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plima

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Everything posted by plima

  1. plima
    The basics: the number followed by a "w" is for viscosity at 0 degC and the number without the "w" is for high temp (I think it is 100 degC) Since many fluids (like petroleum oils w/out additives) get thinner with temperature, both ratings are important. You want good flow at low temperature to protect the startup phase (where most wear takes place), and 0w gives you a lower temperature protection than 5w. On the high end, you don't want it to be too thin (and 50 is thicker than 40). With Mobil 1 and other good synthetics, the change in viscosity is smaller over temperature w/o lots of additives. Again, 0w-40 synthetic (e.g. Mobil 1) gives great low and high temp prot.
  2. plima
    Under most conditions, nearly any clean oil will protect your engine. I am happy sticking to Porsche's recommended 0w-40 Mobil 1 for my GT3, even though it gets lots of heavy load driving. I think Porsche (and BMW) want the lower weights to improve the start-up performance of both the hydraulic lifters and vario-cam mechanisms. And, if your motor isn't really worn out, 40 weight works very well.
  3. plima
    Fyi, the reason racers and others use all water (rather than the 50% Glycol-50% water mix) is that water has a much higher specific heat (i.e. a given mass of water takes more heat to raise its temperature a fixed amount than does the mixture). The downsides of water-only are (1) corrosion, and (2) freeze point. Clearly number 2 isn't an issue for racing, but number 1 is.
  4. plima
    Please let us know it this resolves the problem; it will be a great education for us all!
  5. plima
    Here are a few thoughts which might help you. I have a lot of experience with the Pilot Sport and now also with the PS2. Both are good sticky street tires, with the PS2 having the edge in that department. Thus I would not expect the problem to persist once the PS2 is "broken in." Typically, I would expect the new tires to be in pretty good shape within 500 or so miles. My experience with 911s, though, is that they are happiest with the same kind of tire on both ends. I can't tell whether you have PS2s with "N" rating or not. The "N" represents a Porsche-Michelin effort at good compatibility. In any case, give them a few more "aggressive" miles and I suspect you'll be fine.
  6. plima

    Spark Plug Indexing

    plima replied to RayGT3's topic in 996 GT3

    Somewhat off topic, but I've attached the Bosch plug numbering decoder which may help some folks.Bosch_Spark_Plug_numbering.pdf
  7. plima
    wrt Q1 and Q3: I have an '04 GT3 (steel disks) with 12k miles (mostly highway, mountains, etc) and these sounds are completely normal. You will get less squeal (as you point out) if the pads have recently had a good workout. wrt Q2, there are MANY posts here and on Rennlist on what pads are in the car. My opinion is that they are not RS19 even though they are yellow. They are a more street-occasional track mix than is the RS19.
  8. plima
    One data point: I've owned a '68 911 (280,000 miles, 2 engine rebuilds), a '63 SC Cabriolet (80,000 miles, 2 engine rebuilds), a '70 914 (120,000 miles, no rebuilds), and currently an '04 GT3 with 12,000 miles. The '68 911 broke 3 rocker arms when the timing chain tensioner failed (at 10K miles). That car had no other issues (but that one was a BIG one). The 356 was a wonderfully fun car with many minor issues. The 914 had several issues (most serious was a battery location that caused the battery to be flooded whenever it rained, overflowing acid...) The GT3 (bought new, 10 months old now) has zero defects. I think Porsche is making forward progress in both performance and quality (again, only my direct experience).
  9. plima
    When Silicone (not silicon!) brake fluids first became available in the 1970s I "upgraded" my 911 to silicone. At Dow-Cornings recommendation, I replaced all the caliper seals and rebuilt the master cylinder and washed all the brake lines with ethanol. Silicones are very attractive for this application since the are not harmful to paint, are not hydroscopic, and have very high boiling points. HOWEVER, it is a BIG mistake for a car that is driven hard on the street or track. After bleeding the system countless times (over 1 year I used 2.5 GALLONS) using various techniques recommend by D-C and invented myself, the pedal was never as firm as the first pass bleed with a DOT-4 glycol based fluid. At this point, I would recommend DOT-5 (Silicone) fluids only for a show car (minimal road time and no track time). It will last forever and preserve your brake system, and it will stop the car, but you'll never get a rock hard pedal and the modulation that comes with it. As mentioned above, DOT 5.1 are not Silicone fluids, but they do meet the (awesome) high boiling points of Siicone DOT 5 fluids. They are completely compatible with the DOT-4 fluids that Porsche recommends. With careful, regular bleeding and great care not to get on your paint, DOT-4 and DOT 5.1 fluids are the right choice for our Porsches.
  10. plima
    I did not use the plug in adaptor; I cut the cord to the appropriate length and soldered to the back of the printed circuit board that holds the lights and switches (it comes out of the car very easily). That circuit is fused already; the only loss is of the passenger side light, as it is now the detector circuit. Paul
  11. plima
    It is very easy to wire it directly into the overhead light module. Besides the very short wire run, it has the very nice characteristic of automatically shutting off after the car is shut off.
  12. plima
    Here are a few minor points to consider. The "N" marking can indeed mean different tread patterns; for example the 2002 Michelin Pilot Sport 225-40 x 17 was available with the "N*" and without; looking at them side by side they were very different tread patterns. I've found the the "N" rated Michelin PS2s for my GT3 are great tires, but I'm sure there are others that work well, with and without the "N". I wouldn't worry about the "N" but I'm happy to follow Porsche recommendations.
  13. plima
    The key reason fo adding Reverse to the TP is to aid it in making sensible guidance instructions. When the car is stopped, GPS cannot determine "forward" v "backward" without it. Thus it might give you a clearly stupid route instruction as you are backing up to get out of a parking place, thinking that you are moving forward. This silliness goes away as soon as you are moving forward for any reasonable time, and is the only downside to not having the "reverse" connection.
  14. plima
    Hello Macfly, I'm a happy GT3 owner and a Mac computer user. I have VPC6 on my powerbook and have run the Race Technology s/w on some test data files with no problem. Compact FLASH mounts ok. If you would like to consult about this problem I'm happy to do so via email (plima@ix.netcom.com)
  15. plima
    I would be less concerned about the brand and more concerned about the weight. I think Porsche is recommending the lighter weight oils (the "0W" or "5W' part of the description) for 2 reasons: first, the hydraulic valve lifters work better when cold with the lighter oil, and 2nd, the variocam mechanism also works better with the light oil. If you are in an "always warm" climate, I wouldn't make it an emergency to change the oil, however, I think it is a good plan to get it done as soon as practical.
  16. plima
    I am sure the Valentine is great, but tests show that the newer Escorts are close second, and they integrate very nicely. I've mounted mine to the right of the rear view mirror at the very top of the windshield (as Poursha shows in his pix). I made a short power cord (about 8") using a standard black telephone cord (RJ-11 on one end, red and black wire exposed on the other). I wired mine into the light module above the mirror. I removed the module (it snaps into the roof), removed the passenger side light, and soldered the pigtail above to the printed circuit board where the light connects. Be sure to check the polarity of the existing power cord, your new one, and then which wire solders where in order to get the polarity of your new cord correct. This is a very simple installation, no dangling cords, very little car disassembly, and virtually invisible when done.
  17. plima
    On the subject of leather care, I've used Connolly Hide Food for 14 years (first on my '91 M5, a daily driver) and now on my '04 GT3 (also a daily driver). These cars sit in our plentiful California sun during the day and the leather has held up very well. This isn't to say Lexol is in any way not a good choice, only that there is another with an excellent track record.
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