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vrauba

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Everything posted by vrauba

  1. I spent the whole day on my back....the good news is I think I solved the problem. When I examined the water temperature sensing unit, I noticed that one of the 4 wires going to it was broken (brown one). It's in a well protected area behind the plastic panels on the underside of the car, but somehow the wire broke in the most inconvenient location (vibration, I suppose)...right at the heel of the plug. It was a bear figuring out how to dismantle the plug...I did cause some damage, but I know now (after learning the hard way) how to disassemble it. It was also a nightmare soldering the wire back together because there is no slack in the wire and it's in an inaccessible area. Anyway, somehow I managed, and once the 4 wires were reconnected to the sensor, the temperature gauge on the dash started working again and I guess it somehow must relay temperature readings to the computer that regulates when the thermostat opens/closes. Now it works like it's supposed to, and it doesn't overheat or overflow anymore. :-) Contact me for specifics if you ever have this problem...I can save you hours of work and tons of frustration.
  2. It should fit...I have 8X18 ET52 and 10X18 ET40 on mine and it works fine. There's still about 7-10mm clearance on inside wheel well. Don't lower the suspension though....that would cause clearance problems.
  3. The temperature gauge stays at 0....never moves from the extreme left position, no matter how long the engine is running. The coolant seems to come out by the right rear wheel when engine is stopped from what seems to be an overflow tube of some sort. The info on the url you sent doesn't seem to match my symptoms. When I refill the tank with clean distilled water, the leaking fluid is much clearer with only a hint of green antifreeze. The first leak was all green...so I'm thinking that the water from reservoir is not circulating through the engine properly....but that would cause high operating temperatures, not 0 degree readings. That's why I thought it might be the thermostat. But a faulty thermostat would also mean high operating temperatures, since I assume the temp sensor is on the engine side of the thermostat, which again would mean I should be getting high temp readings on my gauge vs. no reading. That's why I'm baffled. Any other advice?
  4. Can anyone walk me through thermostat replacement on Boxster 2.7L engine? Any special tools required? Thx. Actually, maybe I'm jumping to conclusions....my water temperature gauge stays on 0, the red warning light flickers and the car leaks about 6 oz. of antifreeze after every drive, noticeable when stopped (I keep topping off with distilled water). Is there a relay involved with the cooling system? Could the temp sensor go bad causing the malfunctions listed above. The engine doesn't seem to run excessively hot, but then again , I've only taken short trips of 7 miles or less since this started happening. My past experience with other makes of cars has been that most cooling issues revolve around a stuck thermostat or a broken or cracked hose. But with this Porsche, im baffled. HELP!!!
  5. Has anyone mixed an OEM solid spoke and hollow spoke on the same axle? The weight difference is close to 5 lbs. I know in the front would be a bad idea because of handling, but i thought perhaps in the rear it would be ok since I believe only one wheel is the drive wheel (without traction control activated), but I'm not sure which side that is. Anyway, I figured if the lighter wheel is mounted on the drive wheel, the other wouldn't matter that much. Am I way wrong? Would it screw up the trany or differential? Any ideas/comments would be appreciated.
  6. Dear openwater and everybody else, I've gone thru the strings of replies to this OBD II question and can't seem to find an answer. I too have two error codes: P1128 and P1130. Did you get a response on how to fix this problem? Car seems to run fine...gas mileage is good, acceleration is good, smokes for a second on start-up, but that's it. If it's running too rich or too lean, how does one fix these? Or is it a bad oxygen sensor (which one)? Vacuum leak? The car is a 2000 Boxster with only 13K miles. Could it simply be bad gas (not me, the fuel in the car)? I checked the fuel cap, it's tight and I got a fresh tank of gas. Should I simply not worry about it and clear the fault messages off the computer, get that pesky "check engine" light off my dash, and merrily be on my way? Or do I need to fix something before it does some real damage.
  7. RE: 2000 Boxster. I've read through the string of postings but have not really gotten anywhere with resolving my problem. Convertible top is in the fully open position. When I press the button on dash...nothing happens...no sound. Parking break light lights up on dash. Convertible top light on dash comes on temporarily when key is turned on but goes out and does not come on when convertible top button is pressed. I checked fuse B6 and D3 and they seem fine. I took out the correct relay and shook it some and replaced it, to no avail. I pressed in and released switch at mirror locking device to see if windows would open slightly. Nothing. I can't see nor really know where the 2 (or more) microswitches are. How can I troubleshoot the relay (easiest to get at)? If that is good, then I'll tackle releasing the convertible top and manually closing it and look for the microswitches...but don't really know how to test them. Is there anywhere to take the relay and/or microswitches to have them bench tested? Any advice or direction would be appreciated. I figure I'd test the actual motor last since its not making any sound and I figure it's not getting any juice. BTY the top mechanism has barely been used and the car only has 12K on it...could relays and switches go bad that soon....never been wet and top always worked in the past. Thanks.
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