Jon996

Thanks for the suggestions. it's a 6 speed, I got it CPO with about 22K on it. I too have looked at the various sites for oil use, and there are some around that consume oil--just not to the amount I have at the moment. Frankly, I am on CPO and the dealer will not do anything until the magic oil consumption number is reached. So if it costs them more later then so be it. In the meantime, if a change/upgrade to the separator helps, I will fund that myself. Given the fact it is under warranty, I do not want to start digging around by myself (as tempting as it might be) in case it might invalidate the warranty. I would, however, like suggestion as to what I might have a mechanic check and repair, depending on how much it costs. Still seems a little silly that I should wait until it gets worse, but "thems the rules" I guess.

Greetings! I would like some technical advice here. Situation: Oil consumption on used 2003 996 C4S was running about 1 qt per 1500 miles. Not great, but not bad (no need to chime in if you have zero consumption just to make me feel bad ;) ) Then over the winter, as I drove the car, it went down to 1 qt per 600. So I figure I will head into the shop for a check. They do a formal oil consumption check, which, by the book, involves topping off the oil cold, driving 600 miles, then reading it cold. Now the annoying part (minor rant). They confirmed 1 qt per 600 miles, but then produced a TSB that stated 1.1 qt per 622 miles was the actual standard, thus they could not look into it. Since I am an engineer by trade, I pointed out that a dipstick is hardly a precision instrument. However, they sent the query on to the regional technical manager (probably an accountant) who denied action. FYI: Never any smoke. Might be excessive soot from right exhaust, but some from left too. The car runs really quiet, no obvious power loss that I can tell, no weird sounds, no drips anywhere. OK, I have a year left on my CPO, so I can wait a few months then go back in for a precision dipstick measurement, but I was also thinking of taking some action (at my expense) now. One item that comes to mind from other threads on this is to try the 2 chamber Porsche Motor Sport oil separator. Porsche OEM-996 107 926 00. At least even if this did not help it would be considered an upgrade from the stock unit. Any other suggestions?

Just a question for any of you. Suspension is not covered by a CPO. Do you think a set of PSS10s will void the rest of the warranty? Just wondering how strick Porsche has been on this.

I think I'm having that problem as well. I'll check with the dealer. Thanks! I swear the dealer just quoted me $200 to fix this. That seems a little steep. It's just the support bar correct? Mine was in the range of $120 to $150, but the quote was actually higher since they were not exactly sure how long it would take. Can't remember for sure. It did not take them as long as they thought. They have to partially remove the headliner which is where the time comes in (and also why I did not dare try it myself). Actually I would have paid more--it just bugged me so much. PS: I think hourly at dealers is up to $115 or so . . .

Thanks Jon - how many miles you got on it? Hi! I purchased with 22 K miles last year, and have about 30K now

FYI, I bought a used 2003 C4S, and add about 1 qt in 1200-1500 miles. I know it varies widely, however.

One last idea from me--it's an easy thing to check. When driving, put your hand just behind the sunroof on the support bar that goes across the headliner. I think there is a seam in the fabric, but if not it's just a couple of inches behind the roof. If the rattle goes away with just a very light pressure on this bar then it probably came unclipped on one side. Dealer can fix this really quick. That fixed my rattle. (I know this is not the sunroof, but it might sound like the sunroof when driving. I know I thought it was the sunroof before the dealer checked)

Just a question--is this when it is open or shut? I had a really bad rattle when open only. Turned out to be some bar across the headliner just behind the sunroof. A quick and not to expensive fix at the dealer. All's quiet now!

Thanks!!

There is a very, very shallow "flat spot" on my front left fender. Straight above the center of the front wheel, almost on the top of the fender. I think someone or something pushed down a little too hard. Only visible under certain light conditions, but of course it drives me nuts. I am sure I could "push out" this area from the inside if I could figure out how to make it to the metal. What would be involved in getting access? Would I go in from the front boot or from the wheelwell?

I found a copy of the "T" equipment options (Probably from a link here at Renntech, but do not remember for sure). I tracked down one trim piece (door pull) and the dealer was able to order it. Some are parts of kits and some are not. Pretty amazing,however, was the fact that the finish of the part I received in 2007 matched the original 2003 just great. Good luck!

