grover

Update: Becker send me a price quote when I asked, and estimated a week to repair. I'm not sure how releasable the quote is, but the estimate for diagnosing and fixing the clicking was comparable in cost to replacing a tire. Cheaper than buying a new radio, I guess. Still hurts! http://www.beckerautosound.com/shipping%20info/index.htm

My 04's radio is clicking worse than ever, so I finally decided to try to get it fixed. Of course, Becker sent me the typical "send it in, THEN we'll tell you how much it costs" email today. Has anyone had their clicking radio repaired? What's it actually take?

Oh, it's still not compatible. I believe he's referring to this fix, which is freaking awesome, but unfortunately a tad out of my budget: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=20442

:eek: Wow, that's pretty cool! I just wish it were $2000 cheaper!

My 04 Boxster S's CDR23 is dying and if I'm going to shell out to repair/replace it, I'd much rather put in a decent modern radio that that obsolete POS. Are there any options yet?

Hey, this opens up a SLEW more tires that just don't come in 205/40-17, including Star Spec, RE-01R and Pilot Sport PS2. Is there any drawback to the larger tire? Does is mess up the speedometer/odometer or screw with the PSM at all? Is there any difficulty getting 225/45-17s on stock rims? Are new spacers and bolts required? FYI, if anyone is interested, I compiled a list of Tirerack's testing of high-end tires: Looking strictly at Tirerack's dry track scores (225/45R17 on a 2008 BMW E90 325i Coupe for the first 4, and a 2006 for the others): 8.67 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 8.64 Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD07 8.64 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec 8.58 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD 8.39 Kumho Ecsta MX Extreme Performance Summer 8.30 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 8.26 Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R 8.24 Sumitomo HTR Z III 8.23 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 8.20 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Pole Position 8.15 Continental ContiSportContact 3 7.96 Yokohama ADVAN Sport 7.46 Hankook Ventus R-S2 Z212 0.98-0.99g BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KD 0.98g (=) Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD07 0.98g (-?) Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 0.98g (-?) Kumho Ecsta MX Extreme Performance Summer 0.97g (-?) Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 0.96g (+?) Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec 0.96-0.99g Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R 0.96g (-?) Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 0.95g (+?) Sumitomo HTR Z III 0.95g Hankook Ventus R-S2 Z212 0.94-0.96g Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Pole Position 0.94-0.97g Continental ContiSportContact 3 0.92g (+?) Yokohama ADVAN Sport They unfortunately switched cars between some of the tests, and tires they tested twice (even on the same car) scored differently in subsequent tests, but I'm hoping the overall numbers are at least reasonably comparable for a cross comparison. Given the apparent +/- 0.04g margin of error in Tirerack's testing and the 0.04g spread between 11 of the 12, it's hard to really say any of these tires is a clear winner or loser per Tirerack's testing. The Neova's did exactly 0.98g in 3 tests on two different cars, though, so they're at least consistent!

Are you planning to sell your old wheels?

My 04 Boxster S was built in Stuttgart. The paint does seem a bit thin, but I hate no real point for comparison.

Boxster S is an awesome car to race stock, but there's not a whole lot of room left to improve it, the engine compartment is too cramped to do much, and the other improvements are so small as to not be worth bumping yourself out of stock class to make them. If you want to tinker, add a turbo, etc, you might want to consider another car. Miatas and corvettes are always popular for that ;) But I think you'd be hard pressed to find a car as fun as a Boxster S with so little effort required to make it competitive :)

One of my remotes isn't working, either. It's a 996 key (PO got it because it was in stock and compatible, but it's missing a rear trunk button) that worked just fine until the battery died. Now, it doesn't work. The lights blink when I push the button, but the car does nothing. I tried the TSB twice, but it didn't work. To be clear: reversing the polarization does not actually reverse the polarization and change +3V into -3V, but effectively just shorts the two battery terminals together? Anyhow, I removed it ten seconds, backwards for 3 seconds, and go. Same thing- lights blink normally, but it doesn't work.

Not to dissuade you, but I honestly don't notice a lick of difference between my rear windscreen on or off the car. I do still keep the rollbar baskets in, though.

I cleaned the jets, appeared to be no problems there. And then took the piping apart to discover the one fitting is cracked where the tang hooks into it, which is why it's letting go under pressure. I put some electrical tape on it to reinforce it. If that doesn't work... looks like an inexpensive enough part, I'm more concerned about damage to the hoses trying to change it.

The windshield washer fluid connector that plugs into the T under the windshield/ behind the battery won't stay in place. I get one, maybe two squirts, and it pops loose. I've taken it apart and there doesn't seem to be any damage or wear. I'm tempted to wrap electrical tape around it to keep it in one piece, but was concerned it may be a symptom as opposed to a cause, and is performing some sort of pressure regulation and pops loose to prevent something more difficult from popping loose. It's part#21 on this diagram: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ost&id=7942 Is this a symptom or a cause? When the car is stopped, the washer fluid doesn't make it halfway up the windshield. At highway speeds, it does a great job, though.

If the stock spoiler does nothing at low speeds, then why did Porsche design it to retract, instead of simply having a fixed spoiler? My assumption was that the aerodynamic profile changes at different speeds, and that it's less drag/more fuel efficient to have the spoiler retracted at low speeds. And obviously did something to the air flow at higher speeds to improve stability. Is there any literature anywhere that explains the aerodynamics of this car? I've always assumed the underbody paneling contributed significantly enough to the downforce that wings weren't needed. Also, what's with this 157mph stuff? My 2004 Boxster S has a listed top speed of 165mph :P I haven't yet had it over 100mph (can't afford that scale of a ticket!), but I'd like to do a HDPE at VIR soon, which I might be able to get better than 140mph.

http://www.f2pelectronics.com/category/100/ Looks like $80 for the kit.

In the video they have, it sounds like they'll take the failed MAF and do a full diagnostic and chemical analysis on it. They talk about having tested 107 MAF sensors so far, and give a breakdown of what they found. So, yeah, they MAY replace the MAF for you :)

So... how do we fix it so our cars reads ACTUAL speed and not some made-up speed? Just a matter of recalibration? Or is this another thing that can only be done by a Porsche dealer?

What year is this car? 01-04 doesn't have a manual bowden cable, just the electric release.

At this point, there's nothing you can do but jump the trunk open, and deal with the damage after that. Stand by with a fire extinguisher and baking soda. If it really did explode, then there's nothing left in the battery to carry current, and it will be unaffected.

I just joined PCA and was thinking about waxing and vacuuming my car and going to the Concours next weekend... but q-tips in the locks? WOW, that's not for me! I might show up and spectate, though.

Mine's reading about 3mph fast at 70mph, as near as I can tell. Helps cut down on tickets, I suppose. Unless, like us, we mentally adjust for it ;)

Why not use blinkers like in the US, then? Ah well, I suppose it just another example of "they do it differently."

Personally, I always thought the rear fog lights were dumb idea in the US, as they're bright enough to ruin people's night vision, and people will just think you're riding your brake pedal. I just mentally wrote it off as a european thing and don't use them. FYI, my rear fog lights light up both side equally (2004 Boxster S). Another dumb question here- what use is the left-side/right-side parking lights? Why would anyone ever just want to use half their parking lights?

Why not just lock your car? The key-cap seems superfluous and an unnecessary inconvenience.

New 04 Boxster S owner here. I've been autocrossing about once a month all summer, but haven't done any DEs yet. Should I be changing my break fluid annually, or is the standard maint interval acceptable? Doesn't seem like a 50 seconds of hard braking couple times a morning, 7 or 8 times a year is going to make that much of a difference.