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mds

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Everything posted by mds

  1. Yes. I've played with the stock tires a little bit, they seem to work well at roughly 4psi more all around than the Cups.
  2. I try to keep the tires always at 33 front/36 rear hot. It is easy to feel a 1 or 2psi change and these pressures seems to work best for maximizing front and rear grip, IMO. For street driving I set them at 30 front/31 rear cold as usually the front tires warm up about 3lbs and the rears 5lbs on the street. For track driving, I start with 26 front/27 rear cold, and then adjust them to make sure they are always 33 front/36 rear hot after every session. When cold the first lap they will feel very bad, too soft and no grip, the second lap they are much better, and from the third lap on they are nearly fully up to temp. For autocross, where you really can't get any heat on a single lap, I start the day at 33 front/36 rear cold and adjust them downward as necessary after every lap.
  3. Dave, On the rear 2 or 3 from soft is the same as 1 off full hard or full hard, assuming you did mean to say soft and not hard. If you did mean soft, then your suggestion is roughly either an overall harder version of what Craig and I am using, or an overall harder version of the factory setup. If you did mean hard, then I agree with Craig, that would likely be too much understeer. When I decided I wanted more rear grip than the factory setting, I decided to soften the rear rather than harden the front because I figured going harder might make the car more tricky to drive if weight transfered faster. It is also easier to change the rear than the front, access is better. But this alternative is worth a try. Once the tires are up to temp it is very easy to feel the difference between settings. So it won't be difficult for you to dial in what feels best. When changing the bars, be sure to use blue loctite on the nuts otherwise they will tend to loosen up. Also a slimline 17mm open end wrench is helpful, such as this one. Torque the nuts to 35 flbs. -Mike
  4. Congrats on the car. I run my car setup like this: Front: ride height 115mm, camber -2.5°, toe 0.05° in per side, sway bar 1 softer than full stiff, pressure 33psi hot Rear: ride height 128mm, camber -2.4°, toe 0.30° in per side, sway bar 2 softer than full stiff, pressure 36psi hot To get -2.5° front camber, you will need to shim the front arms with about 8 to 10mm of factory shims per side. Alternatively, you can rotate the strut tops to the alternate set of mounting holes, but you won't be able to get much less than about -2.7°. New cars are often shipped with front ride height 10mm too high, so you may need to lower the front. Rear height is usually pretty close to 128mm. The softer rear bar helps getting on the power early. However you will suffer from more understeer in slower corners. A bit of trailbraking helps get some rotation. For autocross, a softer front or harder rear helps.
  5. I have not. I looked in the street and cup car service manuals, no luck. I've been using about 10ftlbs along with blue locktite for a while now. Seems to work fine.
  6. Scott, The diag manual lists several possible causes for a 134 including a faulty O2 sensor, open circuits in the sensor wiring and loose wiring connectors. No mention of fuses. IMO, most likely is a bad sensor that needs to be replaced. -Mike
  7. The Equus does work with Porsche. Sometimes I have similar trouble, the problem is due to a poor electrical connection. Insert the connector, wiggle it around some and press it sideways one way or another and try again.
  8. Jim, yes, the handheld resets codes and turns the light off.
  9. Most regular auto parts stores sell handheld units for about $100. I bought this one from Kragen. It works well for Porsche, but of course does not have the full capability of the factory system test tool.
  10. I recommend Pagid RS-19 pads, model #2707 for the front and #2405 for the rear, Castrol SRF brake fluid and the Cup car lower brake ducts. Pedal feel and modulation are good with no fade at all. I get about 1000 track miles on a set of front pads and discs, rears last twice as long or more. Disc life is limited by surface cracking with some overall wear across the discs, but little or no grooving. Use Cup car discs as replacements, they are much cheaper than those from the dealers.
  11. Ron, check my Rennlist post. It looks like my car does have all of the hosing and vacuum lines that I would expect to see.
  12. The 7.8 dme manual says p1674 is an engine compartment purge fan problem, either an open circult or a short. Check the relay and wiring harness.
  13. I did an install this morning, Rockitman and Wolfgang, thanks for the notes. They were very helpful. A couple of comments: - Following Wolfgang's notes and template, I trimmed the plastic pieces with a Dremel tool. This went fast and was easy and avoided having to crush the plastic. - I used a strap between the rear arms to compress the arms together. This made rotating the bar into position easier. Doing so also simplified the installation of the spacers between the carpet and the bars. The strap was a trailer tiedown strap with a ratchet. - I used a second strap between one of the rear arms and the front bar to compress the arm forward. This helped align things properly for the rear bolt installation. - The most time consuming part was installing the rear bolts. I know of several people who had theirs cross threaded and striped, so I wanted to be very careful. I readjusted the straps until it was possible to install the bolts by hand. Once in, I released the straps and torqued everything down. - Rather than reinstalling the seat belt ends to the chassis bolts, I connected them to the GT3 seats instead. The advantage is that later if you ever need to remove the belts and seats to do work on the car, you won't have to worry about unbolting the bar and having it come out of alignment. It took me about 5 hours for the install, working my myself.
  14. An update: I've been running my cut wire hack for a month now. It works great with no problems, other than the check engine light. When I reset the light, it comes back after two drive cycles. I decided to install a switch so that I could reconnect the wire whenever I have the car serviced. This one works well. After soldering the wires, I zip tied the switch onto the lower part of the ABS control unit bracket.