Just another confirmation note. This happened to me too as the weather got colder in MN. Nothing all summer, but a couple of short trips and the yellow goo. I did stop by the dealer, who confirmed a normal response to cool weather.

Yes, it is completely clean. Actually, happened just today as I went in to the dealer for an unrelated part (plastic part near the rear of the car). The car and sensor were completely clean. As I left, I noticed it was stuck at -15. Remove/reinsert fixed it. Last time this happended was a below zero day, but I had recently washed the car. Just kind of a mystery. Will replace sensor just to see . . . Thanks for your reply, Jon

OK, I will admit that temperatures of -20 are not typical P-car weather, but I do have a question. Twice now, my outside air temp sensor has been stuck at a given temp. Once it was -7, other time -15. Trying to figure out a pattern, the only thing I can think of was that, in both cases, the car had been subjected to a radical shift in temp. In other words, driven into a warm environment. In both cases I was able to fix this by unplugging the outside sensor (located in front right grill). This resulted in an error message. Upon replacement, temp was OK again. Just wondering how unusual this was? Since the sensor is only $16, I will replace it.

Just a quick question--I have heard that using the cigarette lighter trickle charger while you change batteries will preserve the radio and ECU codes. Does this work? Thanks That does work, as long as the power is not interrupted. Remember, if you have one of the "early" cigarette lighters, the receptacle is a little wider in diameter and a lot shorter, so it's easy for the plug to fall out and thus to "lose power" accidentally. Regards, Maurice. Thanks!!

Just a quick question--I have heard that using the cigarette lighter trickle charger while you change batteries will preserve the radio and ECU codes. Does this work? Thanks

thanks so much! I did not think there WAS a part under $100 on the car :D This looks like it should be an easy home fix--sound OK or should I head to the dealer? I'm off to contribute to Renntech--such a great site

Thanks much for the diagram. I was hoping it might be one of the smaller pieces, but it looks like it is piece number 5. The original photo I took looks like just where one of the nut-number-2 is located.

oops, sorry about that . . . 2003 C4S; US version

Greetings again! I noticed that one of the plastic panels that are on the undercarriage has cracked (actually has a gouge out of it), and would like to replace it. I have no idea where to look for the part number. If anyone could point me in the right direction I would be thrilled. Here is a mirror shot of the piece. Sorry for the photo quality, but was holding the mirror with one hand and taking the photo with the other. It is on the drivers side, immediately in front of the rear jack point.

THANK YOU :renntech:

I have been asking the same question on a couple of different forums, so thought I would reply too. I have a 2003 C4S. Tough and expensive decision to make. My synopsis, based on the replies from those who know more than me (meaning all), is this: 19: More current, trendy, pretty (they are) and, in rare cases, needed for really high-end brakes (not stock brakes) I looked over tire sizes at Tirerack, and there are very few wide 19" tires that will keep the correct diameter for the rear wheels of 996 C4S. 18: Generally considered better performance. Many more tires available. Not as trendy. Not quite as "pretty" but still really nice! Me? Still on the fence, but leaning towards 18s. Many seem to have went to 19s, however. Also, did not want to duplicate KevinMacs good comments.

Greetings! I have been searching for quite a while tonight, and have to give in and ask . . . I have been having large fluctuations in the outside air temp reading. I removed, cleaned, and replaced the temp probe/thermocouple from the front passenger side bumper grill, and the temp reading went back up. (I did get a failure message when the probe was removed, which I took as a good sign that the system was working). I thought it might be prudent to replace this thermocouple part, but cannot find the part number. My guess is I am not searching for the correct term, but could someone please help me out? Car is a 2003 996 C4S.

What color car? I have seen nice results on about everything but white. I actually ended up with both the 3M and Ventureshield, and I think you would like the Ventureshield better. It's much more flexible, so even the installers liked it better for the bumper, and it is more clear too. Try a google for other opinions!

Thanks--I tried pulling backwards but the wood trim piece does not want to move. I was a little afraid of breaking it. Perhaps I just need to try harder . . .