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Everything posted by HairyPotter

  1. Possible cause is the AOS (air oil separator); I'd advise having a look inside the air inlet pipes on the top of the engine for oil (a little oil makes a lot of smoke). Fairly cheap and easy fix if you're a DIY'er - I think there's a guide on here somewhere.
  2. My '00 Box just started doing this (2 beeps then unlocks)... I can't seem to lock the doors using either the remote or with the key in the door. Is there a quick fix? I don't like the idea of my car sitting on the drive with no security whatsoever! There may be a quick fix - but first you need to hook up the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS to find out where the alarm fault is. Cheers Loren; figured out how to lock it at least (2 quick stabs on the remote or 3 turns of the key in the doorlock) so at least there's some security.
  3. My '00 Box just started doing this (2 beeps then unlocks)... I can't seem to lock the doors using either the remote or with the key in the door. Is there a quick fix? I don't like the idea of my car sitting on the drive with no security whatsoever!
  4. good idea - my neighbour plugged his new durametric in yesterday while I was putting the sport headers back on and no faults were stored - I'll get him to bring it along for a drive
  5. did that as well, cheers for the suggestion though
  6. My 2000 2.7 feels like it's running as flat as a pancake. I've recently replaced the MAF and thought it might be poor quality or faulty but it made no discernible difference when I disconnected it and took it for a 5 mile run. The car has an electronic throttle and idles evenly at just over 600 rpm on the tacho. I changed all the spark plugs (checked for correct grade) and coil packs approx 12 months / 5,000 miles ago. When I fitted the new MAF I took the opportunity to clean out the throttle body and air intake system as I previously changed the AOS due to failure. I have remade every join in the air intake system to make absolutely certain that additional unmetered air isn't getting in. I even swapped the exhaust headers back to standard but this seems to have made the situation slightly worse if anything (at least now I think the headers are better than OE). The air filter (OE) is as new, no CEL, all the visible vacuum pipes, electrical connectors, etc are connected and intact and draw through the oil filler cap is fine (not too strong). I have coasted the car from speed in gear and in neutral so I don't think it's unwanted friction in the brakes or drivetrain. I usually run it on BP Ultimate fuel. I'm thinking fuel delivery or pressure - possibly a partly blocked fuel filter. Anybody got any further suggestions?
  7. Why build 4 Shermans when you can build 1 Tiger?! Quality over cost mentality. PS. Ferdinand Porsche designed a hybrid-drive version of the Tiger 1 but lost the production contract to Henschel.
  8. item no 230342113640 on ebay.co.uk, seller is partsdome (99.6%/6406 pos feedback) Got one! Thanks mate - you just saved me a lot of money! Arrived (and fitted) today. Took the opportunity to clean the throttle body, the pipes between the inlet manifolds and knock some dust out of the air filter element. Bit hesitant at 2000 and 5500 rpm to start with but went for a 15 mile run to settle it in and all's good with the world! :jump:
  9. I have cleaned the old MAF 3 or 4 times (including when I pulled it at the weekend to double-check the part number. It helps briefly but it struggled through the emission test a couple of weeks ago and doesn't feel like it's fuelling correctly. For 76 quid it's not worth the hassle.
  10. Pleasure... you can buy me a beer next time you're in town :D
  11. item no 230342113640 on ebay.co.uk, seller is partsdome (99.6%/6406 pos feedback)
  12. Thanks for the prompt answer Loren, I thought it would be ok but thought I'd best ask first. Cheers mate. Ordered one at a very reasonable £76.46 incl delivery ($116)
  13. Hi I'm looking at buying a new MAF for my 2000 2.7 Boxster and on pulling the old unit I've noted the part numbers as follows: Bosch - 0 28 218 055; Porsche - 986.606.125.00. A seller on Ebay (UK) is selling replacement MAF's for reasonable price and includes the following statement on his ad: "Bosch 0280 218 055 For models with M620 e-accelerator, for original 99660612400 or updated 98660612501 Porsche units. Please double check your part number and comaptibility before the purchase." Obviously the Bosch p/n is identical but the Porsche p/n is suffixed 01 instead of 00 - does this have any bearing on the MAF working correctly or not or is it just Porsche listing an updated p/n?
