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jsoderbe

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About jsoderbe

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    Member

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  • From
    Vasteras, Sweden
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    996 Carrera Convertible
  1. Thanks Dammad, great thread, I will check those things. Regards, Johan
  2. Found the problem! Just missed to attach the microswitch attached to the left side cylinder. So, FINALLY the tops works as it is supposed to do..... Almost. The fabric ends up outside the frame on the left side. Not all the way, just couple of inches. I will use the search function to find info on that one! Thanks, Johan
  3. Hi guys, So, I have spent some time occasionally to fix my convertible top. I have had all kinds of problems, due to PO's neglect. So far I have fixed 1. Repaired broken convertible top frame, the support for the rearmost part was broken on both sides. 2. Swapped out both hydraulic cylinders due to bad leaks. 3. Fixed the window frame lock microswitch with the superglued 2 mm plastic part fix. So now I basically only have one problem left, that actually is a new problem; When opening the top, it stops several times on its way back to the folded position. When it is all the way back, when the clam shell should close, it doesnt. The hydraulic pump for the top seems to try and fold the top even more, like there is a micro switch that cant feel that the top is folded. This was no problem before, when I lovered it manually the clam shell closed, and so did the side flaps. Fluid level is ok. Anyone who has an idea where I should look? Thanks, Johan
  4. Hi guys, First, thanks for a great writeup! I followed it step by step, but screwed up.... When pulling the bushing on top, I dropped it! I did not see it fall down, and then I spent one hour trying to find it. It is nowhere to be found, I looked everywhere, poked with a screw driver, vacuumed, tapped with a hammer. I would guess I had a 99 % chance it wold just fall on the floor inside the car, but no. So, does anyone have a good idea how to resolve this unfortunate situation? Thanks, Johan
  5. Yes, I will buy vaculift next trip to the US in march. It is way too expensive to sent it over to me in Europe, adding shipping and duties. Looks like the Durametic has to wait too.... Thanks, Johan
  6. Hi, today I removed the heater core to repair the heater flap. It was pretty straight-forward to remove it, but I got somewhat of a surprise; even though I just have replaced all the coolant with new red-ish one, the coolant in the heater core was the old green! To me that points towards no circulation, meaning air pocket in heater core. Is there an other reason for it, that I need to adress? Thanks, Johan
  7. Did you have a reputable shop repair the heads? From what I understand they need to cut out a pretty big piece and start repairing from the inside out. They cant just weld the superficial crack. At least that is my understanding. I am definately no expert, but there shold not be coolant in oil without oil in coolant. Reason is that the oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure. Of course, when the crack is big enough there will be intermix, but that is intermix both ways. However, coolant pressure should be higher than oil pressure when engine is turned off hot, but you should still have oil in coolant. Even though it does sound unlikely that you should have another non-related problem at the same time, I should at least check for other reasons before I pull the engine again. Thanks, Johan
  8. Thanks Hobbes and Logray, the car started today and I drove it off for new oil and coolant. Excellent DIY! Johan
  9. Ok, got an hour this evening, and decided to put the car back together. Unfortunately I could not find out where to put the coolant hose from the oil cooler (this one was broken for me, creating a massive coolant leak), and unfortunately I was not smart enough to take a picture.... I think it was attached to the coolant reservoir, but the inner diameter of the hose is only 8 mm on the oil cooler side, but on the coolant reservoir it looks like maybe 12-15 mm. Anyone who know if I am going in the right direction? Besides this it worked out gret, I just need to get it to the shop for a vacuum coolant fill! Thanks, Johan
  10. Hi, I just finished reinstalling the intake bolts, and I could reach them all from the left side of the intake. To be honest I don't know how you even can reach the last bolt from under the intake? Also, I realized that removing the coolant tank isn't necessary either. There is enough room to get the intake bolts out anyway. Neither is a lot of work, maybe I would have saved 1,5 hours. The alternator was a nightmare to get out, but simple to put back in. Maybe a tiptronic is different? Could I have something more mounted under the intake, which make it impossible to reach the bolt from under the intake? Regards, Johan
  11. Hi, I am just putting my car back together after following you DIY. One question, is the alternator removal necessary? Is it to reach the last upper intake bolt? Thanks, it was an excellent writeup! Johan
  12. Thanks Loren! Just wish I would have had the same luck finding a drivers seat, but all the one or sale for a resonable price are all to worn for my taste.... :-( Thanks, Johan
  13. It's all good, I'm sure I will get it fixed shortly. I just scored a steering wheel at Pelicanparts, with the part number 996.347.804.54 C60. Would that mean Graphite Grey? I do hope so.... Thanks, Johan
  14. Hi, Attached is a picture of the passenger seat, which show the color of the interior. Also I have attached a picture of the badly worn driver seat and steetring wheel. And here is a picture of the front hood sticker: Any thoughts? Thanks, Johan
  15. Hi, Could someone please help me to find out what interior color I have? I need to recover the steering wheel, and there are too many grey interior choices. The label in the trunk says L3A8 CM. The car is a US 2001 996 Carrera. Thanks, John
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