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gary996

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Everything posted by gary996

  1. gary996
    Thanks, that's the one and they can be had for around $85. G
  2. gary996
    Hobofob, Sounds like the rebuild is a good option but do some research and see if you can get some references from other customers. And keep driving fast, that's why you bought the Porsche isn't it? I'm in California and I wish I could drive that fast safely here we have too many other cars, too many bad drivers and too many Highway Patrol. Gary
  3. gary996
    Loren, Thanks but this doesn't have the one I was referring to. The pans listed are the normal stock pans. I am referring to a non-stock pan all the way back that would cover the underside of the engine, not depicted here. My understanding is it is an after market item. Gary
  4. gary996
    I was getting some tires installed on my car last week and while on the lift the mechanic and I checked out the underside of my car. It is surprisingly clean with no oil or other leaks! That was a nice find. Back where the engine is and the underside coverings stop one can see where the car has bottomed out and there are nicks on the underside of the engine. Mike at Rennwerks in Campbell CA (good guys) suggested I get a cover. He showed me the three places it would attached, very simple install. Porsche makes them as well as aftermarket. Has anyone added one of these? Does it seam worth it? Where did you get it? Do you have a Porsche P/N? Thanks, Gary
  5. gary996
    Hello All DYI'ers, I've read through all of these and outside of disconnecting the battery so the airbag doesn't blow in your face and the door foam, am I missing any other got'cha's? The door handle on the driver's side "pop'd" in my hand today and now the handle is a little floppy and when away from the flat against the door position the window is slightly down in the open/close ready position. Anyone had this happen to them? It seams as though I've got to replace the latch spring, looks straight forward enough based on these instructions, pictures and posts. Thanks, Gary
  6. gary996
    I just wrote this and then saw this posting... I can lock/unlock from the key and the door switch... Is that it, dealer is the only option? I wanted to post anyway to see if anyone has any ideas about the alarm issue as well. Thanks, G I have two issue that are some what related but not same cause I'm sure. When I got the car a year ago the remote entry was intermittent, now it is not, it doesn't work 100% of the time. Tried the battery to no avail. I read the DIY about extending the range and I'm tempted to open up the bundle in the pillar just to try something there. Any ideas, suggestions, gotcha's out there? Second issue, my alarm goes off randomly when I'm parked in the sun even if the windows and sunroof are cracked. I've had the same problem with Audi's and VW's. Anyone else have this issue? Can I adjust the sensitivity or is this one for the shop? Thanks, Gary '99 C2 Coupe
  7. gary996
    this one really does work, I have done it many times. It was even talked about on "Car Talk" No one seams to know why but it does work. It might have to do with resonance in the skull. G
  8. gary996
    That's what the wife's car is for. Even better if it's an S4!
  9. gary996
    I'll through mine in. 99 C2 tip., I'm the third owner, fourth 911. Bought at 79k miles, 84k now and runs like a top and is my daily driver. I looked at all of the service records and talked to several Porsche mechanics about this engine and this car specifically. The only thing I was warned about was low miles or unusually low miles. I will paraphrase the comments from the shop foreman at the local dealer in Santa Clara CA... Though it sounds good to have low miles these engine are designed to be driven. Sitting around allows the seals to dry out on the top and that can be worse than the normal mileage (8 to 12k a year). He has never seen one of these failures. So I bought it and love it.