  14. Are you sure you really need a Porsche? Perhaps a segway instead? :rolleyes:
  15. LINK third pic shows a J-tube, if yours doesn't look like that then you need the Y-tube! I replaced mine a couple of years ago and took me about 4 hours and was the first job I did on a Boxster. You will need to access the engine from both top and bottom so axle stands are a 'must have'.
  16. The engine itself is treated/coated to prevent corrosion of the aluminium (sic - British spelling) and shouldn't be cleaned if I remember correctly; might be a good idea to inspect inside the tube from the AOS (air/oil separator) where it joins the air intake system and check for oil deposits, the oily marks could be an AOS failing
  17. Anyone know if I would need spacers for these wheels to fit my 2000 Boxster? The offsets are 8Jx18" ET57 front and 10Jx18" ET58 rear.
  18. sorry to hear about the fail, if you have the emissions print out from the test centre please add that data to your thread HI, Fast idle test: Fast idle HC (ppm vol) : 271 Fast idle CO (%Vol) : 6.48 Fast idle Lambda : 0.822 Second Fast idle test: Second Fast idle HC (ppm vol) 293 Second Fast idle CO (%Vol) : 6.44 Second Fast idle Lambda : 0.822 Natural Idle test: Idle CO (% vol) 4.93 Thanks looks to be miles out on emissions, from my recent MoT test the parameters for my '00 2.7 manual are: Fast idle HC: max 200 (yours 271 & 293 FAIL) Fast idle CO: 0.200 (yours 6.48 & 6.44 FAIL) Fast idle Lambda: 0.97 - 1.03 (yours 0.822 & 0.822 FAIL) Natural idle CO: max 0.300 (yours 4.93 FAIL) not an expert by any means but looks to be way too rich; what's it like to drive? (flatspots, throttle response, exhaust smoke); has air filter and air intake system been checked for blockages? Is a major service due? If not I would suggest getting it plugged into a diagnostic machine to pinpoint the problem (though probably not at your local tyre/exhaust centre)
  19. sorry to hear about the fail, if you have the emissions print out from the test centre please add that data to your thread
  20. it's supposed to keep the oil from entering the intake but as it's now on its 4TH REDESIGN we can safely say it's been a bit of an Achilles Heel for Porsche
  21. The AOS is the same whether e-gas or not... the new AOS may look different to the one on your car but it will fit ok. Clean any oil out of the Y-tube you've got and return the new J-tube. Did your AOS come with a new bellows pipe for the bottom connection? If not you will need a new one.
  22. I replaced mine recently and didn't have a problem... I think the crest pulled itself into the gasket as i tightened the nuts, perhaps a smear of liquid soap around the edge might help?
  23. spark plugs only accessible from underneath the car; perhaps your battery current is marginal, enough juice to spin the starter moter but not quite enough to fully energise the ignition system. I bought a new battery for mine last week and that turned the motor over but wouldn't start it without an initial boost from my other car.
  24. America, Land of the Free :huh: I thought we (in Britain) were subjected to a lot of needless nanny-state government interference but this thread reads like a horror story. Does the condition described (disconnection of battery affects running and code output until the car has had time to relearn and settle down) affect RoW models too? Reason I ask is that my '00 2.7 had a new battery last week and I didn't realise there was a reconnection procedure until after I'd taken it for its annual MoT test, it passed the emissions test but the tester had to 'help' it to pass and told me I should get a diagnostic sorted before it did some valve damage. I read up on and carried out the correct battery reconection procedure and this seems to have made a big improvement on the driveability but still not 100% on what is was before the battery change, will my car 'get better' with usage? I've only done a few miles since the reconnect.
  25. It's taken longer than I'd hoped but it's finished (sort of....), got it back last week and MoT'd it on Friday but combo of poor weather and manflu have curtailed too much driving as yet. Total cost (parts, fitting and paint) just under £2k* so very pleased with the end result. *£2k including new s/s manifolds, new fixings and a rear box from a 3.2 S.
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