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mds
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Everything posted by mds
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Tony, something is wrong, the car should not do that. Have your dealer check it out, maybe it is due to a dirty fuel filter.
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Another comment. Once you've completed the LFB gas to brake transition within 1.5 seconds, the brake is still pressed and the gas is completely released. Now you can continue to LFB and transition back to the gas with the brake still pressed with no restriction. There is no further gas cutoff even though you are still braking. So I've concluded that you actually can left foot brake without an issue in any reasonably typical driving situation. You can transition smoothly from the gas to the brake and then back to the gas, the only restriction being the first transition must be completed within 1.5 seconds.
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I discovered today while playing with LFB that when you go to the brakes while holding the gas you have about 1.5 seconds before the throttle is cut. This doesn't sound like much time, but it does seem to be enough to complete a smooth transition from gas to brake. So maybe this gas cutoff thing is not a big issue after all???
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I'm still stumped. I still have not been able to get both LFB and the brake lights working simultaneously. Also, I discovered that playing with the pedal wiring may interfer with proper ABS operation. The workshop manual wiring diagrams so far are not too helpful but I need to study them more.
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A common cause of understeer is an entry speed which is too slow for the corner followed by acceleration before the apex. This type of driving can also lead to oversteer in wet conditions since the steering wheel is not being unwound sufficiently as throttle is added. So consider your driving technique first. Then try adding negative camber to the front tires and softening the front sway bar.
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According to the 911 GT3 Product Information booklet, tank capacity is LHD: 23.5; RHD: 16.9; USA: 16.6. I understand the smaller USA tank is due to USA safety requirements. The 98 RON super unleaded factory fuel specification is roughly equivalent to 93 AKI (average of MON + RON). My local 76 gas station sells 100 AKI at $4.20 per gallon. I run a mix of 1 part 100 with 3 parts 91. The car will run on 91 at slightly reduced performance. I suggest avoiding additives. Check around, you may be able to find 96 or 100 locally.
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Ok, I figured it out. If the transmission is in neutral, a lifted rear wheel will freewheel easily both directions. There is no torque to cause the LSD clutch to engage. With the transmission in gear, clutch out, engine off, there is an applied torque when you try to rotate the wheel, and after a small rotation the LSD clutch engages and so there is no further freewheeling. So check both wheels, forward and backwards, with the car in gear and parking brake released of course. :-)
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Karl are you sure about this? The rear wheel on my car turns freely when lifted up, yet the diff seems to be working fine. I had my dealer check it this morning, and he said everything appears fine. His explanation is that the diff locks up only under torque and will freewheel otherwise. Do the wheels really lock on both of your cars?
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Kind of a unusual request, IMO, feeding in throttle in a little slower will accomplish the same thing won't it? But yes taller mainshafts are available. I think they run roughly $2k parts and $1.5k install. And the push, well it sounds like the driver again not the car. No offense intended, I don't mean to be rude, but how about some high performance driver training?
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As Tool Pants implied, pull the light out of the fender first using the special tool in the car's toolbox. You then have much easier access to all of the adjusters.
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JM, where are these holes in the front? Are they the ones Karl mentioned on the insides of the front jack points? I removed the front hooks, they were too badly bent to use anymore. The rears are OK.
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The caliper bolts should be replaced when changing rotors, because of their special stretching characteristics when tightened. They are relatively expensive, so for a discount try Suncoast Porsche. The pad retaining hardware that Loren mentions need not be replaced at every pad change. Do as Loren says and check them for wear.
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The DIY on changing brake pads recommend using a wrench to spread the brake pads and rectract the pistons. Don't do this on the the front GT3 pads. If you do you will damage the pads. The spreading force applied along the front edge of the pads will cause the rear edge of the pads to crack and flake as they are forced asymmetrically at an angle against the rotor. Of course, if you are going to replace the pads anyway the damage doesn't matter. But if you are pulling them out to check or swap them, then be careful. I believe some sort of impact wrench with prongs is a recommended alternative, but the only tool I have seen (see here) is probably the wrong size for the GT3 pads. Anybody have a suggestion for an alternative? By the way, I do have one of the pad spreader tools from this website, but it works only after the pads have been removed.
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PE Products sent the buckle connectors, but they were the wrong size so I will have to send them back. Looking at the car, I realized that the belts can easily be routed behind the GT3 bucket seats and into the buckles. This is clean, easy and cheaper, so that is what I'm going to do.
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Where to place jackstands?
mds replied to CjN's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I am leery about jacking up at points not recommended by Porsche. I jack up each corner and place wood blocks under the tire. Use a couple of wedge blocks for safety. -
Thanks for the info. I called around and found a pair from PE Products in Los Osos, CA. www.peparts.com
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What is the part number for the male end seat belt buckle on a GT3? This is the part that slides on the belt.
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Here is a followup to my prior post. Popping out the headlight really is the easy way to do the re-aiming. The headlight assembly unlocks, slides out and back in and then relocks securely very easily. Turning the bottom rearmost adjuster one full revolution results in about a 5cm change in beam height at the standard 7.5m viewing distance, per owner's manual. However, to raise the beam you have to turn the adjuster clockwise, opposite to what the manual states.
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Thanks Loren. The adjuster isn't lined up very well with the rubber plug on my car, so I decided to pop the whole headlight assembly out of the fender, using the special tool included in the tool box. This was a good idea, as doing so gave me easy access to all three adjusters, those for the headlight as well as the fog light.
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Paul, I'm worried about the bent part being strong enough also. Any movement of the car is going to stress the weakest, bent section even more. When I get a chance I am going to have a new part machined with a slightly downward angled piece only enough so that the straps hook ends will stay clear of the car.
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How do you adjust the aim of the front headlights? According to the owner's manual, the adjustment screw is behind the rearmost rubber cover behind the trunk siding, but I can't find the screw on my car.
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Yes. The rears do have the standard pin and spring clip.
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Well, demand compensation Karl!!! :o :help: So did my car get new style brakes as well as new style crankcase? Here is a picture of outer end of the pin. You can see its not like the regular pin. This end of the pin has a bolt like head on it with shoulders that mate against the adjacent edges of the calipers. And here is a picture of the other, inner end. Sorry for the focus, I was too lazy to remove the wheel and just held the camera as best I could. On this end of the pin you can see the bolt, just lower left of picture center.
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Yes, it looked like there was a little bit of factory Loctite on it. I'll leave it at 15 for now. Thanks.
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Loren, not the caliper bolts. The pin holding the pads in place has a bolt at its end rather than the spring clip. My guess its around 15ft-lbs.