Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by zodman

  1. Got two quick questions on the LN Bearing. Specifically the small rubber seal on the shaft. Documentation doesn't mention if it should be on or off the bearing shaft when the bearing is sent to the deep freeze. Second one...Documentation also doesn't state whether that same small seal should be resting against the back wall of the shaft, behind the flange and nut. OR Should it be between the flange and the nut? Not that I'm one of those that needs the "Caution: Coffee Hot" signs on my morning cup, but this detail of where the rubber seal is supposed to be is a mystery...
  2. They'll provide a SSF retail partner for a private individual. I should have looked into it further, but I ended up buying from Sunset and Pelican the majority of what I needed.
  3. My understanding was that they are wholesale only...If they'll sell to anyone, I would have purchased as much as I could have from them to begin with. https://www.ssfautoparts.com/#page_signup
  4. Grainger will have the 290 and the 268 local to me within 7 miles on Monday. The closest local Stealer (just down the street from Grainger) only sells the t-fluid in 20 liter containers....I didn't bother to ask the price. Sunset will ship 3 liters to me for 26.80 a liter + shipping. If I had an "in" to SSF, that'd be great. Hate to see stuff come from there and sometimes travel up to 100 miles when I live only a few minutes away from there.
  5. Crazy World... I live less than 5 minutes from SSF Auto(the big wholesaler for a lot of P-parts), and anything I buy through Pelican that is shipped via FedEx has to travel well over a hundred miles to get to me, though I could drive over there and pick it up...burning less than a gallon of fuel and a half hour of my time(If I was allowed)....And there isn't a smudge of 268 or 290 within 30 miles of me. I've got a Grainger within 7 miles of me, and they don't have either in stock at their local store.
  6. Finding local sources here in the Bay Area for Loctite (that isn't super glue) is elusive to say the least, so I may have to find alternatives, but I'll seek out the Loctite# first. As for the 574, I've got Curil-T. I also have the Loctite 5900. If anyone here is in the BAY AREA knows where Loctite (in those numbers mentioned) is sold in stores, please either pm me or respond to this...Thanks. I'll shave off another 2mm on my tool and install clean and dry, I thought I read the new seal must be placed 3mm past the location of the former seal, therefore it would mate on untouched metal...I als
  7. Got it locked down after rotating crank a few times, placed a wedge of wood between the bottom of the Cam lock and the chassis cross-brace. Checked position using dental mirror during each "jolt" to the engine when loosening the tensioners. Nostalgia shot...That 24mm tool on the big nut is from the first motorcycle I ever owned when I turned 24. It was a used Honda...But that's all I can remember...It was the tail end of the 80s after all. Bearing is off, had a little oil spill out from the tube. Using red light to eliminate glare. I see the shaft is pulled slightly to the upper left.
  8. Thanks, on #1 I was certain it had to be there on 4-6 as that's why I wouldn't progress further. As for item #3 just want to reassure you that was just for photo clarity, and to see what it should look like if it is set proper. I wouldn't move it off TDC during the procedure, or not have the locking pin in place. I'll give the crank a few clockwise rotations to see if it's old bones loosen up....usually works for me in the morning.
  9. Ok, I can verify that the engine is at TDC for cyl 1 because the intake cam plug (by the AOS) has the notch pointing right(eastward). When I try to install the five-chain cam lock on the 4-6 cyl. exhaust cams, it does not fit square in the two notches. It will nest in the top, but it is cleaving a little too much towards the flywheel side, leaving a slight gap towards the left. Fudging it a tad to fit in proper isn't happening. Since it isn't lining up properly, I'm hesitant about proceeding further with cyls 4-6 because I want a nice snug fit and I suspect it may pop out once I start to loose
  10. As someone that does this for a living, let me give you some basics: Forget about anyone's instructions except for LN Engineering. While some people have gotten away using the so-called set screw method, others have had major league problems. Because the gear you are pushing on with the set screws is a press fit to the IMS shaft, you can actually move the gear on the shaft, which then requires taking the engine apart to fix. Bad idea. Get a copy of the LN instructions and follow them to the letter, they are the only ones known to not create problems; and don't cheap out on getting the nec
  11. Hi all and happy festivus, I can't find any literature on the LN special tools if the width differences on the 5 chain and 3 chain camshaft locks means that you needn't bother putting the 3 chain lock on Cyls 1-3 (or on a 5-chain motor) if you've already got the 5 chain lock on Cyls 4-6...just for the extra piece of mind that locking both sides would offer. I see the 3-chain lock is slightly thicker, and doesn't seem to fit in. And as for rotating the engine at TDC, is it TDC for cyl 4-6 or TDC for 1-3? Also, since I've got the 5-chain version with the double row bearing, do all the chain te
  12. If you've got a couple of halogen lamps, I find they generate a lot of heat...sometimes too much heat...but the lighting is good.
