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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    Your temp is normal, 94C is certainly not hot for this engine. As for the water in the oil., it is very rare if not extremely rare for water to show up in the oil because of a failure. In almost all cases assuming a cracked cylinder head or failed oil cooler, the oil will show up in the coolant (due to pressure differential). If you are not seeing oil in the coolant, then you should look at the previous posts and read other posts with very similar question to yours.. Eitther you have moisture leaking in from a faulty oil filler tube, or you aren't getting the engine hot enough and driving it long enough to burn off the excess water vapor in the crankcase. Try to clean the oil filler cap, take it for a good drive and monitor to see if it comes back. If you want to be certain you don't have a crack in the cylinder, just pull the spark plugs and inspect the condition, if you see clean pistons or cylinder you know that is the problem, however chances are this is not the case based on your description.
  2. logray
    Or just remove the gas and use it elsewhere. ;)
  3. logray
    I certainly have not seen many posts about this problem, so you should feel lucky it is covered by warranty. Parts in the used market would also not be very expensive if you have a common interior scheme.
  4. logray
    I'm sure you could weld it, but there is fuel very very close to there, the fuel rails, fuel lines on the drivers side. Be very careful. Also check ebay or a used parts place like oklahomaforeign, dcauto.com, etc. As for the bolts, here is a pic of what you are dealing with... if you remove the mufflers and heat shields you might be able to access the top most bolts, it's worth checking out, I can't remember. In the top of the pic you see a flat piece with three bolt holes. Thats where the top of the bracket mounts to. There are two bolts holding the top of the bracket.
  5. logray
    I was at a Porsche wrecker in Rancho Cordova not too many weeks ago and they were selling a used engine out of a 996 that had bad front end damage, but the engine was fine. You might consider upgrading to the 3.4L out of a 996.
  6. logray
    Some say appx every 50 k miles. When I replaced mine at ~ 70k miles it was still fine.
  7. logray
    Yes
  8. logray
    If the engine is out put some drip pans under the various hose openings as well as cover them with rubber bands and rubber gloves. Depending on how long, put some rat or mice bait or traps in there too. As far as an engine, if you are looking for the best of the best check out flat 6 innovations. Otherwise, I recommend trying to find a used engine instead of going down the rebuilt option.
  9. logray
    94F or 200F is about normal operating temp for this car, nothing to worry about there. As for the water (prob yellow substance on your filler cap), try to clean it really well, then take it for a good drive, once the engine is warm, keep the RPMs between 3500 and 4500 (or short bursts above). See if it comes back by following that procedure (and try to follow that driving behavior going forward).
  10. logray
    I use the original Porsche part, but I don't think it would do much if the full weight of the car lands on something. It might protect against minor dings or prevent some punctures/etc. Better than nothing I suppose. IIRC there is a much beefier aftermarket unit available, but I can't seem to remember who makes it.
  11. logray
    I don't think you are hearing the IMS bearing... that one doesn't whine. The trans can start to whirring/whine when the internals wear. The engine does sound a little like a sewing machine if it is bone stock... If you have gearbox whine it's usually pretty distinguishable from an engine whine. Can you get the car on a ramp or dyno and poke around to see where the noise is coming from?
  12. logray
    Oh sorry to hear that. What was the cause for failure? Is the engine in car or out, that will dictate the procedures for storage.
  13. logray
    1531 can be a number of things... variocam solenoid on bank 1 is bad. wiring. or DME. Spend some time with search 1531 is covered very well here. The fact that you can actuate variocam manually leads me to believe your DME might be faulty.
  14. logray
    Accessing the bolts at the top of the bracket with engine installed will be difficult or impossible.. This might require lowering the engine safely a good 6" or so. Would have to look at it to be certain.
  15. logray
    ;)
  16. logray
    Nope... Radiator fans will only engage in certain situations. They should both engage together. There is no function where only one will start. If not, it's a ballast, fan motor, fan obstruction, wiring, voltage, or relay problem. Basically... When A/C is turned on low speed. When car is hot (middle of 0 in 180 on temp gauge) low speed. When car is really hot (right side of 0 in 180 on temp gauge) high speed. (there are more conditions, but those are most common).
  17. logray
    Otherwise, three key words for you... Machine shop, Heli-coil, Time-sert
  18. logray
    Worn dampers can certainly make the ride more harsh, since their ability to soak up bumps is dimishished (usually takes them longer to respond, which translates to you feeling it more). I would check all of the bushings at 80k, also the condition of the tires, and ensure proper air pressure (factory pressure will make the ride less harsh), pressure has a bigger impact on the ride quality than most would think.
  19. logray
    Aside from being completely illegal on public roads in the US... The front end of this car tends to lift at higher speeds, since most of the weight on the 911 is in the back. If a little forward rake is dialed in, or add a splitter, or upgraded front bumper with rear wing it can help reduce the affect. Still though, at 100mph + my car has not exhibited these problems, I would make sure your tire pressures are proper, wheels are balanced, wheels mounted and torqued properly, alignment good, rotors not warped, and suspesion bushings/components are in good shape.
  20. logray
    It won't be any easier to hotwire based on what key you use... the car is pretty much impossible to start without a key containing a tranpsonder pill programed for the immobilizer. The only difference with using the valet key head (without the remote buttons) is that it you have to use the door lock to lock/unlock the door and activate/deactivate the alarm, versus pressing a button on the remote. Also, if you have a cab or remote trunk opening capabilities, those functions can not be actuated remotely. Other than that it will function just the same as a regular key.
  21. logray
    Welds can break, bolts can rust and break, bolts can work their way free...
  22. logray
    Have you measured your crank? Have you measured the rod big ends? Have you assembled the carrier to torque spec without the crank and measured the bores? If you are over 5 thou clearance I would not try to re-use those parts, even with oversize bearings, you are just asking for trouble... there should be no good reason why the crank would be worn to that point (and if there was a reason, i.e. spun bearing, the integrity of the crank is questionable at best).
  23. logray
  24. logray
  25. logray
    The ultimates both fit one in front of the other, starting from the very corner of the seat. The holders themselves dont get in the way of the psngr unless you have a tall drink in both holders.
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