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trauh

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Everything posted by trauh

  1. trauh
    Took it back to the shop that orinigally replaced the rear window. They corrected it; I think they restretched the fabric top into position, where I think it is held in place by adhesive (not 100% sure). It definitely was not a mechancial issue that I could have fixed.
  2. trauh
    I had the plastic rear window on my 2001 cab replaced two years ago and I just noticed that at the front, left edge of the top it does not meet the plastic trim properly. Looking at the photo you will see the fabric top is lifted slightly above the trim at that front, left edge. Can anyone tell me if this is something I can correct myself, or do I need to trek back to the shop that replaced the rear window? I'm hoping it is just a few screws to move the trim or top back into place... Thanks.
  3. trauh
    The plastic rear window in my 2001 cab was delaminating. I got a referral to a local auto upholstery vendor for replacement, and $450 dollars later it looks perfect. The window is brand new (old one was scratched and opaque) and I washed the car this week to verify no leaks. If anyone else is having this delamination problem, this is a very acceptable solution.
  4. trauh
    Theory #2 was exactly correct. They found excess sealant in the bottom (head must have been opened by the prior owner before I bought the car in 2004) had clogged an opening as you described. They are cleaning out and resealing the head. I just made another donation to the site in appreciation of all the help I received. Thank you again for sharing your experience.
  5. trauh
    They replaced two of the green plugs (one was out, one was seated badly), but they blew back out after running the car for a few minutes. Any suggestions?
  6. trauh
    Bingo! - it was one of those plugs, as you suggested. They are going to replace and test. And guesses as to what might cause one of those plugs to blow out?
  7. trauh
    Early report is valve cover and one plug (not spark plug, sounds like something in the head maybe). That came from the service advsior; waiting to talk with the mechanic to review cost (and underlying cause).
  8. trauh
    It was leaking steady with engine running, so it was picked up today. $125 to get it towed 15 miles. Cost to repair: Stay tuned.
  9. trauh
    I check fluids. Coolant is fine. So is brake fluid. Nothing showed on the oil dipstick so i started the engine to let it warm up. The drip immediatley started and I took a photo (attached). Turned the engine right off and still got no mearurement on the dipstick. Guess its an oil leak. At 29K miles. Darn it. So should I flat bed it or add oil and make the 15 mile drive to my mechanic?
  10. trauh
    I'll take a look at fluid resovoirs and report what I find. I was hesitant to start the engine to warm the oil to check, but the consensus seems to be that would be OK sincex the ngine was runnign just fine when this occured. Thanks. 2001 Cab, manual. 29K miles.
  11. trauh
    I pulled into the garage last night from a road trip and noticed a leak from the right side in the rear. It looks like a rusty, brownish/yellowish fluid. My mechanic is out of town for a week, so I'm trying to decide what to do. I opened the engine compartment and didn't see anything obvious (no fluid spary of blown hose). Any advice as to how to narrow this down so I can decide if its safe to start the engine and drive it in for repair? I did drop some newspaper down, and it looks to be just a cup or so of liquid. Again, any advice appreciated. T
  12. trauh
    I have a 2001 cab with a three spoke carbon fiber steering wheel. The top carbon fiber section has a crack running along it. Does anyone have any experience with this, in terms of either repairing or replacing it?
  13. trauh
    You might want to test that your alarm horn works. They frequently fail... The remotes are new, replaced when the new alarm control was replaced, so I assume the batteries are new too. But I'll try new ones anyway. I'm now getting double flashes, that I thought meant there was something open, but no horn beep. The range of the remotes has always been really short. Ten feet at best. Might have to try the range mod. Tom
  14. trauh
    Found the issue - there was corrosion on the plug that connects to the engine compartment fan. Cleaned it off and it works fine, but... It does not solve my problem. The coolant continues to skyrockets up to 101-105*C when I am in traffic (30 mph or slower) or standing still (normally runs around 95*C when moving on the highway). I have verified that both the low and high speed radiator fans do work, so I am thinking that I need to remove the front bumber and check that the radiators are not blocked with crude. Any other suggestions?