  13. You bet....yeah my own quest to see if I had a $14.75 dollar leak or a $650+ leak quickly snowballed into a $3k "as long as I'm in there..." set of updates. But at least I should be good for another 100k miles.
  14. Check the price with Sunset too. They may have a better ship rate from Porsche...though since you're in Canada there maybe a reasonable source local to you.
  15. It "might" be 996.106.255.01 known as a flat connector. The qualifier is if the rubber hose section leads to the oil cooler. If the link below works...It should take you to a graphic with the part. According to Pelican, it's a 2.00 part, but a special order so additional fees "might" apply. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/PartsLookup/search.cgi?command=show_page&Catalog_Name=986_USA_KATALOG&Illustration=104-00&Line_Item=33
  16. I can't quite be sure what I'm seeing here JFP in PA. This looks more like a line art illustration than an image. Maybe I'm just not looking at it right.... In real life, the item depicted in the drawing above looks like this: That's what I thought it was. The isometric perspective made me wonder if the image had been changed.
  17. I can't quite be sure what I'm seeing here JFP in PA. This looks more like a line art illustration than an image. Maybe I'm just not looking at it right....
  18. Yeppers...It had a green tint to it. When I first bought the car, I noticed it was low and I had overfilled it with that Febi S6161. One turkey baster later I thought I had gotten all the overfill. Perhaps not, as the overfill tube does point to the divot. Oh well...At least the mystery of this gave me a multi-fold blessing - including the accidental discovery of an unknown previous water pump failure.
  19. pjq, I've got a question for you....in the older img where you have the red oil rag, just below that you have that pool of oil there. Was it oil or the consistency of grease? I've been slow getting back into my repair because of some arthritis that hit me out of left field after I helped do a community project. In my case, that divot or near to it was full of what I thought was oil, but now appears to be like a thick grease. If it was oil or power steering fluid that had been there for awhile I suppose it would be possible that it would turn into a greasy pool given enough time and heat, b
  20. I've used German Wotor Works to replace my fuel pump....800+ dollars later, my fuel gauge wasn't working, and I was passed by a Prius before I realized I was driving Kilometers per hour instead of Miles per hour. They fixed both issues they caused for free after I raised a stink, but I had little confidence in them afterwards to ever return there. I also had offered to bring an OEM fuel pump from Sunset Porsche, but they wouldn't "guarantee the install" unless I agreed to buy their(identical-oem) fuel pump for a few hundred dollars more. I later learned I could have replaced the fuel pump my
  21. O-rings and other seals will be replaced just as a precaution and as proper maintenance. Getting a new water pump with metal blades is out of the question from the get-go...I thought I was pretty clear that all previous (known) blades were composite, with the last two (pumps) intact and pristine, with zero metal frags in the coolant. Only plastic bits from an unknown previous owner's water pump failure were found. Any new water pumps handled by me for this car will also be composite. I'll look into getting some rubber stoppers...Wish I could find the transom plug as well at Lowes for removin
  22. First the background: Out of necessity, the oil cooler was removed to help remove the 1-3 manifold. Upon its removal, two pieces of an older water pump blade were found. (One large fragment, almost the length of one blade. The smaller one is about the size of the tip of another blade.) These have been lurking in the coolant for at least as long as I've had the car. (2007) I have changed the water pump once already for reasons of preventative maintenance. The one in the car now and the previous one I replaced were not damaged. I don't know if all the fragments of the blades from the previous o
  23. Not finding any answers to the safe and proper removal of the 4-6 manifold, I found myself in a quandary, trying to logically solve the riddle. Disconnected the electrical connections (spark etc. fuel) Removed bolts holding fuel rail (2) Removed the air filter housing...Removed the bolts on the manifold (6) Removed single bolt holding positive crankcase ventilation valve The hose that runs across the engine that connects to the positive crankcase ventilation valve is one tricky bastard. There's not much flex to it, and only a few inches of play within the area of the manifold. In consid
  24. I'll be buying both books once I've ordered the parts, though I have a fairly good memory, I catalog with notes, pictures and video as I work along. I even try to keep bolts and nuts where-ever they came from still attached to each part. I'll be replacing the oil filler tube as well, though it was caked in its own grimy wet oil, it didn't appear to be causing any leak downwards to the block as near as I can tell. I see in your third picture you had disconnected your fuel lines entirely...prior to dropping the engine. Though I don't need to preform any fuel injector maintenance at this time,
  25. I had forgotten I had 6-ton jacks under the stairs, which were overkill of course, but they still hold the car up better than the questionable 1.5 ton jacks. I could have lifted the car higher but I had reached the end of my floor jack's height, even using a carefully placed block of wood for a few inches more of height. I've eliminated the power steering pump as the source as well, but there are two other suspects....co-conspiritors...The boot for the drivers side resonance tube, and the Positive crankcase ventilation valve - i.e. that object that connects to the AOS hose that runs across yo
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.