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mds
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Everything posted by mds
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I had another thought. Looking at Xenon CU diagram, the three ESO wires from the the ABS, PSM and trunk entrapment are simply tied together. This says to me that cut ESO wires should be left floating rather than tied to ground (or alternatively to power). It seems to me that tieing it off would be equivalent to a short circuit, while leaving it floating would be equivalent to an additional, unused input source. So I think what I am going to do next is to try cutting the dang thing. If that works then I will install an inline switch: open the connection to defeat ESO, and close it to restore ESO operation.
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An update: - I was mistaken about the location of the ABS CU. It is not behind the left headlight as I previously posted. Rather it is just to the left and in front of the brake fluid reservoir. Remove the plastic cover over the reservoir and you will see the CU on the front of the brake hydraulic value assembly. Wiring is connected to the CU via a large black Bosch connector. - I realized what the wire label "ESO" likely stands for: Emergency Shut Off. So I am pretty sure that this is the wire that needs to be hacked. If you untape the bundle of wires leading to the Bosch connector, it is the one colored white with a brown stripe and connected to pin 19 of the connector. There are actually two wires with this color in the bundle. The one that is twisted together with a blue/brown wire is part of the wheel speed sensor circuit. That is not the one involved with ESO. The white/brown wire that runs straight and untwisted in the bundle is the ESO. - According to the wiring diagram, the ESO circuit is also connected to the trunk latch mechanism. I think that if the trunk entrapment release is pulled, the ESO will cut throttle also. An ESO wire also runs to the xenon headlight CU, I have no guess as to what effect ESO has on the lights. On non-GT3 PSM equipped cars, ESO also connects to the PSM CU. - I am still not yet ready to cut and ground the ESO. I want to think more first. Maybe I am still missing something that should be obvious. :help:
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I've made progress on a hack. Pull fuse B9. Doing so disables the egas kill feature as well as ABS, but proper stop light function remains. You also get console warning lights, but they go away when you reinstall the fuse. Looking at the wiring diagrams, wires run from the brake pedal switch to the ABS control unit, but not directly to the ECU. There is however a wire running from the ABS control unit to the ECU labeled "ESO rear". My guess is that under braking the ABS unit tells the ECU to cut throttle via this wire. Hence by disabling ABS, the throttle cut signal is not sent. My next experiment is to locate this wire and tie it to ground. The ABS unit itself is located directly behind the left headlight. Pop out the headlight to see it. Unfortunately the wiring is not easily accessible there, but I believe it may be accessible under the plastic covering over the left front strut mount.
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Thanks
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This thread shows the OEM short shifter including a housing. What is the P/N for this part?
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I replace this part on my 04 Mk2, assuming the Mk1 is similar, the repair should be easy, lacking metalwork damage. The locations for the clips and nuts should be obvious. Check for denting in any metal underbody parts, the seams between abutting metal can get bent, and you may need to tap them flat into place with a hammer. Also, the metal studs holding the nuts can get bent or even broken off. If so, have your shop weld on new ones and prime the area to avoid rust.
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I'd like to disconnect the airbags for track days. Can I just disconnect the connector to the airbag control unit?
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I recommend not using the part Loren recommended, which is a screw-type connector and not the part actually used by the factory on new cars. I don't understand why the part's catalog specifies this part. The problem with it is that the head strips too easily when you try to install it. There are two push-type connectors available, each with a slightly different size: 999.507.497.40 8x14mm 999.507.557.40 7.8x12.3mm The GT3 Cup car parts catalog says to use the second one. I have tried both, and they both work fine.
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I've been reusing them. A few tend to bind up and are hard to remove, replace those. Clean the surface where the adhesive sticks with 3M adhesive remover.
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Thanks, guys. I ordered the kit, should be here next week. This afternoon I decided to go ahead and remove one of the skirts and clean off the old adhesive. That took some elbow grease, the adhesive is quite aggressive, even with 3M adhesive remover I spend over an hour on it.
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The top edges of the side skirts have come loose on my car. It looks like they were attached by some sort of double sided adhesive tape. Is there a part number for the tape? What is the repair procedure?
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R+C, I agree that you should corner balance the car with a half tank and the driver in place. I did so on my car. Sorry, I never intended to imply otherwise. On my car (with 195lb driver and half tank) the left side ended up weighting 124lbs more than the right side. After corner balancing the diagonals differed by 32lbs. This is correct. On a left/right and front/rear asymmetric car (with driver and half tank) such as mine, the diagonals should not be equal.
