Jon996

[shoot, can't edit title. Hopefully some of you will figure I meant dipstick extraction, not "extra."] Has anyone ever changed oil via a dipstick extractor? I think Mercedes used to recommend this. I still plan on changing filters on a regular basis, but this would be a home way to change just the oil. This might seem a dumb question, but I am not sure where exactly the dipstick measures the level and whether or not an extraction tube would be able to remove all the oil. Thanks!

Here is a question for any of you who are really know your shocks--any professional installers out there? First, this is the diagram of the rear adjustment unit for reference: Now when you adjust these shocks from 1 to 10, the knob B (adjusting head) has a pin that stops when it hits the pin of D (end stop disc). Both parts B and D have set screws. Well, on my rear shocks, the set screws for part D, the end stop disc, were loose. So, when turning the knob by feel (sorry, but the triangular pointer on the shock is black on black--really hard to see) I just kept going . . . So my question is this. Can any of you help me estimate the original location of "I", the adjusting screw, for either soft or hard so that I can adjust the stop again? Part "I" (adjusting screw) has a limited amount of travel. Just a guess--perhaps all the way in is "10" for stiff? Tried calling Billstein, but something tells me the people I need to talk to are in Germany . . .

Just one followup question. Any idea what part 996 111 351 02 is? Exhuast pipe right for a C4S (and a left one too). It's not the tail pipe, and I did not see any equivalent description for non C4S. (also, it's not on the drawing)

Wow, thanks much! Fall colors at peak here in MN, and unusually warm. I am going to install my Fabspeed's next week, but just looked at the rust on the bolts and thought new clamps might be in order.

Greetings! I tried search for a while but I think my terms were too general to find the part . . . What is the part number for the clamp that connects the muffler to the cat? The one with two 17 mm bolts (hopefully not rusty :) ) Do you know if it comes with the bolts too? Car: 2003 996 C4S Thanks!

I wanted to do the same thing . . .May I ask how you made a copy? I tried just copying the files onto a blacnk CD but this just locked up my Nav unit. Thanks!

Thanks, but "ouch!" If I converted correctly (including the density of the oil) I get 1.76 L/1000KM or 1.86 qt per 621 miles.

I am at the dealer for an oil consumption test (see my other thread for details) but I was wondering if anyone had a TSB with the official consumption rate limit from Porshe. I searched the TSBs a couple of times but did not find anything. The reason I ask is that I have heard 1 qt per 600 miles, 1.1 qt per 622 miles, and most recently, 1.5 qt per 622 miles. The 1.1qt/622 miles and 1.5 qt/622 mile figures were from two different people at the same dealership! The dealer will not look into it under warranty unless the "official" limit is met. Thanks, Jon PS: I know this is a lot of oil, I like my car, the dealer is nice, not wanting to start another oil war. Just want the facts before the consumption test is done.

OK, i'm adding the barium contrast to the oil today and the car heads in for a CT tomorrow. No fuel after dinner. ;)

Thanks--down the road, please post your results. I just noticed that Castrol Syntec 5W50 is also on the approved list. This is a little easier to purchase in MN (or on Amazon.com, for that matter!) Best Regards, Jon

Just back from a short trip, and wanted to thank you for the suggestion--I think this is a good idea. I have googled quite a bit, and cannot seem to find 5W-50 synthetic in the US. I will keep looking, however. Little afraid of the 15W-50 in our MN climate (unless I just use it from about June through August).

That is pretty cold for San Jose. [PS: no problems since I changed sensors.]

Thanks--I didn't know that!

996.522.421.00.01C Stop -- US MSRP $3.79 each Thanks Loren!

Sorry, I really should have attached a photo. This is the part I am looking for. the black "grip" or "handle" on the back of the seat. Thanks again, Jon

Kind of a trivial question, but does anyone have the part number for the small black "grip" or whatever it is called behind the rear seats on a 996? It is the part that is attached to the seat back itself. I am missing one of them. I can post a photo if my description is too vague. Thanks again.

oops . . . Mobil1 0W40 About 1 qt per 600-700 miles. Used to be about 1 qt per 1500 miles. Changed over the winter.

Greetings again! I am working with my dealer to track down high oil consumption. It has not reached the value needed for warranty intervention, but is getting close. Car is a 3.6L 996; 2003; about 35K miles. So far, here is what I can say: Car seems to run fine . . . No drips at all. Quite a bit of soot above left exhaust. Almost small black droplets here and there. Much less on right. No oil in coolant. No smoke. Recently we ran a compression test and a leakdown, both with good results. Compression values varied about 2% between cylinders (210 to 215), and leak down was only 1 to 2 % per cylinder. I have asked the service team about the AOS, but the absence of smoke makes them think the AOS is OK. Still under CPO, by the way. Any suggestions RennTech? Thanks again!

My Porsche dealer could actually order Optimoly TA as mentioned in the manual. Given the price, I thought I would need a prescription! ;)

Interesting, my Audi tt lived on 15W50 for the summer months.

Hey everyone, thanks for the input. Not looking to start a war, or discuss Porsche policies, etc. Really love my 996 and want to keep it running. A little less concerned because I have CPO coverage for another year. Thus I am hoping for a few practical sugggestions that I can discuss with either my dealer (if they are willing) or an independent. One suggestion that I had seen was the sport oil separator, a Porsche component. Other suggestions welcome.

OK, just how would you make Porsche fix the problem? Just interested. I certainly agree with your comments regarding the crazy level of oil use that Porsche feels is acceptable but can you imagine what it would cost to have a lawyer tackle the Porsche team? Perhaps the EPA would be a better bet!

Take it somewhere that can check the oil separator. There is an easy non invasive test with an instrument that is inserted into the filler neck. Don't ask me what it is, but it can find fault with the separator and I have seen it used. Where are you located? Maybe someone can suggest a mechanic to check it out. Thanks for the great suggestion--I am in the area of St. Paul/Minneapolis MN. I can check around for this, but if anyone has a suggested shop please let me know. Post a request for an indy in your area over at Rennlist. Or, perhaps call around if there is another Porsche dealer and see if they'll check it out. I would have a talk with a manager at your dealer though. There's no reason they shouldn't check out your car especially if you bought it from them. Perhaps tell them your car was blowing a lot of smoke from the tailpipes... Thanks for your support. Actually, I did talk to the manager, the salesman, and emailed the company manager. They in turn contacted the regional Porsche managers. All are taking the company line that I have not reached the magic limit yet. Hey, it runs great, have over a year on CPO, so when it gets worse they will look at it. Seems kind of odd, however. I think the financial problems have hit everyone. My past experience with high-end dealers was more flexible. To go back to my original post, I have a request in to pre-emptively try an upgraded Porsche oil separator (at a shared expense). I'll let you know later what happens. Still open to other suggestions, however.

Hi! I just used the Griot's kit with a RO for the first time on my clear-coat metallic Orient Red 996. Worked super, using the #3 polish. One extra splurge I would suggest if you are interested, is also purchasing their "mini" random orbital (3" pads). It was great on some of the sharper curves as well as other small areas. Very nice to use! I even touched up a couple clear-coat scratches on my wheels. PS: Based on recommendations from those with more experience than I have, I masked off the rubber moldings and the fabric around the sunroof with blue masking tape before polishing.

Take it somewhere that can check the oil separator. There is an easy non invasive test with an instrument that is inserted into the filler neck. Don't ask me what it is, but it can find fault with the separator and I have seen it used. Where are you located? Maybe someone can suggest a mechanic to check it out. Thanks for the great suggestion--I am in the area of St. Paul/Minneapolis MN. I can check around for this, but if anyone has a suggested shop please let me know.