  15. I understand your position. What I don't understand is why Porsche let us all down. As skl suggested, search Rennlist for PCCB. Here are some samples: The guy who got 9000 miles "strongly suggests" getting rid of them here. A brake failure story leading to arbitration here. A pad and disc failure "not ready for track time" story here.
  16. On a track that is hard on brakes, PCCB can be destroyed on the very first track day. I witnessed this myself on a friend's car. The surface of the front discs delaminated with multiple 3/4" sized areas fractured off the face of the discs. The car was being driven by a good driver, so I can't fault the driver for error. The GT3 is heavy for a track car, it is not worth compromising on the brakes. Swap them out.
  17. Congrats, you will love the car. I agree with skl, although it is possible you won't have PCCB problems on the track, I think the risk is too high. Damage can occur quickly, frankly they are a safety hazard IMO. Gert Carnewal sells a kit with everything you need to switch to iron here.
  18. According to the GT3 Cup car service manual, torque for the drop-link bolts is 46Nm (34 ft-lbs). Torque for the bolts holding the bar to the cross member is 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs). I use Loctite also.
  19. Is it possible to adjust the low and high headlight beam aiming independently? The two adjusters seem to adjust both the low and high beams left/right and up/down together as a pair but not independently. I'd like to raise up the low beam some but leave the high beam aim unchanged. Is this possible?
  20. I checked the DME 7.8 diagnosis manual. The fault P0501 is listed as "Vehicle speed - open circuit." One of the possible fault causes listed is an open circuit on the ESO wire that I cut. So the bottom line: Cutting the ESO does disable the throttle cutoff when left foot braking, but you will get a P0501 fault code and a check engine light as side effects. So far I have seen no other side effects, everything else, the brake, throttle, and ABS continue to work fine. By the way, Kragen Auto has the easy to use Equus OBDII code reader on sale for $99. It displays the codes, both active and pending, and allows you to erase them and reset the check engine light. I tried it on a Jaguar, two Toyotas and my GT3. It works fine on all of them.
  21. Cutting the ESO does throw a CEL after 6 to 8 drive cycles. The DME does detect the loss of communication with the ABS CU when the ESO is cut. Although I have not done another scan, no doubt the fault is P0501, like before. So lacking another alternative, if you must have no ESO, you either live with CEL or the need to reset it repeatedly. :(
  22. Loren, I agree, those other faults (and the ABS and brake warning lights) were probably caused by my ABS fuse pulling experiments. With all fuses reinstalled, and all faults cleared, I left the ESO cut and am running the car. No CEL yet. I bought a cheap scan tool today, as soon as it arrives I will check for any pending Pcodes. My guess at this point is that I probably will see one. If so, bummer, although I guess you could always use the scan tool to reset it. If not, great. We shall see.
  23. Update: I got a CEL yesterday, after a week of running ESO off and ABS off alternately. Apparently the DME does sense the situation and although not immediately, after some number of engine cycles, does throw a CEL. PST2 reports the following 3 faults, DME: P0501 Vehicle Speed, ABS: 4275 Valve Supply Voltage and Instrument Cluster: 9111 PSM/ABS Control Unit. Because I pulled both ABS CU and valve fuses as well as the ESO, it is not clear which of these is related to which faults. Presumably powering down the ABS may cause any of them, but I am not sure what just the ESO, by itself, causes. Clearly the DME senses the loss of ABS speed input when the ABS is off. But when it is on does speed date get transmitted on the CAN or on the ESO? My guess is CAN, since ESO is sourced elsewhere, but I'm not sure. I am going to do some more testing and see if I can find out more. It may well be that if you want no ABS or no ESO, you will have to live with CEL.
  24. Success. The ABS ESO defeat hack works. :clapping: Simply cut the straight, untwisted white/brown wire in the ABS CU wire loom bundle. There are no side effects. All brake and throttle functions continue to work properly, and there are no console warning lights. The only change is the defeat of the ABS Emergency Shut Off function. So you can left foot brake freely while staying on the throttle without the worry or annoyance of having the throttle cutting out. Here are the instructions: - Release the trunk's left side carpeting. See page 163 in the owner's manual. - Remove the black plastic cover surrounding the brake fluid reservoir. There are three screws on the top and one plastic connector on the lower edge. When you lift away the cover take care not to damage the interior light wiring that connects to the cover. - Just to the left and in front of the brake fluid reservoir you will see a large Bosch wiring connector. Release the connector by lifting up on the handle. As you lift a locking mechanism will slide outward to the left along the lower edge of the connector. Help it slide out with your free hand. - The wiring bundle connected to the Bosch connector has two parts, a thicker part wrapped with black tape and a pair of separately wrapped brown wires. - Untape about a four inch section along the thicker part. - Find a wire colored white with a brown stripe. There are two wires in the bundle so colored. You want to find the one that is straight and untwisted. This is the ABS ESO wire. The other wire is twisted together with a blue/brown wire. That is not the one you want. You want the straight, untwisted one. - Cut this wire. Leave the cut ends of the wire floating, and tape them individually to avoid a short circuit. Alternatively, you might want to install an inline switch so that you can easily restore operation. - Retape the bundle, reinstall the Bosch connector, the plastic cover and the side carpeting. - That's it.
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