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mikey99n

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About mikey99n

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    Member

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  • From
    Miami
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsche Boxster
  1. Hi everyone, Been having a problem with my 99' boxster. Recently, when I start up my car, the engine would shake and then sometimes it would shut off. Then i'd have to restart it again, it'd do the same thing again and shut off. Usually after the 3rd time starting it up, it works fine. It drives normally with no problems and never shuts off once I pass the initial start up problem. Over the past several months, i've also had on and off check engine light that comes on and off, it'd come on for a couple of weeks then off for a couple of weeks. Not sure if this may be related or not. Of note, i changed my MAF sensor a year ago by myself (had no problems after the change that I know of) and also recently had my oil changed (3 weeks ago). Any ideas as to what may be causing this problem? Thanks, mike
  2. Any solutions for this as of yet? My 99 boxster is now having the same problem. However, it used to intermittently send out fluids at random times when I try to use it, but only for one squirt or two. Now it's not working at all. I would think it's clogged somewhere, but I really have no idea how to access any of the hosing system. Any ideas? I was thinking about checking the fuse (is there one for it?) Any help appreciated, thanks.
  3. Do you guys recommend anyone in this area?? Or close to? There's only one porsche dealership in the area that I've seen and they're pretty rude. Also read some bad reviews. Thanks, John
  4. Where do you guys apply this stuff exactly? Do you remove the wheel , take out the brake pads, apply it, and put the pads back in? Or do you just shoot it all in there? Thanks in advance, Mike Brake Newbie
  5. Hi Chris, Thanks for your response. The B rode is the bar located right behind the seats (well, it looks like a B lying on its side)... I recently replaced the "top push rods" and its def not it, I checked those nuts/screws. The system is intacted in all 3 of those places you described, allowing the top to rise at the same time. The problem lies in that the front part of the convertible top lags out while rising on the driver side and rubs against those bars behind the seat (b rods), which prevents it from rising as easily as the passenger's side. I tried looking underneath the convertible top for any loose screws etc, but it is difficult to assess since it's complete sealed off for exterior access... anyone else have any ideas? - Mike
  6. P.S. I don't think it's the transmission cycle being out of sync because as soon as I reach back and release the area that's rubbing against/stuck on the B rode, the top closes normally.
  7. Weird problem that just started occuring. Top was working fine with no problems, then all of a sudden this problem starts. When I close my top, it closes fine..the motors spin evenly at the same time, etc. It closes great and evenly. However, when I open, the passenger side goes up when it should, but the driver side lags. But not only does it lag, it is PUSHING on the back of the B rod of the driver side. I think it's lagging because it's stuck against the B rod and trying to go up. When I reach back, I can release the front part away from the driver side B rod, then it goes up normally with the other side. So my question is, is there some sort of adjustment that somehow loosened up? For instance, is there some sort of bar or string that's supposed to keep the front part of the convertible top from rubbing against the B rod? Because it is definately getting stuck on the B rod...so I figure there's some sort of part that keeps tension so that the front part of the convertible top is constantly pulled back a nudge. Further, putzing around, I found a nut on top of the drain..but I have no clue where that nut goes. I'm assuming this nut belongs to this adjustment piece....any ideas? I've taken a flashlight and looked all over for where this nut could go, but I didn't see any loose ends...maybe I missed it somehow? Thanks for any help. Regards, Mike
  8. Solution: Mutilated the clip that held the black knob to the clamshell. TIP: Make sure you put a piece of towel between the black knob and your car, because as soon as you take the clip off, that black knob will fling backwards and potentially damage something since it's under very high pressure. bought replacement clips for .77 cents each.
  9. Hey everyone, This forum has been so helpful in resolving my top issue. I think i've read through almost every post here... So I have two questions that I'm hoping someone with a bit of top repair experience can help answer: 1) When repairing the push rod, it was extremely difficult to put the plastic joint into the knob. So I just removed the knob from the car, and hammered the knob into the plastic joint. The problem now is that after screwing the knob back into the car, I am unable to tighten the knob because my wrench is too thick to fit between the plastic joint and the place where the knob is screwed onto. Any tips? How did you guys get the plastic piece at the end of the push rod onto the knob? I find it way too difficult to get it on with brute strength with the knob already on the car. UPDATE: Bought thin wrenches off of ebay. Works great. So for those reinstalling the push rods, just remove the knob portion, hammer it into the plastic piece, then screw it back on and tighten the knob with a thin wrench. 