tXster

Yes, it is a hassle getting around the air filter box, however, you do not have to remove. There is a bolt that can be easily removed that will allow for a bit more play. I used a 12 inch 1/2 socket extension to reach behind the air filter box and apply pressure to the electrical connection to mate. This worked.

Will replacing the bulb fix the problem, yes, necessary, maybe, maybe not. My problem included the left side bulb, turn signal, and high beam, not in that order and they would all switch off and on randomly. In addition, within a couple of days of left side problem, my right side turn signal went out too. The dealer diagnosed a bad igniter on the left side and replaced the part. The truck was returned to me with the beams and signals working, however, the left side high beam was still failing. These problems began after a 24 inch snowfall which included a lot of bumping and bouncing through snow and ice. When the headlamp assembly is removed and reseated, the electrical connector was failing to fit snug in the headlamp assembly when slipped back in and locked. Some of the connectors would attach to the electrical assembly just enough to work, the other side of the connector would not slip in snuggly and the high beam would not work (for example) Due to the headlamp connector not properly mated with the electrical assembly, a short drive over a few bumps would knock the high beam or signals out. So, to fix, attack from behind the headlamp assembly. Open the hood and remove the plastic covers that surround the interior of the engine compartment. The right side (washer reservoir, coolant) is easy to get to the rear of the headlamp assembly. Put your hand down there and push the electrical connector from the rear into the back of the headlight assembly. You'll feel it slip properly over the headlamp assembly electrical connector, mine was very loose even after being locked in place! The left side is more difficult to get to since the air filter assembly covers the rear of the headlamp assembly. I used a half inch socket extension to reach the connector, again, it slipped on and traveled quite a bit even after the headlight assembly was locked in place. So, your dealer is replacing bulbs when they may not be broken. The problem was solved (in my situation at least) by simply getting my hands dirty.

Two months for my dealer to receive the carbon canister from Porsche! My original canister failed causing these check engine codes. In addition, cold engine caused a very rough idle until warmed up. Idle would chase after warmed up. According to my dealer, both were due to the failed canister Hopefully these issues have been fixed. Parts replaced: 955-201-081-02 Carbon Canister 955-201-908-00 Moulded Hose N-100-232-91 Hose Clamp

Last week I received a P0446 CEL code, after some searching on this site, I cleared the code and filled the gas tank. Yesterday I received P0445, so I dropped off at the dealer. A smoke test revealed leaks in the charcoal canister. I thought I'd post this "smoke" test since I hadn't read about this before. Hope this helps someone else out.

I purchased the extended warranty at CarMax (Max Care) on my '06 at the time of purchase. Purchased with 9,100 miles on the clock, transferable coverage 'til 84,000 miles or 2014, cost $1,649.00 Really the only reason I recommend CarMax, I have never heard of better used car extended coverage for the price. My Porsche dealer warranties Max Care coverage CarMax sold Porsche's all day long, $75 deductible. $5K sounds very high, I would open an ING Orange savings, drop the 5K in it and wait for that rainy day. Good Luck!

+++on Durametric, when my airbag light came on in my Boxster, Durametric was the only option to clear (other than the Dealer) I love the options to activate the various components inside the car (CEL, radiator fans, etc...)

Dealer replaced the power steering rack, including the steering gear, part: 955-347-011-17 and the steering column sealing sleeve, part: 955-347-037-03 Drive is MUCH improved, nice "new car" stiffness, plus, it appears the noise is gone (fingers crossed)

Sweet, nice pics, looks like you had a great time

Dealer adjusted steering column damper, did not correct the issue....next step rack and pinion replacement

