drpeter

repaired under warranty

Reply on another board says the nubbin is supposed to be there without a hose, doesn't help my open flap problem tho.

After a detail, my exhaust is running loudly, as if it has had the exhaust plug mod done to make it so. While examining the plug, it sems to be in place but I spyed a tube on the underside of the gray box that looks like it should have a vacuum hose attached to it in the direction of the arrow. Is this supposed to be an open nubbin or am I missing something? 

What's a LWFW?

am interested in placing the microphone for the dension into the stock location of the steering wheel cowl. Does anyone have any schematics on how the cover comes off?

I got the initial info here homelink mod However, I am going to try to retrofit this 996 idea using the 997 homelink switches: 996 garage door mod What I found out was that the homelink module is in the front end and runs around $500, and is not a reasonable mod to attempt. It seems more worth while to use the porsche homelink switches and hard wire in the transponders that come with the garage door opener behind the map light dome area above the mirror. Has anyone actually tried this? Are there instructions or diagrams?

Will this description of a switch to the PSE exhaust hydraulics work on a GT3 as described for a 997 or will it mess up the torque adjustments? I am afraid to rip up my carpet to find out that it does not look like this. If you know how the PSE works, it's pretty easy to do. You need to cut the 12 v power wire to the solenoid valve and install a switch in it . You can find the wire by pulling up the carpet trim behind the rear seats and removing the metal electronics cover on the passenger side . At the far left rear corner (looking to the back of the car ) there are two wires going out into the engine compartment to the solenoid valve. One wire is lt. green (ground) and the other is red/purple(12 v ) You can cut either wire, but I cut the power wire . Connect the two wire ends to a wire and run the two wires to the front of the car to where you want the switch. (I installed mine in the ashtray )

Before I attempt this, does anyone know much Loren's install instructions would differ if you were installing it into a 997 with all above the same but WITH NAV? (with bose, no cd changer)

What I found out was that the homelink module is in the front end and runs around $500, and is not a reasonable mod to attempt. It seems more worth while to use the porsche homelink switches and hard wire in the transponders that come with the garage door opener behind the map light dome area above the mirror.

Has anyone figured out how to retrofit a 997 homelink to a GT3?

I just installed an erickson bluetooth car kit and would like to have the PCMII mute when an incoming call comes in. Does any one know where the phone mute is on the PCM II?

If there is a TSB posted, is it an obligation for the service department to perform the repair if the car is under warranty? I took my 2004 996 in to the dealer for several adjustments and asked if they could do anything for the poor range on the remote. He replied; 'that is the way porsche wants it, they like you to be right next to the window when unlocking the car. It is a safety feature." I know there is a TSB for extending the range on the remote, and my VIN# qualifies. I did not push the point because I know that the car needs to go back soon for an oil change. Are they obligated to do the TSB repair if I ask?

I bought the PCM2 from a friend, and am adding it to a 04 996 with already present 6 disc changer and bose amplifier. Before tearing it apart, do I need the fiber optic cable module 996 622 705 00 (radio/pcm with amp and cd changer, not phone) or are all the cables already there when I pull the CDR23?

I am looking for a description on how to do a x74 install, unfortunately x74 is too short of a description for the search engine (suspension searches were not helpful either. ) Does anyone have a link for this install or tips on how to make it go more smoothly?

Loren, thank you.

Gert's site alludes that the PSE has changed in 2005, I am about to order locally and I want to make absolutely sure that I get the most current part for MY04 40th anniv 996. Does anyone know the most current part number for the PSE, and perhaps what is different for 2005? Thank you peter

so you have heard that too.

I have heard there may be warranty issues with the FABSPEED hi performance COLD AIR airbox upgrade kit , has anyone had any experience with this or know whether it affects the porsche warranty?

I would like to replace the centercaps on my 40th anniv so that they can have a silver badge. The finish on theses wheels is unique. Has anyone else replaced their center caps and matched the finish? Ralph booth is recommending polished chrome, yet he admits he has never actually seeing them on this particular wheel. He does great work, but I don't think that is the right answer. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a closer match?

Which PSE is this one 3.4/3.6L? PT # 996 111 984 01 & 996 111 985 01

So what I learned by replacing a 996 keyhead for a GT head is that there are 3 safeguards for the key. The first is the standard metal key. The second is the "guts" or electronics that remotely unlock the door. The third is the capsule that enables the ignition when you turn the key. If you are exchanging key heads you need to exchange ALL three parts. Keep them in separate piles as the guts look exactly alike and it gets confusing when you are concentrating on not damaging anything. As a tip to split the key handle, the GT handle has its tongue and groove along the sides and the front but not the back. The 996 keyhead has a 1/2 inch tongue and groove along the lateral left and right sides only. You will need a thin, at least 1/2 inch blade to safely separate the halves. I took a dulled Personna single edged razor blade along the entire long GT edge and twisted in a anterior posterior motion where the tongue and groove let loose at the long axis of the handle and popped apart without damage. You can do the same with the 996 head but it has an easier entry if you slide a corner of the blade from the beveled top front to get the entire blade to the side and do the twisting there. The guts are exactly the same in both units except the glass capsule is gooed into the GT and snapped into the 996 version. You may need some sticky substance to keep the clean 996 exchanged glass capsule in place in the GT remote. The GT electronic board sits in the remote and the 996 snaps in. Interestingly the inside of the 996 head is more sophisticated than the fancy GT head (altho the glowing GT symbol is cool.) The battery is a CR2032 Lithium button. I have heard the Sanyo batteries are better, But that is difficult to prove. This snaps out easily with the positive facing up. You may as well use new batteries since the range on these remotes is poor. To exchange the key, it is pretty easy to pop the spring loaded metal key holder with the remote open, careful that the little bitty spring doesn't pop off the table. Fine tweezers are helpful. Also keep the orientation of the spring loaded mechanism the same since it is notched on one side to more easily snap the key in place. Seat the rubber tubing/seal in place along the groove to make sure both halfs snap together flushly. Make sure the rubber seal is in its groove and not twisted, the round seal is square-ish in cross section and you will not get a flush snap if it is twisted. Squeeze anterior and posterior together by applying lateral pressure at the tongue/groove one side at a time. good luck

C4 Pazzo, I used this set up, yet was unable to get night illumination and the amber on/off light. I was advised to pull the footwell switch cover off and put it on a TT spoiler switch...... Is that what you did, or did you have a different answer?

agreed

Does anyone know the difference between PSE 000.044.200.21 and 000-044-200-19?

Tough to keep the factory look, unless you mount it loosely and set it in one of the front pockets. With XM you don't change the channels as much as radio, but too often to stick it in the glove box. I bought the slimmer terk because it wedged perfectly into the pocket/tray and the color matched my interior. The delphi requires a car kit that attaches to the cdr 220 radio input. This is termed 'FM modulation' and is not the best sound for purist's, but I have never noticed. It will work on any radio with an antenna, even the 2003 CDR 23 MOST systems. Installing requires removing the radio and patching into power lines, and maybe some drilling, depending on where you want it. If you have never done this before, you should probably have the installers do it. Personally, I don't think the delphi is the most attractive option, but none of them are. It boils down to what you like. drpeter