 ...I didn't look at Sunset Imports or Pelican yet though... My question is, do I need to replace the entire lock assembly due to my problem? In that after starting (when it starts... :rolleyes: ) I need to click it slightly to the left for the radio to come on? I've never had a problem with the keylock "eating" my key and it getting stuck as many of you have reported...
I think I will replace the switch just on general principles (because it doesn't work perfectly like the rest of the car) and I now know I won't have to re-key, thanks to info in these excellent forums. I'm fairly certain that it is not the underlying cause, due to the consistency of what happened before/during/after the jump start, and how disconnecting the battery always fixed the problem until two nights ago. I'll do a full search, but does anyone know right away the best ignition swtich part that is compatible with my 2003 Boxster-S? I've seen eBay, VW part numbers -- and Porsche no longer sells the right part? I did buy a new battery as well. However, I have a feeling this will just cover up the problem for a few months. I'll install it tonight and let everyone know my results. :renntech:
Hello everyone, I have a problem that *may* be related to my ignition switch. For the past year, after starting the Boxster, in order for the radio and A/C to come on, I have to slightly click the key over to the left after starting. Then, recently, about 1 out of 40 times I'd turn the key to the start position and nothing would happen -- the engine would not turn over, although sometimes I could hear a large blower (probably the radiator fan or equivalent). I'd "fix" this by disconnecting the neg battery cable (probably resetting the ECU) and then I'd start right up. I was willing to live with this minor inconvenience until last night...and my trick no longer worked. However, I was able to attach jumper cables and the Boxster started on the first try. When I drove it home to the garage, it again does nothing when the key goes to the start position. I suspected a dead battery, took it out and it tests fine, although it is an original Porsche battery, 5+ years old, and I live in Arizona, and I'm dubious that Autozone can test the 580 amp rated load. I've read lots of posts about how shoddy the ignition switch is, but since it started fine after the jump, and then didn't again, I'm thinking it's not the switch. Suggestions? Is it the alternator or voltage regulator when it doesn't turn over or even do a continuous clicking? Thanks in advance, Keith
Hello everyone, I'm considering installing a Gentex 50-GENK50 (Auto dimming, Homelink, Compass, Temp) in my 2003 Boxster S, although most websites state that they "can not" or are "not recommended" for installs into any Porsche. I've called & emailed, but haven't received any definitive answer yet as to why. I'm sure someone out there either knows the answer why not or has overcome the the *reason* why not. :rolleyes: I'm willing to get a little ghetto and install a second mount if needed, but I'm also willing to consider carving up my driver's side sunvisor and buying a Homelink transceiver from a local junkyard for $30. Thanks for any insight in advance.
I have a good relationship with an Independent Porsche Mechanic that would probably do this for free or near free. Out of curiosity, what would actually happen to the car were the amp and the stock HU to "disappear"?
Whelp, it looks like I have four options: 1. Get a new HU, bypass the amp, wire direct to the (eventually aftermarket) speakers. Loren, does this have any adverse effect if the stock HU and amp are simply removed? Does the OBD throw any codes? 2. I've heard you can get an Aux-In adapter from Becker Audio. I've not called them yet, and opinions vary on if it is compatible with the CDR-23. Supposedly this cable costs ~$20. This would get me iPod in, but I'd lose playing MP3/WMA CD's or USB thumbdrives, which I could live with but is not as preferable to #1. 3. I could get a high-quality wired FM modulator. Seems fairly cheap, but with the same drawbacks as #2 above, unless Porsche saw fit to make the antenna optical in or some such craziness. 4. I could try a JL Cleansweep or ICE-Denison, but I think this is foolish money for what I get back. I'm not in to controlling my iPod while driving, I just have a few huge playlists I set on shuffle; also, recharging isn't that big an issue since the new ones last 8+ hours on one charge. Opinions out there? Experiences?
OK, now that I've actually bought the 2003 Boxster S (today! wahoo!), and I can see the amp under the front hood. It appears there are "normal" copper wires proceeding from the amp, so, if I get a new head unit, bring in power from where the amp is getting it (I've read elsewhere that 12v is not even brought down to the center console for the CDR-23) am I golden? Possible complications could be that the illumination, continuous power, ground, etc don't get down to the center console so I'll have to tap those as well. Of course, I have to bring down the copper speaker wires from where the amp used to be. Is there an adapter available so I could back out to original factory should I ever sell the car (not likely with my current attitude :D )? Thanks in advance!
This is NOT good news. So if I have the basic factory head unit (no CD changer in the trunk), if I want to replace it I have to bypass the factory amp? Once I get there I (hopefully) have normal wire going to the speakers? Where is the factory amp?