ericinboca

re mapped to euro norm 3 standard will do it. at least it did in my track 986S. it will never pass a US emissions test this way.

As an alternative, take a look at Tarett Engineering camber plates. I put these in my track dedicated 986 and can now get more than -4 camber in the front (although have found the right camber setting for my setup to be -2.85 in the front.) A set is $450. The draw back is I can't get the opposite - I have to have minimum of -2.

204 seems like a bargain to me :D I'm intrigued - I'm gonna take a look on mine and see if I can figure out how they did it.

Thanks for your suggestion but the release cable you refer to doesn't exist on my car. I'm thinking about removing the part of the driver's door saddle that houses the release levers for the front hood and rear trunk. Perhaps I could pull the cable from there. Anyone have any experience with that approach? hmm...not sure what to try next. getting desperate with this suggestion - there are four "lids" - at least that is what the PET calls them, on the floor of the front tub. Two are maybe 4 inches in diameter and two are half that. I wonder if those knock out? if so, I'm not sure what to do, though. I'm not sure you could reach the mechanism.

2004 986S dedicated track car I am preparing my car for a full cage which will go in later this summer. I will need to install a removable steering wheel to facilitate getting in and out once the door bars are in. Once the full cage is in, I will likely completley disable the airbag system. But, in the interim, while using the aftermarket wheel without an airbag, I'm wondering if I can fool the car into thinking the driver airbag is still there, and keep the passenger airbag active? I measured the resistance across the two pins on the driver's side airbag at .2 Ohms. Can I wire in a resistor in place of the airbag, thus fooling the car? Would it be a resistor of .2 ohms? and while I don't know much about resistors, I do know there is a power rating to them...anyone know the power rating needed?

With a helper, you might want to try pulling on the wire while the helper applies some downward force on the badge to relieve some the pressure on the latch.

That's funny. I was talking to Jose (the doctor himself) in person yesterday at a local indie. (I'm in SoFla.) Jose is reputable. He does indeed provide a brand new unused box. He is experienced, knowledgeable and used by a couple of the indies here - including the one I regard as the best. He has done work for me, including providing a new box, and repairing an old one. The drawback to Jose is he does not have access to PIWIS or PST2, nor does he have deep contacts into Porsche. Both he and the local indies explained what he does - I don't completely understand it, and I may not have this right, but it goes something like this: He takes your old box, and sucks the software and its "configuration" out of it, and then applies it to the new box. He also applies your VIN. If all goes right, it is simple plug and play. The drawback is if there is something wrong in your old box software, and/or you have some sort of special factory mapping, and the "transfer" does not go right, he can't really help you. He doesn't actually program the box with a PST2 or PIWIS. This happened to me. My 986S is the 550 spyder version and has a mapping called something like spyder X50. When the transfer did not work correctly for reasons neither Jose nor the indie understood, the indie took over, got pass code info on my car direct from Porsche, and he and Jose together got it right. So, what does all this mean? If you have a straight 996 the chances are quite good that what you get back from Jose will be perfect. Note he also provides a warranty. If you are local OR think there is the chance that you have special factory mapping, you can mitigate the limited risk by going to Jose through the shop I went through. You end up paying Jose, and the shop, because the shop adds the PIWIS and the contacts into Porsche to figure out anything weird. Bottomline - based on my experience and the commentary from the local guys, if I had a straight 996, I'd use him. PM me if you want more of the gory detail.

Update This is nearly a closed issue, hopefully it will be completely closed after a track test on June 6. We have concluded the DME was "going south", and failing as it heated up. The hotter it got, the worse it got. A failing DME caused the power loss issues, and since the very thing that is supposed to tell you what is wrong, was itself in bad shape, we never got codes. This was an educated guess, made for all the right reasons, and while I cannot confirm it was the root of the original problems until the car is back at the track, it all adds up. So, we replaced the DME, and the new box was flashed/created with the software from the old box. But, for some reason, that did not work correctly, much to the puzzlement of the DME guy and the enormously knowledgeable local indie (who are separate entities but work togehter - the DME guy does the DME work for the indie). The car would start, it would run, but we got PSM codes and valve lifter codes, when in fact we could find nothing wrong with either. Further, a hook up to PIWIS wouldn't show critical DME info that should have been there. A couple of calls from the indie to his contacts at Porsche got some key info - i think he called them I pass codes - and with his PIWIS, he and the DME guy where able to rebuild the sofware on the box. All looks good right now. Fingers crossed.

Just closing the loop on this thread... You will note above that these fault codes showed up after replacing the DME. Turns out the creation/flashing/choosing of the maps for the new DME did not go exactly right and triggered these codes. Reprogrammed correctly and all is right with the world.

Thanks all. I went up and inspected this car. It was close to being right mechanically - a few things to do to it, but close. The body (and the interior) was a disaster. I judged I would need to do a "body off" restoration to get it right. I wasn't adverse to it, but based on my interaction with Bruce Anderson (I gave him pictures, etc.) it was overpriced. Seller would not budge. I'm still looking around casually. I appreciate all the tips - it really helped me.

The brand CRC has a MAF specific cleaner - I don't know if it is any different than electronic cleaner, but that is what I have used. You will likely need a "security" torx bit/driver to get the MAF out. The security torx driver has a small hole/depression in the center to accommodate the opposite on the screw.

