gary996

Either way it was replaced along with all of the collapsed hoses, spark plug cables, spark plugs (they all needed it), fluids replaced and transmission filter and fluids and it runs better than it has in a while. The whole thing cost a lot but it was all worth it.

I"m not too sure about that. I saw the car on the hoist and saw where the AOS is (before) the job and I have no idea how you could do it without dropping the engine. There is no room anywhere.

The way it was explained is that It sucked so much vacuum that it was pulling coolant through the internal seals and the seals failed on the AOS along with some hoses colapsing and then cracking so when it was shut off things leaked out.

After 3 weeks and 3 shops (the last being the REAL experts, Rennwerks in Campbell CA) I got diagnose and fixed. It was the Oil Separator, the valve failed causing excessive vacuum, collapsing hoses and a host of other related seal failures. Including oil and coolant all over the place, internal and external. I was shown the parts and the mess but now it runs great and I didn't need a new motor. Because of the tiptronic it required the engine to be dropped so of course that added cost but I'm thankful that's all it was and the 3.4 is still running great at 120k miles. Thanks for the input and feedback which made me get it towed to "my" shop (across town) instead of throwing my hands up and telling the first guys to just fix it.

It is the "intermediate shaft" not "intermediate valve" he misspoke. They had a Porsche engine guy check it out, he said shaft, supposedly. Noise is most likely shaft, doesn't know anything about cylinder scoring, not likely, yet. Lots of blue smoke when started. Second opinion is shaft needs replace about $3k. Just had it towed to Rennwerks in Campbell, awaiting third opinion. Anyone had any experience with replacing intermediate shaft?

The pistons aren’t seized, yet. The noise was coming from the whole engine area not one specific location so when they dug in they discovered the real source. It appears that the oil stopped flowing do to this valve and this has scored several cylinders. I didn’t drive much at all once it started making the noise. Seizing is emanate at this point. They can remove a part of the oil circulating system so assess the cylinder damage, at no charge, but it shouldn’t be run and once they open it up then I will know if it’s a rebuild or replace. Rebuild sounds like chasing bad money with good at this point anyway. There was no drop in oil pressure. That is one of the things I was asking the community about. It seems that there should have been some change in oil pressure.

I need help, input, ideas or condolences. A couple of days ago my '99 996 C2 started making this horrible whining noise that at first sounded like the belt or tensioner (idler pulleys) and it quickly got worse. Yesterday I drove it to one of my shops and they checked it out and gave me a quote to replace the pulleys and I gave them the go-ahead. Well I got the call today that once they started in it was not the pulleys but it was a bad "intermediate control valve" which was preventing the oil from doing its job and therefore the noise was pistons not getting lubricated properly, ouch! He is looking into this on his side but thinks that the damage is done and it's either a big bill or time to look into a new engine. Does anyone have any input on this? Do I need to look for a 3.6 liter engine? What do they cost? Or should I have a burial at sea? HELP.

First one, white 1974, 911 coupe, 26 Second, black 1980, 911SC coupe, 30 Third, guards yellow, 1982, 911SC Targa, 33 Current, silver 1999, C2 coupe, 51 I got the bug racing HO cars in the 60's with all my buddies, 908, and Ford GT-40. My first speeding ticket was doing a dealer trade swapping a car from Santa Clara to Livermore (there was a dealer there in 1976) written up for 75 was doing over 90. I was 20 and they paid ME to drive the cars. When I bought my first my mom said, "it's about time, you loved those things since you were a kid". Still do at 55.

I'm finally in a position to spend a few dollars on some needed car maintenance. I replaced the drivers door window tracks this past weekend, it was much easier than I was prepared for, which was a great relief, but I digress. My front end is getting a little clunky and so is the back for that matter. I took it to the shop and they put it on the rack and tweaked everything and looked into all of the nooks and cranny. Here's the diagnosis; 1) Motor mounts need replacing and I did look with them and one is real bad cracked and bulging the other is not good, just cracked. 2) Trans. mount, maybe but not sure, will remove the bottom plastic and I said be ready to replace it but not sure. 3) The front control arms bushings are bad and cracked and may be causing a little metal on metal thus the clunking over rough road. 4) I'm just glad it's not the struts, though it might be and we won't know until the control arms are done. (?) Questions; 1) Has anyone changed their own motor mounts? I'm pretty skilled with this would be a driveway job and it seams tougher than brakes and rotors and the window rails too. 2) I won't even think about doing the control arms myself. Has anyone had this work done for reasons as stated above? Heard of this type of issue? Your results? Your cost? Of course I'm in CA the SF Bay Area which tends to distort $$$. Thanks, Gary

My '99 996 C2 has 119k on it and runs GREAT. I need new motor mounts and control arms, hopeful not struts yet. I was at the garage today and under the car while it was on the lift, no leaks, nothing that would even make you think there ever was a leak. Even the mechanic said it looked good. Pretty impressive for a car with this mileage and driven like it should be. So the motor and trans. (tip) are strong as ever but the rubber parts of the suspension are getting dry so it's time to start replacing them. (please see my other post of today)

From what I remember, and I've pulled the panel a couple of times now, if you are 100% sure you've got all of the bolts give it a good tug. The clips are **** strong (that's a good thing). If you've got the panel up from the window sill you can try and slid your hand behind it from the top and/or bottom, SLOWLY and this may help to direct where the force is needed. I hope this helps.

