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993BillW

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Everything posted by 993BillW

  1. BMW has done this for years, there's even a formula they use to determine whether the error is within their acceptable range (and it's a pretty WIDE range, in excess of 10% IIRC). They claim it's because of European penelties they face if a car ever displays slower than what it's actually going and that includes if the car has aftermarket/oversize wheels. My 993 is spot on, the '10 Cayenne was off by 1 - 2%, I have yet to measure the Macan but will do so promptly.
  2. The Ulift tool worked great. Got it up to 25 lbs vac. and it stayed steady for 90 sec (man says do for 20 sec for leak test) and it sucked up the coolant mix just fine. Still have to do 1 or 2 drive/let cool checks but overall worked great. Thanks for the tip.
  3. Brace doesn't need to come off if you don't have the drain plug in the bottom of the radiator. Unfortunately I don't know if you can see the drain plug with the brace on. I would suggest you only loosen/remove the brace on the pass side and loosen the driver's side just enough to let the pass side fall and look for the plug. No plug button it back up and remove the lower radiator hose.
  4. After replacing my coolant tubes, water pump, s. belt ect a couple of comments: Another DIY for the serpentine belt says the idler arm (release arm) is 27mm, on my '06 "S" it's 30 mm. Also, when you're replacing the belt let the new belt hang lengthwise to straighten itself out as long as possible. When you first pull it out of the sleeve it's fairly curvy and usually not in the places you need it to curve, makes it a challenge to get all the slack out to put it back on the idler. As far as my (old) serpentine belt's condition, it was still in very good shape, no cracks. So based on my (1) data point I feel I could have waited until I hit 90k mi. (I'm at 65k now) to replace the belt and the water pump.
  5. Does anyone know the torque for the water pump bolts? Is it 10 Nm (7.5 ft lb)?
  6. First off, my parts kit didn't include the small o-ring that goes in the front of the T-stat housing (for the coolant line that goes down to the alt), should it have been part of the kit? I would recommend replacing it. Also mine didn't include the gasket(s) for the thermostat housing, I would definately recommend replacing that. I have a Macgyver solution for removing coolant ect from the small crevices of the engine, only wish I had thought of this before I started the tube replacement. Of course one of these days I'm going to buy a fluid extractor...... Using a wet/dry vac insert a 2' piece of clear vinyl tubing (apx 3/8" dia) into the crevice tool of the vacuum cleaner (my tubing stayed held in the crevice tool just fine), DO NOT TAPE or otherwise close the rest of the opening, there's plenty of suction going through the tube. Use the other end of the tube to vacuum up the coolant. It can also be used to extract coolant from the other openings in the engine. It worked superbly for me, only wish I had figured it out earlier. I have a photo I'll post later. I used a Dremel MultiMax tool to cut the coolant pipe, it worked fantastic. I have a suggestion for getting the large pipe ends out that doesn't involve trying to cut the inner sleeve. I had a hell of a time getting that sleeve out of the rear crosssection. Leave apx 1.5" of plastic pipe on the ends when you cut them (both ends). Then drill 1/4" hole through both sides of the remailing pipe, as far back as you can go w/out damaging the insert area. Have about a 9" section of light link chain. Next take a long handle philips screwdriver and slide it in the hole then through the chain end and then through the other side of the pipe. You should be able to rotate the pipe end about 45 deg. with the screwdriver. Insert a pry bar through the other end of the chain and brace the pry bar against one of the ribs on the head/block. Now pull on the pry bar at the same time as you use the screwdriver to rotate the pipe end, the pipe end should "walk" out of the receptical. Do much the same for the pipe piece in the thermostat housing. I thought of this after I had removed both pieces but I did something very simular on the t-stat housing end and it worked great.
  7. Great, don't need to go to the dealer for the coolant! I knew I didn't have to use Porsche's liquid gold but wasn't sure what brands could be substituded. May get started on this sooner than I anticipated. Thanks again.
  8. It actually says something like "leak detector" in the tools full name. Got a couple of deliveries today, all the Porsche parts from Hennessey and the tool from Amazon. That was fast! Amazon Prime is great.
  9. Never really heard about pulling the DME relay...but it sounds like a good idea. Any negatives to doing this? I'm going to be pulling my 993T out of storage in a month or so and of course thinking about stuff just like this. I realize this is an old post but pulling the DME relay is good to do after log periods of storage or even after you change the oil. I turn the engine over until I get at least 2 bar and then put the relay back in and fire it up. Works well.
  10. I don't know where you got your price quote, but you can buy the Stant pressure tester (STA 12270) for $72.38 on Amazon, or $69.78 at ToolTopia. As for Porsche adaptors, there are two; 12016 will test the vehicle and sells for about $40; 12017 will test the cooling system cap, and sells for about $10. I have two of the Stant testers, and an entire case full of adaptors to fit just about anything, and I didn't pay anywhere near $500 for everything....................... Yes, I misremembered. :blush: yes the tester was about $75 but when I looked at Stant's site the adapter kit set for Porsche (and VW and Audi) is kit #10046 which is priced around $230 from the quick check I did. Oh well, I'll make do with the vac kit.
  11. Outstanding. Yes, I have a 25 Gal. compressor so I'm set there. I'll put my Amazon Prime to work (again). Thanks again. Ordered it and finally got around to ordering the Form-a-Funnel too http://www.formafunnel.com/ Funnel is primarily for the 993 though.
  12. Stumbled on this topic while researching the Coolant Tube DIY. Geez guys, 7/32 works just fine in place of 5.5. Pretty sure all my 1/4" drive kits come with it. 7/32 = 5.5563mm I made up a couple of conversion charts (1 for torque and 1 for size) that I keep taped to the lid of my tool chest, they come in handy. I'll try to attach them here. dec-mm-conv.pdf Torque Conversion Chart.pdf
  13. Getting ready to do the coolant pipes and water pump on my '06 "S". It was recommended on a couple of DIY's to pressure test the system before putting the intake manifold back on (makes sense to me). However, it seems the adapters for the Porsche cooling system are rare (and expensive). I like the idea of the $45 MityVac MV4560 Cooling System Pressure Test Kit http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_cse.asp as it wouldn't be a tool I would use much but they don't seem to have a adapter for the Porsche. Looking at others it seems the Stant http://www.stant.com/Consumer-Products/Testers---Adapters/Cooling-System/ is one of the few that does but between the tester and the adapter I would have to spend close to $500, and that's not an option. The only other idea I can come up with is to use my existing cooling system cap, fabricate an adapter in it and order a new cap for the car. Are there any other options/suggestions? TIA
  14. I tried to donate today, went to http://www.renntech.org/forums/donate/ , clicked on <Donate> button but nothing happens. Mac running Lion Firefox 9.0.1 Bill EDIT: 3rd time was a charm. First 2 times I hit the Donate button nothing happened, even went out and used a siff. link to get there. 3rd time (after posting in this thread) and everything worked fine, inc. PayPal link. Bill
  15. Scratching my head.... what is a DVS? Not going to get 15.9 driving like that... LOL. Must be nice to have your own test track LOL(2)!
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