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Jameslovesporsches

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Everything posted by Jameslovesporsches

  1. So, got rid of the P0455 code with a new gas cap! However, still getting P1123 and P1125 codes. I found an earlier post from Loren, but don't really understand how to look into the suggestions: Initially, I was thinking a MAF sensor cleaning was in order, but that's just me guessing. Need some direction... please help. EVAP canister purge valve... where around the rear of the car do I find it? Thanks for the assistance. James
  2. Tool Pants, On my car, the area of the set screw feels wiggly. Like it's a somewhat loose, is this normal? Or is this area supposed to have little to no flex? I can easily push the clamshell side to side when it is in the air, don't know if this is normal. Thank you. James
  3. Can anybody detail their knowledge about the "slides" for adjusting the Boxster's clamshell? The two front corners of my clamshell are equally lower (not completely flush) with the rest of the car's body. Any suggestions? I was thinking of just yanking on each side by hand to try to get the front of the clamshell flush with the rest of the car. Thanks for the help. James
  4. Hey everyone, Got those 3 codes on a 99 996 tiptronic. P1123, P1125, and P0455. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot. Could all 3 be linked to a gas cap problem (esp P0455)? Also, does anyone know what needs to be fixed to pass inspection in Texas. Codes were read using an Actron basic code reader. Thanks again. James
  5. I am going to flush out my brake fluid and have decided on the Ate blue. However, I have no idea how much (how many liters?) of the brake fluid I need to buy. 98 Boxster. Thanks. James
  6. On the subject of shifter cables, 986Jim, would 1st and 2nd gear "unclear" shift gates be due to need for cable adjustment? From my 5 speed, there are only 2 cables. Could it be that one of the attachments is off spec? I don't think the cables can be adjusted, but I'm not sure. I've only heard that the stick shift can be aligned (and that's it's almost never out of alignment). Is the metal arm under the car (connecting transmission to one of the 2 shifting cables) what people refer to as the shift linkage? How often does that metal arm get bent or otherwise out of spec? Thanks. James
  7. I definitely have wanted to blame my own shifting technique. But I really don't know if it's all my fault. You see, shifting from 1-2 is just very strange. I can go from a stop in 1st gear until say 20 mph, then want to shift into 2nd with the clutch all the way down and no gas, and I'll have to wait until the tach drops down to idling basically before 2nd engages w/o difficulty. Please assess my shifting technique. How is one supposed to do the 1-2 shift smoothly. I really want to believe nothing is wrong with my transmission and that it's all me. James
  8. So, I'm beginning to feel that my transmission is not completely normal. I have a 98 Boxster with the 5 speed manual. Clutch seems completely fine, it's just the shifting that's worrisome. With the clutch depressed at a stop, I cannot freely access every gear like in other cars. For example, at a stop, I can sometimes select 1st, 2nd, 5th, and R, but not 3rd or 4th. At least not with ease. And if I push the transmission into 3rd, it becomes more difficult to choose other gears. Nonetheless, driving is still OK just not as pleasureable as I want it to be. I start in 1st gear, but it nev
  9. Hey All, So, I cleaned the carbon out of the throttle body and the IACV as suggested in another Renntech post that I posted this situation in (How hard to change engine temp sensor?). There really wasn't very much carbon. A thin film on portions of the IACV and a ring in the throttle body around the butterfly valve in the closed throttle position. I also pushed the little metal "swing-door" around in the IACV and it moved freely under pressure, but wanted to swing back in place to its original resting position when I let go of it. So, from what I can tell, it appears my IACV is functioni
  10. I will clean out the throttle body and IACV this weekend, but have a few questions. 1) Are tightening torques for the screws important? 2) Is it safe to spray carb cleaner inside the IACV? 3) Is it safe to push around the flap inside the IACV? I'm worried that the flap or whatever that the IACV contains is not meant to be pushed around. Also, is cleaning the IACV the only maintenance for it or should I lubricate it too? I just don't know what to expect with the IACV, thanks. James
  11. Reefish, I haven't replaced the spark plugs recently, so I hope it isn't that. Thanks for the suggestion. James
  12. Hi all, So, blackboxster and I appear to have different problems, so I decided to start a new thread concerning my car. My 98 2.5 non egas 5 speed under 10k miles Boxster seems to be having a idle problem on every warm start and frequently cold starts IF the outside temperature is below 60-65 F. What's weird (and good) I suppose, is that the engine kinda returns to normal after I've driven it for a few minutes. There also is no Check Engine Light. This isn't a chronic engine shuddering at idle problem, but pretty short term. And when the engine shudders, it is for like a second before t
  13. Loren, is this carbon build up/ idle control valve part common causes of problems on the Boxster? Also, how does one go about fixing these two potential problem causers? Should I just remove the throttle body and blow compressed air on it? How about the idle control valve? Where is it located? Can I clean it or replace it? Thank you for the tip Loren. James
