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Paul Fraser

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Everything posted by Paul Fraser

  1. Paul Fraser
    Weird. There has been a lot of discussion about MAFs on this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...pic=414&hl= I would have expected the turbo to be egas and using a 124.00 MAF not a non-egas 123.00. I had a look in the PET and it shows a 124.00 part as well (although this has been superceded by the 125.01 according to the thread). Be interested to see what the other turbo owners on the forum have have to say.
  2. Paul Fraser
    I'm tempted to ask if you have any more... but am worried you might have!
  3. Paul Fraser
    TP, sacreligous images on Renntech... I'm disappointed... :)
  4. Paul Fraser
    Good luck but I suspect he'll either stop after the pressure test (because the system deosn't hold pressure) or fill it and it will be empty again in fairly short order... If he adds dye this won't be a complete loss. Did you do a visual inspection of the condensers at the front of the car and the pipes under the rhs? PS Thanks Loren for the screenshots, very informative.
  5. Paul Fraser
    Loren, what info does this give them? Does it indentify a leak, compressor problem, control problem, etc.?
  6. Paul Fraser
    The pipes underneath the car cost about £100-110 and would probably take 2-3 hours labour. A condenser can be got for £110 each if you use Eurocarparts Leeds (they do a Porsche Club Forum discount, just ask), although you'll probably need a new receiver dryer as well, £45, and o-rings, £10. A garage/OPC will quote £150-200 for a condenser and probably another 2-3 hours labour for that -- same length of time to do both, or not more than 15 minutes more. Regas another £50-100. But you need to find out what it is first: might be worth taking it in for a high pressure nitrogen test if the fuses/compressor check out. On both of mine I could hear the gas hissing out. Better, get them to put some dye in the system and this will show leaks under black light. PS I believe the idle speed can change even if the compressor is not working. My aircon guy told me that the aircon switch sends a signal to the DME which increases the revs; this is independent of whether the compressor is actually working...
  7. Paul Fraser
    As you live in sunny Britain (sound of rain p*ssing down in background) it is going to be one of two things I'll wager: 1. either the condensers at the front of the car have corroded (shine a light through the bumper vents into the corners and see if you can spot the tell-tale dark stain at the corner of the aircon condenser/radiator. 2. the pipes on the right hand underside of the car have corroded. See if you can see any fluid/staining on the pipes, usually at the plastic supports. Had both these problems on my 97 Boxster and 97 996, repaired both two months ago. (Background sound of till opening, emptying and closing.)
  8. Paul Fraser
    They'll have Porsche numbers, size and offset marked if they are Porsche wheels (e.g my current 996 set are: 993.362.134.06, 7.5J, ET50; 993.362.140.04, 10J, ET65).
  9. Paul Fraser
    If they are 7 and a half inch or eight inch fronts they'll go straight on. If they are 10 inch backs you'll need an 18 mm spacer. The offsets are 55/50 on the Boxster and 50/65 on the 996 (from memory, it might be 50/55 on the Box but I don't think so). Ideally, you'd be looking for 9 inchers on the back on the Box to get rid of the spacers. This assumes Porsche wheels and not replicas...
  10. Paul Fraser
    KC, I think you need to reread the thread (or maybe I do :) ). You both have egas cars so, if my reading of this thread is correct, and if you replace a older 124 with a newer 125 MAF sensor you will need to get the DME reprogrammed. You might get lucky and be able to get the 124 part but I'll be surprised if it is available for much longer.
  11. Paul Fraser
    Thanks Loren. I guess I'll be doing that again tomorrow then... :)
  12. Paul Fraser
    Well so much for the spare MAF off of Ebay, it's a complete lemon. Car idles at 800-850 and then stalls when any throttle given. Couldn't rev above 1500-2000 rpm. Knew I should have tested it when I got it. Put the old one in (after cleaning the wrong part) and it idled at 800-850 but sounded slightly rough. The right hand exhaust seems to be putting out a different frequency of exhaust to the left. Is the sports exhaust handed, i.e. right hand exhaust for right hand manifold and left for left or is it all mixed? If it is separate I think I might have a problem on one cylinder, but surely that would generate a check light?
  13. Paul Fraser
    I've still got my doubts about the MAF but I'm getting ahead of myself... Got the ICV out (pig of a job getting the rear screw because of the two pipes at the back. If my Dad hadn't been there with another set of hands I would have had to take off the throttle housing... and probaby break that gasket too, but that's another story). Cleaned off the the ICV with carb cleaner and the silver hatch inside it seemed to be moving freely. Car idled when hot and didn't stall this time, but idle revs are only around 650 and it seems to be running roughly, and I'm talking more than the usual. With the aircon in it seems to be a bit happier, idling around 800-850. Where do I go next? I have a spare MAF I got off of Ebay so I'm thinking about dropping that in, and sorting the exhaust shields which are probably causing the rattling sound at idle -- I hope that isn't the engine! PS Thanks for the links Richard, they helped.