I've had 4 911's, '74, '80 (grey market), '82 Targa and my current '99 996C2. Though the air cooled were great and some say "real" p-cars, I would think the 996 or 997 is the way to go. An air cooled engine is not as tightly tolerances as the water cooled which makes for some issues (go ahead and correct me if you disagree out there). If the air cooled were truly superior then way did the start water cooling the heads in the race cars? Porsche adage, "racing improves the breed". Oil and brakes are easy to do yourself (less oil too in the water cooled). I got mine in '07 with ~80k and now have ~107k miles, no problems. I had all of the service records and even went to the dealer where it was maintained and looked over the computer with the service writer (I know that was a rare gift). Any way, 25k miles 2.5 years, front brakes and rotors myself, $800, rear brakes myself $225, complete oil change and tune up $700, replaced water pump $800 (that was preventative). Car cost $25k 3 years ago. Tell me one car in the world that will out preform that car, made that well, full lather, stereo with CD changer (I know old school) for $25k. A Hundia? But I digress. One big piece of advice that I have heard from many people including Porsche mechanics; Low miles does not equate to a good buy. These engines were made to be driven (not abused), low miles can mean the were left to sit a lot and that dries seals and can lead to leaks which can lead to... you get the point. Buy a car that was driven with love not put in a garage to show to friends. Last thing, if someone in a P-car coming the other way waves or nods or flashes their light smile and do it back. Gary

Thanks, nothing different here and I will replace the vib. pads so more clearance is needed. Best so pull the calipers, I set them on a 5gl. bucket and it all works fine.

Off the top of my head, if you don't remove the calipers then you don't need to change the bolts, right? Are you suggesting that the pads be compressed and wedged out in the gap between them and the rotor? The issue isn't cost but convenience in going and getting something that may not be needed. Gary

Hello All, I am about to replace my front calipers, rotors not needed this time. I got the pads and wear sensors but forgot to get the bolts, which they recommend you change every time as well. Anyone have any thoughts on the necessity of that? I could see that there could be heat/cool cycle issues that could affect the integrity of the bolts over time but has anyone seen this or any reason why I can't just wait until the next change? '99 C2, tip, coupe, daily driver 107k miles, runs like a top. Thanks, Gary

It's Sat. the 30th and I just installed a Philips HID kit, 5300k. I was very easy to do. Took about an hour but I tend to be methodical. Can't wait to drive it tonight. I went with Philips because, being in the semiconductor/electronics industry I could in no way trust the quality on the Chinese cheapos. The Philips is DOT approved and made in the Mother Land of our beloved cars. Got the Philips on Ebay for $179, best price I could find. If anyone wants any details let me know. I'll have comparison photos after dark.

I'm at 102,000 with no issues. New water pump at 90,000 just because it's a good idea. Still runs strong. I'd love to get it on a dyno and see how much power is lost from new spec. 3.4 with tip. daily driver around 10k a year since I bought 2.5 years ago. Maintained by the book since new.

Ya I've seen them. They are nice on there own but I think an embroidered logo would look classier, if something like a logo on a jacket can be considered classy. Thanks, Gary

Has anyone added a rear window wiper to their 996? It could really use one and it doesn't look like it would be hard but looks can be deceiving. Any gotchas?

Nothing high tech here. Does anyone in the greater SF Bay Area know where I might get a Porsche logo embroidered on a jacket? Every place I've checked wants to charge me an art charge so I was hoping someone has had something like this done so there is not art charge needed. I don't want to sew on a patch, it won't look right. Thanks, Gary

94k, all original, daily driver, no issues at all, no leaks, nothing, burns on oil, no smoke, runs like a hose, as my old Texas buddy would say. Seriously considering changing the water pump. Any input on that?

Okay, sounds like a winner, thanks. G

Well I have been watching this DIY thread for a long time now and I am getting ready to do my HID upgrade. I have two questions... 1) has anyone had any experience, positive or negative with any of the many other HID kit suppliers? The good people at CQ are going to be around $180 for me (that included the privilege of living in the Golden State surcharge, no shopping charges) and they won't let me pick it up even though they are within easy driving range. On ebay they range form $60 up, including shipping. 2) my lenses have some burnt marks on them. Has anyone dealt with that? Once I open everything up I was thinking about getting a bottle brush or something in there to clean it off. Other ideas, suggestion? Don't do it? Thanks, Gary996