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The newer model has the built in air diffuser on the bottom, which is cool, but apparently it also requires one to change the spoiler top which was modified. I found a good one of the right colour at a great price from a 986 forum member. :) The only down side was the shipping, which cost 3X what I paid for the cover! :o
Okay, you're referring to the upper half of the tube. Check the other part (hard plastic, bolted on to the crankcase near the alternator) for cracks while you're in there. Any leaks in this will cause you grief.
I can tell you from experience that a hole in the oil filler tube will affect engine performance big-time. They get brittle with age and break quite easily. The part is a bit of a pain to replace but is doable with some patience (and a magnetic pick-up tool for the inevitable times that you drop the bolt! :censored: )
Machster, this is the switch you need.
Pulled off the cover and found that the unit is a 986.355.755.00 So I guess this is a 5.3. So I really don't know why I get that warning symbol but have never had any code associated with it. The symbol doesn't clear either. Everything seems to function normally. ???
I have a fault icon showing in my Durametric ABS section, but there is no fault code. In my search, I found this post from another member: "Just to get back I talked to Owen at Durametric and he nailed the problem down to my 2001 Boxster has the 5.7 version ABS/DSC/PSM instead of the 5.3 version. The year the 5.3 changed to 5.7 was 2002." This may well be my situation as well. How do I know which version I have?
I think that the "hard starting/coke bottle whistle" and the presence of these codes are not necessarily related ( correct me if I am wrong). I have the former situation but not the latter. JFP is probably right for the codes. Try spraying some carb cleaner at the various air connections in the engine bay with the motor idling. If it stumbles or increases in RPM, you've found your problem.
Yes, I have this same problem. A search will reveal numerous posts that cover this topic but I have yet to find the solution. I have changed the gas cap, changed the gas tank bleeder valve ( attached to the filler tube), tested the valves with my Durametric and vacuum gauge, and blew out the lines with compressed air. Same old.
Here's the tool I made from a 4" ABS fitting to remove the gas tank lid. Worked fine.
Here's where it goes:
Thanks to Gelbster in the 986 forum for pointing me to this post by Dale_K in the Pelican forum. In fact, it was the magnetic switch which was not inserted into the space provided for it in the valve. It had fallen out when I pulled the old valve but I didn't notice. I did see it but couldn't find any information on it until I saw this post If this unit isn't working you'll have trouble filling. Also the magnetic switch. A new one comes with a new vent valve.