  14. Paul Fraser
    Thanks, Loren, I'm clearer on what I need to do now. For anyone else coming after me with the same problem, this link might help: https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/pdf/e...996_KATALOG.pdf Illustration 107-00
  15. Paul Fraser
    I'm going to have a look at this on Tuesday and have been looking around the forum for other threads that might shine a little more light on the location and procedure for removing the ICV. Jim's post helps a little and I've found the part on the PET but can anyone post a photo showing where the part is on the engine please (probably obvious when you look at the engine but I'm away from home at the moment)? Thanks.
  16. Paul Fraser
    Not the rears, but the rest will fit pre facelift 996s (you'll lose the tilt adjustment facility on the headlights though).
  17. Paul Fraser
    It had a new battery fitted just before this, started ok and the problem then manifested itself after quite a long run. Also started ok the day after and idled fine (while cold), so I doubt this is the problem.
  18. Paul Fraser
    Was the hassle in getting the appropriate wires and connectors...?
  19. Paul Fraser
    Manual non-egas. I'll try what you have suggested when I get back home, thanks. PS Mine started from cold and idled fine too.
  20. Paul Fraser
    I agree with the above but to answer some of your questions (hopefully accurately): what is a DME: engine electronics. will my manual have my radio code: if it is a Becker or Porsche unit no, unless someone has put the credit card size code card (that should have come along with your manual) in a supplied adhesive pocket at the back of the manual (unusual). Or someone may have written the number in the back. The code can be obtained here (from someone if you are lucky, there is unlocking software about, although mine is a bit hit and miss) or at an OPC ($). If you need to do this then you will need the serial number on the unit. Will it harm anything if I disconnect the battery, or will any lights go on: No, however, when you reattach the battery the alarm/horn will go off unless you have the ignition switch at position 1, or at least that is what happens with UK cars. Good luck with it, and if you are stuck in the future come here. There are a lot of very smart and helpful people here who have helped me lots in the past.
  21. Paul Fraser
    My 996 has largely been in my garage for the last three months while I got the aircon sorted out. Only been started a few times and on one very short trip. Battery replaced during this furlough as previous one losing charge. Drove to Aberdeen (2.5 hours) and enroute car stalled when slowing down at Dundee (after 1.4 hours driving) and repeatedly at end of trip. These all happened due to the revs collapsing when slowing down or stopped. No CEL. MAF problem or do I need to look at something else? 1997 996 C2 TIA.
  22. Paul Fraser
    Hi Tim: I plan to upgrade my LHD 97 Boxster and RHD 98 996 so there are two votes already. Obviously I need to read the DIY but I think I would prefer the ability to purchase the individual parts. In order of interest these are: 1. Harness (think you are onto a winner here. Saves time and probably near impossible to source from a breaker unless you do what you did). 2. Aftermarket CC unit (although this depends on cost -- the second hand prices I've been quoted over here vary from $100 to $225 exc tax delivery). 3. The cam (again, depends on cost, quoted second hand prices of pedals $100 exc tax/delivery). 4. Aftermarket cc switches: would prefer to keep it stock. A couple of supplementary questions if I may: When you say the aftermarket cc unit is 'virtually' identical is the only difference cosmetic or is there something else? Can I rob a 98 cruise pedal of its cam and convert my non-cruise 97 pedal to a cruise one? Keep up the good work!
  23. Paul Fraser
    Thanks for that: I actually asked the OPC for prices for the parts at one point because it was so hard to find a 97 Boxster unit and accelerator for LHD here in the UK (btw looking at the PET there seems to be a different CC unit for the 97 cars and another for the 98-on. There is also a different accelerator pedal for the 97 and 98-on cars. I wonder if it is just a matter of using a 97 cc unit and accelerator or a 98 unit and accelerator together?). If I have the correct piece of paper the prices are: £167.31 for the accelerator pedal £337.91 for the cc unit £8.35 for ? (clutch or brake switch probably) I suspect if you can source the cc unit outwith Porsche it will require a 98-on accelerator pedal for 97MY upgrades...
  24. Paul Fraser
    Hi Sunray, where did you get the 18 pin connector and how much was it? Always useful to know these things :)
  25. Paul Fraser
    You'll still need an accelerator unit won't you? i.e. the one in a non-cruise control car won't do?
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