With any Porsche purchase, buy the best you can afford.... I picked up a '06 Cayenne with just 9,100 miles on the clock. I choose a base over an "S" or "Turbo" due to the minimum gain in MPG, price, and resale. In addition, I was able to add an extended warranty for under $1700 that will carry on 'til 2014 or 84K miles. I see plenty of "S" and "Turbo"'s on the road, online classifieds are littered with them. IMO, especially during this global economic downturn, buying the biggest, baddest, and expensive is a terrible idea, unless you really don't care and have the $$$ to spend, if that's your situation, great, good luck and buy the 09 S! If you're looking for a Cayenne and a good deal, pick up a nice base '06 for $30 - $35K with a lower mileage with at least a year of the remaining warranty and hide the window sticker :D

Hi, annoying problem, after driving for 15 - 20 minutes, a noise will start inside of the steering wheel when turning in either direction. The noise is sort of a grinding metal on metal wet sneaker sound, obviously something is worn out or lacking lubrication. Any ideas? Thanks

Excellent write-up!

Hey Jon, if you're topping off, it's leaking and either/or burning off (can you smell it?), leaking around the pressure relief, bad water pump, and/or leaking in the trunk under carpet, or other. You'd be amazed on how much the trunk can hold. Also, what are the last 2 numbers on your coolant cap? My guess is is 00, you should replace the cap with at least 01

Just Maurice, I concurred, where's my "you're the man" :D Congrats on a simple find and fix.

AOS is a great suggection, check the water pump too, I know mine made a terrible sound/smell/smoke when it went....

vacuum leak, worth a closer look IMO

That's great Rick, glad you got it figured out. From what I understand from my dealer and experience, eGas throttles will have a slight bounce at idle, mine bounces sightly between 650 - 680 rpms. Nothing to worry about. Good Luck!

I had similar symtoms on my '01 S without your CELs, I replaced my air filter, MAF, and cleaned the throttle body, would run okay for a awhile, then right back to irratic idle. Tried to find any sign of a vaccum leak using a similar method as you with no success. Car would run rough and idle would bounce between 650 - 1100 RPMs. Just by chance I was hunting for a buried leak when I bumped one of the rubber sleeves ahead of the throttle body. I heard a gaping inhale, come to find my leak was a slit under the clamp that was holding the sleeve on. Ordered a replacement sleeve, installed, and problem solved. Keep searching, could be buried like mine was.

Found a slit in one of the rubber sleeves (996.110.686.01), guess the clamp tore into it while I cleaned the throttle body. Was able to cut off the bad area which was right on the edge of the sleeve and reattach. Car seems to run better than it ever has, knock on wood, idle back down with no hesitation or recycling. I'm ordering a new sleeve but will leave the old one on, leaving well enough alone. Anyway, it was a vacuum leak, hopefully my new $250 MAF helps in the higher RPM range. As always thanks for the tips.

Attachments are hard to read, here are some direct links to them: BAD MAF NEW MAF NEW MAF OP TEMP

Loren / Toolpants, I replaced my MAF in my '01 986 S which has 67K on the clock. I have cleared codes 1128, 1130, and P0507 Battery was disconnected when I replaced MAF 986 606 125 01 which was the exact part as the bad MAF. Replaced MAF due to erractic and chasing idle. Car holds steady at/near 1200 RPMs at idle. I ran the car up to operating temp over a distance of 6 miles. I recorded activity before replacing MAF, right after replacing MAF, and after driving with the new MAF 6 miles and up to operating temp. My question is should the idle settle down to normal (650 RPMs) after driving for awhile? Thanks for taking a look. PORSCHE_BADMAF.txt PORSCHE_NEWMAF.txt PORSCHE_NEWMAF_OPTEMP.txt

I had the same CEL codes at 66K and after driving 1100 miles in two days. AOS, MAF, O2 sensors, have been replaced. Due to rough and chasing idle, I cleaned the throttle body and recently cleaned the MAF. Car appears to be running better, no new CEL (fingers crossed) for over 1500 miles.

Replaced ignition switch with exact Audi part, problem solved

Good point, no clicking, my guess is the ignition switch, is this a tough DIY?

"Make a bridge" how would I accomplish this?