  14. Hmmm blackboxster, I was thinking that our problem was the same, but if you only experience this at cold start up and I only get it after the car has already been driven for a while, we may not be searching for the same culprit. Sorry I wasn't of any help. James
  15. My 98 Boxster 5 speed is having similar symptoms, except I do not need to touch the throttle when the rpms drop below 1000 because my engine recovers quickly after it starts shaking after start up. It almost seems like the engine is seeing how slow it can go before dying! Also, blackboxster, my engine only does this after it has already been started up and driven recently. So, it doesn't do this when the car is cold, but if I run errands and have the car off for a few minutes and then return to drive it, it does what your car is doing. I don't know if it makes a difference, but on your car
  16. Tool Pants, Thank you very much, your expertise with our cars has once again helped me. Your picture of the cell phone connector was my mystery one. I have velcroed it out of the way and wow, I'm surprised a 98 Porsche came prewired for phone. Fancy. Thanks again. James
  17. Thanks to Rockitman for posting his instructions with pictures. I have nearly completed my console delete modification on my 98 Boxster. However, while removing the front mounting bracket in the attached picture, the thin bundle of wires (also indicated in one of Rockitman's pictures attached here) came loose. Does anyone know what purpose those wires might serve? I can't see anywhere where they might connect. And if they're for some option I don't have, I'm concerned about rattles as those wires and the plug they join at is just flopping around loose under my console delete kit.
  18. I have a 98 Boxster with a factory hardtop, SMK. A hardtop on the Boxster has, in my opinion, some pros outweighed by many cons. For example, the sound deadening is a significant difference. There is far less maintenance- soft top is higher maintenance. However, on a Boxster, much of the fun of the car comes when its top is down. Driving top up/down is like driving two different cars, especially when the hardtop is attached vs. just softop being closed. My hardtop is also well attached. For example, the only squeaks from my car occur with the hardtop on or off. Nevertheless, I will say
  19. I found a fix on PPBB! I'm not sure how to attach the link, so I'm gonna copy/paste. "Gene, I had a very annoying clicking / ticking noise when the top was up that came from the right rear of the top mechanism. It sounded like it was coming from about ear level. I finally found there was a piece of clear tape worn through to the metal it covered on a small cable guide. I covered the guide up with a new piece of 3/4 x 1 inch of packing tape and the noise went away for good (well almost for good, I have to replace the tape every three or four months)! HereÆs how to check yours: Open th
  20. I have lately become bothered by a repetitive, almost rhythmic clicking/ticking noise from the area over the passenger side's shoulder. It's not a rattle or a buzzing, but a click- click- click. Not loud but definitely noticeable. The car's top has been up since it is dirty, but I moved the top up and down- no problem. Ticking continues with the passenger window in any position, doors locked or unlocked, and so far, only when the vehicle is in motion and not always at that. I have moved the passenger seat in different locations, so I don't think it's the passenger seat. It sounds like it
  21. For those with the horn problem, I wanted to steer you towards the black hi temp silicone repair. I tried going to Lowe's, Home Depot, and even Ace for the o-ring solution suggested by jporter, but could not find an o-ring #38 or nylon washers of the right spec. Very frustrating. When I took off the airbag, I found that my rubber bushings were all still in place! This intrigued me because everyone else's had tears or even torn all the way through. Nevertheless, the silicone fix has solved my horn problem, and I conclude that my rubber bushings, though still intact, had become exceptionall
  22. I am looking for the part number for a nonsmoker tray for a 98 boxster. The interior is black but not the A03 color code. I had ordered and returned that part from Sunset as it was the matte black finish. In my car, the seats/carpeting are gray, but the console and shift knob are black, just not matte black. Does anyone know what the correct part number for a nonsmoker tray in this older boxster black interior? Thanks. James
  23. djantlive, Well, the Discount Tire I went to doesn't do alignment, but the technician that examined my car was absolutely confident my problem lay in the tires. I asked about alignment and when he examined each tire, he felt that alignment was fine. Though if my car's problem persists, alignment will be the next course of action. Thank you for your shop recommendation. James
  24. Thanks to everyone who have provided suggestions! Well, I ordered the tires and they'll be installed this Friday afternoon from Discount Tire. I got the Michelin Pilot Sport N rated tires with the Discount Tire's standard warranty and gsp 9700 balancing with road force for around 870 dollars drive out. Their price was extremely competitive with Costco (no road force balancing). The next expense will be alignment if the problem does not improve. I figure the car's age does logically warrant new tires. Can anyone recommend a chain that does alignment well or any specific shop in Houston
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