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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    I thought the same, but got very deep into this issue including verifying pin for pin the cable I have with the Porsche PST2 cable, in the the end the cable I have is the identical cable and part to what Porsche sells. What the issue probably boils down to is you actually need the proper PC card for this particular voltage. Of course, this only applies to the ME5.2.2. My feeling and research is that Porsche very tightly controlled the actual PST2 PCMCIA cards and the cards don't go far from the original PST2 units (if they do they probably just went back to Porsche instead of finding their way into a laptop or KTS500). In other words any clone unit is almost certainly not using the Porsche PC card and thus does not have the circuitry for (or does have it, but the firmware on a "ISO" card does not recognize the command to apply) this voltage. In any case, having used the KTS500 PST2 for many years doing just about every other coding or diagnostic function, this was the only hiccup I ran into, which I was able to overcome (with some help from several bright individuals on this board of course). :)
  2. logray
    PM sent.
  3. logray
    Hmmm... Well I've read from a worldwide renown reputable engine builder that he has seen "ring seal loss" in as little as 25,000 miles. Some off the top of my head ideas: Perform the leak down test and compression test as per my advice above. Perhaps the test results were skewed and before you start taking action or going further.... Perhaps try running straight SAE30 break in oil for 200 miles. Drain, and replace. Or just drive it without worry?
  4. logray
    Thanks as always Richard! I looked through some of the wiring diagrams and this pin seems to be absent from future DME versions. In addition, I remember being told this by a DME software engineer, but just wanted to be absolutely certain since I haven't flashed a 7.2 or 7.8 myself.
  5. logray
    Yes. Normal, again depending on temp and other factors.
  6. logray
    Sport Techno 18x11 RO 63 on a 99 911 996 NB NA. Didn't have to rework the fender..
  7. logray
    If you repeat cylinder 5 test and add a little oil into the cylinder and the numbers improve then it could be due to worn compression rings and or cylinder wear. Lokasil is known to oval, how many miles on the car/engine? If the numbers are the same it could be due to valve seat issues. You might want to consider performing a leak down test which will help pinpoint whether air is leaking through the intake/exhuast valves and/or crank case (through the piston rings). Comparatively, 4 is also a little low. Is that a reason to not drive the car and worry about it though? I don't think so.
  8. logray
    I'm 99.999% certain on this, however... just to be 100% certain. Can anyone confirm this? On a DME 5.2.2, you need to apply 12v to pin 12 OBD (pin 60 DME) during flash. However 7.2 and 7.8 do not have this requirement, correct? Thanks!
  9. logray
    How long does it stay on?
  10. logray
    True RFM! And to add to that: Any engine that is manufactured after that 2006 date (possibly re-manufactured in 2005 or later) are also showing up with the larger 22mm bearing with a similar load rating to that of the original dual row intermediate shaft bearing. So you could end up with an early model year engine that has been re-worked with the larger bearing... as we've seen a couple 3.4L engines pass through here on rt.org with one installed. As well as is documented on LN engineering's IMS website.
  11. logray
    From your description it sounds to me like the pressure sender would be a likely culprit.
  12. logray
    Hopefully your car was under CPO so there was no out of pocket! The new M96/M97 based engines, although they have a larger unserviceable bearing are still susceptible to failure. Only the newest 911 engine has the IMS removed from the design entirely. Edit: drive it hard! :)
  13. logray
    That sounds like a good next step! Please let us know how it works. Thanks!
  14. logray
    Just curious, does anyone have any experience with LN engineering's power steering cooler product? http://www.lnengineering.com/store/catalog/inline-power-steering-cooler-m96m97-my9708-p-132.html "...Do you find you are having consistent problems with power-steering fluid boil-over and pump cavitation? You may not even be aware that its happening until you see the drip make it to the floor, or have a steering groan and, at times, high steering effort ? Maybe you seem to have to add steering fluid often despite evidence of a leak. Then maybe it's time for adding a power steering cooler to your Boxster, Cayman, or 911..."
  15. logray
    So perhaps then it is glued down or perhaps stitched into the plastic somehow?
  16. logray
    Since you mentioned fuel and you've already swapped the spark plug and coil pack, you could try to swap the fuel injector from cylinder 5 to 6 and see if the misfire follows. Here's a link to the misfire troubleshooting guide:
  17. logray
    Hello there! This thread might help you out...
  18. logray
    Thanks RFM for the great info as always! :)
  19. logray
    Hello! With your super small very low res pics, it's tough to say how you could "polish it out" because it's nearly impossible to see how far gone it is or whether any polishing would actually work to make it like "new" again. It's hard to say if you can remove the gear indicator part without damaging it, Porsche does not list that as a separate replaceable part, and at least on my 996 standard shifter, it would take someone experienced in leather craftsmanship to do it right without damaging it (if even possible). And if you aren't removing that piece to paint it, then may I ask why you would want to remove that piece in the first place? Why not just mask off the leather or plastic around it and then polish it? Depending on your cars options, replacement might make more sense. For example, you can buy a new one for about $100 http://www.suncoastp...2407506EAN.html Or get a used one for even less at appx. $65. http://dcauto.gotdns...r=&commit=Searc
  20. logray
    1/2 gallon of water should be fine. The car holds 6 gallons of coolant, so it wasn't diluted down too much. You could get a cheap coolant hydrometer at any auto parts store and check the concentration of the coolant, but I'm sure it's fine, esp. for FL driving. If it was regular tap water you might want to consider a flush and refill (using only Porsche or compatible coolant), because the minerals in tap water could cause deposits to build up. But in that quantity, it might not be enough to worry about.. This is why distilled water is always recommended for top offs. Turns out water is actually better at dissipating heat than anti-freeze! Race cars run pretty much straight water for coolant.
  21. logray
    Sounds like a good diagnosis of the issue to me, check the fluid level in the P/S pump. The pulley should not have noticeable play in it when moving it by hand. I had this problem in a Jeep once, ignored it, and the P/S pump literally exploded on me while driving, covering the engine internals with P/S fluid. Had to get it towed 100 miles. Was not a fun experience, bad headaches for weeks due to the smell of burning P/S fluid.
  22. logray
    You can have the system pressure/vacuum tested for leaks. Inexpensive way relatively to determine if it is bad. Or just replace the cap and/or tank as has been mentioned.
  23. logray
    Possible air in coolant system or coolant system underfill. Possible bad AOS.
  24. logray
    Search "bleed coolant" for proper bleeding procedures. Put some on your finger does it smell/feel like anti-freeze?
  25. logray
    Yes, the data I provided is for your car specifically. So however you are reading that data.the numbers should be according to those set-points. Unfortunately set-points for anything above idle is sporadic at best. I wouldn't get too hung up on numbers though... if the car runs fine and there are no CEL's, just drive it and enjoy!
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