  10. gary996
    Good for mine! thank you very much! Gary
  11. gary996
    Hello Loren, New battery same old problem as everybody else. I hope you can help... Becker 1 s/n X5017788 Thank you! Gary
  12. gary996
    Bob, Now that I think about it... you may be right. When you turn on florescent lights the ballast has an extra draw until they warm up and are fully bright, much like starting an electric motor with it's draw as it spool up. That said, if the lights are on and the draw is taken prior to the engine start up diagnostics, the start up ballast draw is gone before the diagnostics and therefore the electrical system looks normal. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Gary
  13. gary996
    There are several very good postings on the Boxster forum about aftermarket HID upgrades. This looks like an inexpensive way to improve your lights that will be fun and easy to do. I am looking for anyone who has done this on a 996 and even better if it's a 1999, 996 C2. It looks like there have been a few minor electrical problems and I am trying to find out if those problems are limited to 986's because they might have a different electrical system than 996's. Here are two of the links to that issue. The first one is the problem thread and the second is a great posting on the conversion that can apply to 986 or 996. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=17691 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10247 As always, thanks for help. G
  14. gary996
    I've been considering buying the kit from Eday also. I've got a 99, 996 C2. Has anyone installed this kit on a 99, 996 C2 and gotten this same problem? Does anyone know how close the electrical systems are in the 986 2001 vs 996 1999? itzbob46's theory doesn't make sense to me. If just having this ballast in the system creates enough draw to make the start-up diagnostics think something is wrong then turning the lights on would make that error even worse, wouldn't it? And if there's that much draw and your in cold weather or any other reason you may need a few extra amps to turn it over or your battery is not 100%, then this could be a problem? Thoughts? I am very interested in this one because my headlights are yellow and dim and I don't want to spend $3K for Xenon. Thanks, Gary
  15. gary996
    I thought I'd pay attention and repost this to the correct forum - 996. I got it back from the body shop. I was backed into and the guy scrapped across my front bumper pretty hard. Luckily all that needed fixing was the bumper, the black trim in the air intake openings and one of the reflector lens where the headlight washers are. All that cost $2200 plus a rental car, which the offender paid for without a sound. That was great and maybe next time he'll look where he's going. I used a shop in Cupertino CA (near San Jose for those who may not know) by the name of House of Miracles. They did a great job and were easy to work with. They actually finished ahead of the promise date. (sand baggers!) They did something very cool, they put plastic rivets in the bumper's license plate wholes and painted them the same color. And they weren't painted in place so they look very good and if I get busted for no front plate (don't park in Palo Alto) I won't mess anything up when I take them out for the install. I would recommend them as they were recommended to me by a Boxster owner. See the attached photos for proof.
  16. gary996
    After all of the effort with removing the headlights, putting in brighter bulbs and wiring the side indicators to blink, no sooner was I on the road (actually parked in front of my brother's house on a VERY quiet street, the only parked car) and the F%&@#*G I$%&%D across the street from him backed into my P-car. :cursing: He at least didn't try to hide his transgression and came right to the house and fessed up. He even drives a small car, we are on the same road as this guy! :drive: :censored: Of course he thought it was just a cosmetic thing, no insurance involvement, pay to have it rubbed out. But anyone who drives that F%&*#$G bad doesn't know a thing about cars or Porsche owners. I pointed out to him that he actually move the front bumper toward the passenger's side of the car about 1/4" and cracked that headlight on that side. If he wasn't about 6" taller than me and truly apologetic and willing to pay for everything I might have strangled him. :soapbox: Bottom line, he agreed to pay for everything as it was clearly 100% his inability to drive (my words). And now the reason for the post. I am in San Jose CA and need to find a Porsche worthy body shop. I can go to the local dealer on Stevens Creek and use them but I thought someone out there might have a suggestion for a great shop in the South SF Bay area? All suggestions welcome. Thanks, Gary
  17. gary996