2) Both rotors were spinning fine when I opened it, but now right when I am ready to close up and finish, I see that only the driver is spinning. The passenger side has stopped. Any ideas of what could be wrong? All I know is that I set it in the "closed" position on both sides yesterday (and both spun to the closed position until it couldn't spin anymore). I read some threads on here about a transmission cable, but I don't see why my cable could have gone bad, especially with nothing attached to the rotor when I spun it yesterday (it's disconnected from the clamshell and the pushrod) UPDATE: Indeed, it was the transmission cable. It wasn't the cable itself that snap...but the plastic housing. SIGH... Thanks for your help. - Mike
  10. Hi guys, The part # is "4" from the diagram. Sorry for any confusions. I am going to take pictures and write steps for this fix. (I couldn't find one anywhere). I pretty much know what to do, but i am having a LOT of trouble removing the ball joint that holds the canvas down (since it's in the closed position)...so I can fold the top back. I have enough problems removing this ball joint when I can open the back half way. i am trying to do what mark is doing in this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=662 It just won't come off!!! Any advice on how to remove this? I remember when I removed it before, it either comes out SUPER easy or doesn't come out at all. Any pointers? I've spent the last hour wriggling it around and pulling whichever direction i could think of. Thanks! - Mike
  11. Hi everyone, I am a complete top newbie. After spending the last two days on this forum reading through the threads here, I think I have somewhat diagnosed the problem. (pictured below) Can you guys please tell me: 1) What this part is? I believe it's #10 on the parts image below. 2) How much and where can I get it? 3) Are there any special tools I need for the fix? 4) I am currently using one of the guides on here on how to manually open the top from the closed position, but does anyone know if there's a thread on how to fix this part? 5) Do I need to order any other parts other than part #10 (if that's the one?) It's broken on both sides. Sorry for so many questions, but I just wanted to make sure I had all the materials necessary before I begin the fix. I need to use my car everyday and don't want to unhook the ball joints twice to put the top into service position. Thanks everyone!! - Mike P.S. I have a 99' Boxster
  12. Hi Guys, What exactly is the "Porsche Lever" tool? I am attempting to fix my top using the above post. I am going to buy the tool from pep boys, but am in need of the "porsche lever" tool to open the red bolt apparently. Any suggestions if a similar tool at pep boys? If not, know of a place that I can get it? Thanks in advance. Good job on the forum everyone! - Mike
  13. Kim, I had the same problem on my 1999 boxster. The keys are stuck because it locks into the mechanism in the radio, in order to release the keys, you need to manually push down on the locking mechanism through the side of the radio, however, in order to do this, you need to take the radio out. The radio is not locked in place in any way, it's just stuck in there because of friction. What I did (and what you should probably do) is remove the A/C unit or whatever unit that sits on top of your radio. Then take your hand, reach back there and PULL the radio out with your hands from the back, this way you can move the radio easier without yanking on the keys. Once the radio comes out, you will be able to access the sides of where the key is stuck, push down on the locking mechanism, and pull out the keys. - Mike P.S. When you put the radio back in, you will probably need to use your keys again to depress the mechanism, but this time, only push the keys in just enough to retract the locking mechanisms but not so far that the keys will lock into place.
  14. Hi there, I got a 99' boxster and had the EXACT SAME problem. I got it fixed for around 50 bucks. (took him 20 mins to do) basically, the tech takes apart the side door's panel and then he READJUST the window so that it's back more so it can seal better. (you can actually do this yourself if you have all the tools, just pop the plastics out and unscrew..) Leaks, wind noises, etc all stopped. Good luck!
  15. Hi all, I need your advice. I have the SmartTop installed for my 99' boxster. Anyways, I hit the open button after releasing the hatch HOWEVER the freaking hatch's hook was still in a position that it can get caught. So needless to say, the convertible top was stuck pulling for like 6 seconds because the hook got caught when opening when I realized what was going on, I quickly pulled the hatch to release it. Where should I look to see if anything was damaged from this? Because when I released the hatch, it made a big noise but I don't remember if that was from the hatch being released or if something popped. My top goes up and down fine, but when it is fully closed, it doesn't seal all the way like it used to, (say about an inch or two off), but after the hatch is applied, it seals fine because the hatch sorts of pull it into place. Any pictures with arrows telling me where I can look for the most likely damage is appreciated. - Mike
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