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Everything posted by AB986
I guess so, Durametric told me they had to design a new cable to support the latest Cayenne and 9x7 series. I'd be curious to know if Porsche has changed the PIWIS hardware in order to support their newest cars. I bought my Durametric cable because I wanted to support this company's effort to reverse engineer the PST2 and PIWIS, knowing it didn't have all the feature but hoping that one day it would. I could have bought a KTS-500 + PST2 software for 500 € that had all I needed for my 986, but I figured that it was better to help the good guys. I'm gonna buy a new cable because I want the latest features, and hopefully we won't have to buy yet another one with the 9x8 series ;)
I did, I haven't gotten a reply yet. Sorry for the rant above. I was so exited when I read your post, then went to their website to download the new version, and ended up very very disappointed. I'm in a bad mood for the day now :huh:
I am very, very disappointed with this. I bought my Durametric cable and software about two years ago, supposedly the software upgrade would be free, and now my cable isn't compatible with their software. So people like me have to buy a new cable to get long awaited features like brake bleeding? From a hardware interface and software points of view, I don't get why the old cable could communicate with most of the modules, if not all, but now the software "needs" a new hardware interface. Or how to make $150 from older customers. Sorry, but this is a rip off.
I removed the throttle body and the intake tube connected to it, and there is oil laying on the bottom of the tube: There is also oil in the tube coming from the AOS: So I guess next step is to change the AOS. I wanted to remove the other intake tube, but there a small tube with a Y stuck in it, and I don't know how to remove it: Can I just yank it without breaking anything? Actually, what the easiest way to remove these intake tubes? Do you push the rubber rings on them or out of them on the manifolds? Thanks to all. (Sorry for the crappy cell phone pictures).
I've made several subwoofer enclosures for home setups and other cars. Sealed enclosures are easy. Vented or passband enclosures are way more difficult to design (even when knowing all the speaker T/S parameters). I found that changing a small thing in the enclosure parameters, like say the vent flare size/shape, and the enclosure behaves differently. Also, sometimes the T/S parameters are way off compared to what the manufacturer's specs say. From my humble experience, I can tell you that changing the Bose woofers for "better" speakers may or may not work, it all depends on how close the parameters of your new speakers will be to the Bose ones. Without knowing the Qts, Qes, Vas and Fs of the Bose speakers to find a close replacement, only luck will give you a better sound. Also, when wiring them, the phase might be reversed as the Bose box is designed to use the rear wave of the speakers. I still have a stock setup in my Boxster, but I will later this year try to improve it. I will probably ditch the stock amp for something better, change the dash speakers, and rewire the Bose box with the two original woofers in series so that I can drive them from my new amp (with active LP filter), and see then how they sound. Until someone finds or actually measures the T/S parameters of these woofers, it's probably better to keep them in the box. I'd be interested to see pictures of your setup. I don't want to give up too much space in the front trunk.
I looked at this speaker's specs, its suitability factor (fs/Qes) is 102.75, which indeed makes it usable in a vented enclosure. Now, in this Bose enclosure, the front volume of the speaker is almost null (the speakers face the carpet in top of the engine compartment), and I'm not sure if it works as a bandpass or vented box, as I've never been able to find the Thiele small parameters for this Bose woofer. I'm not an audio engineer, and for me it's impossible to choose a woofer based on the enclosure and its vent dimensions. The process is usually the opposite, with the box designed from the speaker's parameters. Focal Utopia speakers are top notch but expensive, I personally would not take the risk to buy them just because they fit the hole in the box.
I might be wrong but IIRC the 13KS are better suited in sealed enclosures (I guess all of Focal's subs are designed for sealed, not ported, enclosures). It might not be easy to find a 13cm sub that works well in this Bose box.
Many thanks for yours answers. I understand what the AOS is for and how it's supposed to work, and that a bit of smoke upon startup is not unusual. I'm a bit skeptical however with the fact that oil on the intake pipes is normal. When I bought the car two years ago (60.000 miles) , the engine was dusty but there wasn't any oil deposit on it. I do understand that a tiny bit of oil might get back into the air intake stream, but getting such a layer of oil on the intake tubes suggests (to me) that there is actually too much oil getting back into the throttle body, thus my suspicion that the AOS might not be doing a good job anymore. That or the air intake tubes aren't clamped tight enough somehow. I've never seen photos of Boxster engines like this, either here or elsewhere on the Net. Do other fellow Boxster owners have oily intake tubes like I do? To put my worries to rest, should I remove the throttle body to check if there is too much oil in it? (BTW, I'm not a native English speaker, hopefully this isn't too obvious.)
Hello to all, Long time reader, but first post. This forum is just amazing and I've learned a lot. I have what seems oil on my engine's intake tubes. I don't know for how long it's been there, since last time I opened the engine bay was something like two years ago, but the car's been serviced a year ago at my local dealership and they didn't mention anything, so I assume the engine was clean then. This seems different from the usual symptoms of a failing AOS, from what I've read here on the forum. The car runs fine, only sometimes I get a bit of smoke on cold morning for few seconds. No code on my Durametric. This is a Boxster S, MY02, 80.000 miles.