+1 on the harbor freight tool I have tried two different ball joint seperators, one from NAPA and this one from HF. I did have to file a little bit on mine to make the jaw slightly larger, but the end of the pivoting piece that rests on the top of the threaded rod is longer on the HF tool than the other I used. This is important - it has to sit fully and the top of the rod - if only half of it "addresses" the top of the rod, you can crush the threads. Also be sure you get the thing all the way on - push the boot down to be sure you are getting the jaw up against the conical part of the control arm. It will pop almost like a small caliber gunshot when it pops off - can frighten you if you are not prepared for it!

Blackstone's standard analysis is 22.50. That is a little more expensive than other places, but with Blackstone, a person analyzes the results - it is not just the results - you can also call them and talk to them about your results. If you send a sample of what you changed, tell them it came out of pan or whatever. Good luck.

I don't see this as AOS. The stuff in the cap is a mix of water and oil from condensation like Loren says. I also think Loren's theory on the particles is right on too. I have a slighty different suggestion though. I would run it on a fresh fill with a new filter for 1000 miles (shorter or longer depending on how nervous you are) - then change it. As you change it, catch a sample and send it off to an oil analysis lab - they can tell you what is and help you figure out where it is coming from. I use Blackstone Labs in Toledo for analysis - they can send you a kit to capture the oil. Google Blackstone Labs for instructions, kit, etc. (I do an analysis for every change to keep an eye on metals - gives me a chance of catching some internal problems before they cause a failure in my track car)

11.8 Ohms with the motor warm, not hot...just warm. After it cools off in a hour or so, I will give you the motor cold reading. Resistance across the solenoid pins, now that it has cooled down a lot, is showing 11.4 on both valves. According to my manual, that is within spec. Here is another bit of likely important info. I got these codes after putting in a new DME. New hardware and new software. My DME guy (reputable) swears he is certain he has the right version of software on the DME - that it is VIN specific, and eventhough I have a special edition 986S that has some slightly different bits and pieces in the motor (intake is actually a 987 intake), there is no problem in the DME. I talked to him today about this fault code, along with a PSM fault code, and he argues these codes are not uncommon with a new installation, and that sometimes Durametric cannot clear them - that it needs be cleared with a PST2. Anybody buy that theory?

Thanks - the guys at Durametric just told me the same thing.

I'm getting an ABS/PSM fault code through Durametric as follows: 5281 version coding ABS/PSM lights are on, but the MAF passes its diagnostic tests, and brake lights work.

11.8 Ohms with the motor warm, not hot...just warm. After it cools off in a hour or so, I will give you the motor cold reading.

Try another ground point - the door latch may not do it. OK. Like what? The bolt on the "hinge" seems to work on my car. Also, there is a bolt that holds the seat rails down - you have to move that little plastic cover to expose it. Sometimes you just gotta try a bunch of different places to find a good ground. They seem to be hard to find sometimes. Anything with paint or a coating on it will not work - or anything aluminum.

Try another ground point - the door latch may not do it.

If I apply 12 volts directly to the pins on the valve, if it was working, shouldn't I be able to hear it clicking? When I tried this, I could hear the electrical spark, but even with a stethoscope, I could not hear any clicking internal, and Durametric drive links didn't seem to make them do anything either. There is continuity across both pins on the valve, the connector gives me battery voltage, and the triggering wires are continous back to the DME and to the relay. Looks like both valves have a relay in common - I swapped out the relay with an identical one in the box and still didn't get any result. The DME is new - new hardware, and identical software as the original. I left thinking they both are gone - strange, but I suppose possible.

Thanks Richard. I traced the two wires from whatever connector I am looking at back to the rear trunk, through X59 and was able to determine continuity on both. Starting to understand some of the names of things on the wiring diagrams. I just don't know if I am checking the sensor, which would mean I am not checking the real problem, or if I am checking the valve. I think the valve is under the cam cover and cant be tested for real without removel of the cover. Just not sure.

I can't make these codes go away. Still have them in both banks. 2004 986S Is this the connector for the hydraulic valve control solenoid, or is this the oil level sensor, or the camshaft sensor? I also see another sensor farther aft, but it looks like a speed sensor. I think I am looking at the camshaft sensor, which I guess doesn't really help me determine if anything is wrong electrically or mechanically with the solenoid. I gather the solenoid valve is "inside", so I am not even sure there is an external connector. Do you have to remove the valve covers to really check out the solenoid pin resistance, voltage, etc. as outlined in the diagnostic check? When I use Durametric drive links and "activate" control valve lifter bank 1 & 2, I do not hear anything, or find anything different in how the motor runs. http://photos.streetfire.net/photo/1690767.htm

More progress, I think. At last report, you will recall I had starting and idling problems, a PSM/ABS failure and hydraulic solenoid valve errors in both banks. I spent most of yesterday checking continuity of wires, checking connectors, looking at wire bundles, etc. Again. I still did not find anything. In searching renntech on the ABS/PSM failure, I ran across the possibility of a bad MAF. Using Mike Focke's trick of trying to run the car with the MAF disconnected, it started up immediately. With the MAF connected, it struggles to start and idle. So, my conclusion is the starting, idling problem till warm and the ABS/PSM are MAF related. I'm hoping Tuesday or Wednesday to have a new MAF in hand. I still get, though, P0026 and P0028 errors in both banks. I'm unsure is I am checking the right thing.

Thanks Richard. Starting to get it now. For CP 26, sheet 24 says: Term. 87, DME rear And places it on the grid at 15cQ That is where the relay box is, and sure enough, I see the suspect wire heading into a relay and that terminal on the relay is marked 87.