    Thanks All, In my own defense and by looking at Tool Pants' picture and wvcary's description AND reading the owners manual, I was in fact in the hole which can be seen in Tool Pants' photo on the upper right, half covered by the trunk liner, with the rubber plug! The owner's manual says to "remove the rubbber plug" but the light removal hole has no plug in my car but he upper one does. That was the problem. Now I have to make sure all of the twisting and turning of that nylon socket didn't screw anything else up. Got it now. Life just like cars, everything is easy once you get it in the right hole. Thanks again. Gary
  18. gary996
    100% positive, that's why it's so strange. Thanks, G
  19. gary996
    1999, 996 C2. Am I missing something? I follow the owners manual but I can't get my headlights out. I used a 5mm Allen (not the Porsche tool kit one) it fits and turns the nylon nut but I can't get either of them out. 180 degrees, 45, 90, 360, 720 clockwise, counter clockwise, I can't get them out. Now I want to wait until later but I don't know if they are loose or locked so I'm really scr...ed! Help! Any suggestion? I'm at a lose
  20. gary996
    I bought a used 1999 996 C2 a few months back with 79K after 3 air cooled (one I rebuilt with low miles on the od.). Ran the car fax, talked to the dealer mechanics and service writer where it had been maintained and they said it was strong and had been maintained by the book. The owner, a woman doctor, had driven it regularly but lightly. After reading about the 996 engine failures and talking to the local shop foreman (he better know his stuff) in generalities about 996 reliability before he knew the specific car he told me the following. Low miles does not equate to good. These engines are designed to be driven not sit and wait for good weather. Boxer engines (the engine layout not the car) will dry out if they sit and then leak and have issues related to dry seals. If it's got between 60k and 80k for my year and there are no leaks or other obvious engine problems, you've got a good one. Bottom line, drive it, enjoy it, eat less fat and carbs don't smoke and both you and the car should last a long time. But you never know, there's always the proverbial bus put there tomorrow! G
  21. gary996
  22. gary996
    I truly love this post! I didn't read all of them but got the gist early and often. I haven't owned a P-car for about 14 years until recently with my 996 and I started "blinking" like we used to do and NO ONE blinked back, so I have stopped. I figure it is the new owners who have bought without the sense of tradition as us old owners (my 4th 911). If they don't know why the ignition is on the left then they won't wave or blink. I will start blinking again, for me. Like holding open a door and the stranger doesn't say thanks, I'll keep doing it. Maybe we can get it going again! I'm up for it. Gary
  23. gary996
    Hi John, Nothing like it is there? This is my 4th 911 and once you've been bitten you just can't get it out of your blood, like... I'll let your imagination fill that in. If feels like one piece of metal doesn't it! If you or anyone else out there ever get a chance try HWY 89 between Lake Tahoe and Mt Shasta in Northern CA. It was written up by Car and Driver as one of the 10 Best Sports Car Roads in America (I must admit about 20 years ago, when I did it in my 1980 SC) but what a ride about 10 cars for about 250 miles of the California Sierras, but that was 20 years ago. Enjoy that car, the driving, the way it makes you feel, the way it is connected to the road. :D Gary
  24. gary996
    I was doing front brakes on my 99 C2 and when the car was up we turned the wheels side to side by the rotor during the work. We notice some noise like metal rubbing against metal coming from what I would guess to be the steering box, behind the cowling and dead center between the wheels. When we turned the wheels by the steering wheel it was still there but not as bad. Now don't get me wrong, it's not loud and it doesn't sound real bad, you can't feel anything in the steering. It just sounded like metal sliding against metal. I am just wondering if this is a harbinger of bad things to come? Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks
  25. gary996
    A couple of important items not covered in the threads, 1) The factory recommends replacing the allen bolts that hold the calipers on when you change out the rotors, not a bad idea and they are only a couple of bucks each. I don't have the part number with me but that won't be a problem if you describe what you want. 2) The torque setting is 65flbs on the allen bolts and 95 on the wheel lugs 3) Be careful with the wear sensors. The cable between one sensors was too short on the factory replacements so it won't fit in the holder clip. I used a high temp. nylon cable tie. I am in CA and bought everything from Sunset Imports, they were great and helpful, don't forget the bolts, 2 per axle. Depending on if there are one or two of you, your tools and expertise, it could take 45 to 90 minutes. It's very easy! And doing it yourself (with a friend) is not only fun but can save you hundreds of dollars. Buy smart too. Enjoy!
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