  15. trauh
    Thanks 1999Porsche911. I pretty much did that, except the car was not running (key was in the ON position). I will retry that at home tonight. When I tried, I got no voltage reading at the fan connector (nothing with sensor connected or disconnected). I'll report back if I find anything new tonight. Thank you again. You can test the circuit by warming up the car and then pulling the 2 wire connector off the sensor. Fan should start immediately and then stop when reconnected. If it does not start, disconnect the connector at the fan and test for voltage when the sensor is not connected. If there is voltage, problem is fan motor....if no voltage, then fan is fine and fault is either fuse or harness. It would NOT be the sensor.
  16. trauh
    Grrr - guess that means a trip to the dealer. $140 for two minutes work. As usual, thanks Loren.
  17. trauh
    I've had an issue where the coolant temp rises past the right of the 180 on the gauge when I am moving in traffic or on back roads (30 mph or lower). I used the HVAC control diagnostic to display the coolant temp, and it can run as high as 105C or so. Coolant levels are fine. So I tested the engine compartment blower by disconnecting the sensor on the right side of the engine between the intakes and the fan does not activate (key was in the ON position). Then I put a meter on the fan connector to see if I was getting any voltage - nothing. Pulled fuse B4 and its fine. What next, as I do not think its the fan (given its not getting voltage)? 2001 C2 cab, 24,535 miles.
  18. trauh
    Here is an update. I've added almost 1/2 gallon of distilled water, and it now seems to be holding at the same level. I'll keep an eye on it. I had used a local, independent Porsche shop to change the coolant and test for a leak during spring tuneup, but they must not done as thorough a job bleeding it as they indicated. Sad, as it was an expensive coolant flush. Lesson learned (I hope). Thanks again Loren and company...
  19. trauh
    I just filled the reservoir up again, opened the bleeder value, and took a 15 mile drive. The level did not seem to drop, but when I got home I noticed that the bleeder spring had fallen back over into the deactivated position but the black plastic valve stem was still popped up. E.g., there was something forcing it up (if I pressed down on the black plastic post, it would move down a bit). Is that normal, or could that be a problem?
  20. trauh
    Its my 2001 C2 cab. Original fill was done properly with bleeding. I topped off the reservoir and drove 10 miles. It was back down. No sign of oil mixing with antifreeze. I'm taking the car to the dealer on Monday. Sigh...
  21. trauh
    Last year I replaced the coolant resorvoir tank and the cap (yes, with the latest versions). I noticed that the coolant level managed to find its way back below the Min level several times after the repair. No signs of leakage around the cap or tank. This spring I had the system flushed and replaced the fluid. Three weeks later it is back below Min (and no sign of leak, no drips on the floor, no antifreeze in the oil). Any suggestion about what to check before I head to the dealer?
  22. trauh
    That's odd, as my understanding was that without the switch it was on all the time... Thinking about it, with no connection to a speed sensor, I do not see how the exhaust could cut off without the switch. Does anyone know definitively?
  23. trauh
    I took a roadtrip last week and used a Garmin Navigation system. It included a dashboard that hows your speed using the GOS satellites (this unit uses the newer WAAS technology). When my dashboard showed a speed of 85 mph, the nav unit showed it as 83-84. So assuming that accurate speed means accurate odometer, I guess I am in good shape. Generally no, because usually when you increase a wheel rim measurement, you use the 'Plus one concept' - without going into the mathematics of it, if a chassis was designed with 17" wheels, when the rims are increased to 18" you have a corresponding reduction in aspect ratio (profile) of the tyres, so the rolloing circumference remains roughly the same. The "10%" factor in speedo "error" has been an "achilles heel" for Porsche cars for most of it's existance! I guess, we should all assume ALL 911's (in particular) have app. 10% less mileage than appears in front of them! :) Mark When one of my clients tells me of achieving 153 MPH on the back straight of Watkins Glen, I assume it was 143 :)
  24. trauh
    Vert interesting. So what are the options to disconnect the CD Changer power (I am happy just having ipod alone)? I assume that I can either disconnect something on the back of the radio unit for disconnect a cable at the changer??? Thanks much.
  25. trauh
    I have read every post that I can find, but have not seen a definitive answer about whether the Becker ipod interface (that replaces CD audio in with AUX in of ipod) can be used without the CD changer installed and working. I have done the install, but I can only use the ipod if there is one disk in the changer and the changer is powered on. Has anyone actually gotten it to work without the CD changer? If so, how?
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