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Brian, corner balancing doesn't change the left/right ratio, just as it doesn't change the front/rear ratio. So it is not a matter of wanting or not wanting a particular left/right ratio, you are stuck with whatever you have - as long as the modification is just a corner balance. Of course if you move weight around in the car the ratios will change. But they won't change when you move the spring seats while doing a corner balance. Another way to say this is that the sum of the front two wheels is fixed. So is the sum of the rear two wheels. Also the sum of the right two wheels, and the sum of the left two wheels. Corner balancing will change weights on individual wheels, but in a funny, constrained way such that these four sums don't change. Speakfreak, according to the latest rumor, the factory does not align and corner balance the cars. They just come off the production line however they were assembled. Apparently the factory does check alignment occasionally as a quality assurance measure on a few cars, but as a rule they are not aligned and not corner balanced.
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I know, such a trivial part, but I lost one. It is a shiny metal cap with an inner rubber seal. The edge is knureled and the cap top has a small bump in the center with no porsche logo.
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Karl, I don't know. I did have to turn the adjusters, but only a couple of clicks. Without any turning the rotors would not slide off over the e-brake pads.
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msindi, it's an 04. The squeaks seem to come from the joint between the A-pillar trim and the dash. When I apply pressure on the dash near the joint with my hand the noise stops. I'm going to try sliding some felt into the joint.
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I read somewhere that dealers were using teflon strips to fix interior squeaks. Is there a PN for this stuff? I want to fix squeaks between the A-pillar trim and the top of the dashboard on both sides of the car.
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Thanks Loren. I found it. The adjuster knob is at the rear of the hub. Rotate the rotor until one of the lug nut holes is positioned at the rear of the hub, directly opposite from the caliper. The adjuster is visible through the hole with a flashlight. It has a number of vertically oriented ribs and rotates through a vertical axis when pressed appropriately with a screwdriver tip.
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I'm trying to remove the rear rotors. The manual says "With a screwdriver, turn the adjustment device toward "release" through a whlle bolt threaded hole". I can see the parts of the e-brake mechanism through the lug nut holes on the rotor, but I can't see anything that looks obviously like an adjustment device with a release position. Any ideas? Thanks.
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I wanted to do a thorough job, so I decided to take off the bumper. Here is the procedure: -Remove the front wheels, -Remove the side marker lights, -Remove the front wheel well liners, -Remove two screws holding the bumper under each side marker, -Lift up the plastic cover over the front trunk latch by removing four plastic fasteners, and remove two screws holding the bumper, -Remove three screws holding the front bumper in the center under the car, -Slide off the front bumper, -Remove the side radiator ducts, -Remove the center radiator duct by loosening the two bolts on the sides of the frame and then spreading the frame apart slightly. Cleaning the radiators is tedious, it is hard to get all the dirt, bugs and sand out completely. Use an air hose, a vacuum and a thin wire to pick pieces of dirt out. Reinstall everything in reverse order. When reinstalling the side radiator ducts, be sure that the rubber gasket is pressed fully and properly without kinks all the way around the radiator.
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Andrew, cars are usually so nearly weight symmetric left to right and that equal diagonals works fine as a rule of thumb. To do it right the ratio method should be used, but IMO it will be hard to feel a handling difference between the two methods on the GT3.
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FYI, a correctly corner balanced car has equal diagonal weights only if the car is weight symmetric front to rear or left to right. The GT3 with half tank and driver is neither. As an example, my car has a front/rear weight ratio of 36.5%/63.5% and a left/right ratio of 51.9%/48.1%. Total weight with me and a half tank is 3256lb. A correctly corner balanced car should have at each corner a weight equal to the total weight of the car times the appropriate ratios at that corner. In other words for my car, the left front tire should weight 3256*.365*.519=617lb, ie the total weight times the front ratio times the left ratio. Similarly, the right front would be 3256*.365*.481=572lb, left rear 3256*.635*.519=1073lb, right rear 3256*.635*.481=994lb. In this case, you can see that the diagonal weights 1611 and 1645 are not equal. This is correct, they should not be equal. No matter how far off your car is from a correct balance, the weight ratios will be the same. So the balance procedure is this: take your car as it is and weight each corner first, figure out the front/rear and left/right ratios, compute what each tire should weight, and then adjust the car appropriately.
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Does anyone have a DIY on cleaning the radiators? I found Loren's page on the 996 3rd Radiator Install which has some info. Is there anything else I need to know?
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My car is one that was 10mm too high in the front. After lowering the front, the headlights were aimed way low so I raised them to factory spec. However, they were still to low IMO so I raised them further above spec. They are much better now.
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What is the part number for the electrical connector that will plug into the aux phone connector shown in ToolPant's photo below? I'd like to connect a video camera to this power source.
