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kunkstyle

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Everything posted by kunkstyle

  1. kunkstyle
    Did you take it out when you swapped seats?
  2. kunkstyle
    Ran it with the belt off to eliminate the possibility of bad belt/pulleys. Turns out it was the throwout bearing. Got a new clutch and bearing installed. Sounds great now!
  3. kunkstyle
    Which infiniti's did you upgrade to? Did you have to do much trimming to get them to fit?
  4. kunkstyle
    Another update: Had someone over here today looking at it with me. He suggested it may be the clutch release bearing. When I push the clutch in the noise does not reduce, but it does change in pitch/frequency. Any idea if that's a DIY replacement? Or does that require an engine drop to get to? Also, I found out that running the car with the MAF unplugged not only gets you a check engine light, but also disables PSM and ABS.
  5. kunkstyle
    +1. I think I had about 3 smaller extensions to get to them.
  6. kunkstyle
    Crosspost from rennlist: Started the car about a month ago to an unpleasant sound. Upon startup it made a squeal (which sounded to me like a belt or pulley), but after warming up and driving a few blocks it faded. If I start it up overnight in approx 10+C conditions it's a faint sound that goes away, but if I leave it out below that it's a rather loud squeal, then goes away, always at operating temp. Any ideas what this could possibly be or where to start troubleshooting? '00 C2, manual, 103k kms, no engine mods. --- update --- Did some digging today. Bought a stethoscope, the whole 9 yards. The pulleys all sound fine. Lubed a few of the noisier ones. Power steering fluid is at the max line, coolant is topped up, no oil leaks, belt is in superb condition... Still squealing. Goes away after I hit operating temp, and won't do it again untill the car has been sitting for hours in the cold. While digging I found it odd that the noise was more prominent from the wheel wells than at the engine. I'm at a loss. Anyone? ~thanks
  7. kunkstyle
    If you still have all the manuals there's a wiring diagram with the becker manual. Another option is to pick up an Audi/VW wiring harness from Metra. I didn't take pics when I did mine, and I don't remember the colour coding.
  8. kunkstyle
    Thanks for the help. It worked perfectly. I'll give it a temperature test tomorrow after it's had a chance to mix into the system.
  9. kunkstyle
    Related question to the topic - if I want to bring my freezing protection to a colder temp (it's at -35 now, I'd like at least -40), is there an easy way to do it? My coolant is at the max line now, so adding becomes difficult without draining or syphoning some out, and I don't want to get any air trapped in the system.
  10. kunkstyle
    That grommet that holds the lock mechanism always pops out on mine.
  11. kunkstyle
    Thanks. Didn't see it in the amazon.ca store, so I assumed it couldn't be shipped here. Looks like they can though!
  12. kunkstyle
    I can't find a wrench that'll work in this city for the life of me. I did however find an adjustable one, like so: Will this work? It says it's good for 2 1/4 to 4 1/2. Just worried about it being metal and the cap being graphite...
  13. kunkstyle
    The Snap-on spark plug socket listed, is that just a regular spark plug socket?
  14. kunkstyle
    Went down to the garage, took a look at removing headliner, and figured it'd be an easy way for me to turn a quick DIY fix into an expensive dealership mess. Took it to the dealer last night before I messed things up, got 'er fixed up today. Apparently it was a cracked/broken seal from the drain lines to the accumulation area. Upholstry was never my strong point :huh: Thanks for all the help.
  15. kunkstyle
    I've got my seat moved almost all the way forward with the ultimate cupholder. It's sitting a hair off-kilter, but still works great.
  16. kunkstyle
    Are the coupe drains completely different? I found the rubber end and pulled it off (behind the tire, not in front as the other thread shows) (it currently remains off). The drain just looks like a black tube. I tried to run a wire through it and only got about a cm up before the wire stopped. A bend in the drain, perhaps? Is there an easy way to take the rear plastic wheel well cover off? The one towards the front of the rear wheel was easy, but the one on the backside seems like it's connected to the bumper assembly. Without taking this off I can't put the rubber nozzle back on. Also, what steps are required to do the top portion of the drain? Entire head liner removal? Called the dealership and said it'd be a minimum charge of $500 to check it out. I found the thread to remove the headliner. I assume this is how to access the drains? TIA.
  17. kunkstyle
    Thanks! That'll do nicely. Apparently my search skills are lacking.
  18. kunkstyle
    When I washed the car today I noticed water dripping from the headliner in the rear seats, right near the top of the rear window. Did a search and found where the drainage points are, but couldn't find any pics or instructions on how to access them. Does anybody have a procedure (or a link to one that I missed on the forum)? I don't want to start tearing stuff apart that doesn't need to be to access them. TIA.
  19. kunkstyle
    Heat it up with a hair dryer, then run a length of fishing wire behind it to take it off. Wash off any residue. Not sure what the part number is, but you can order them online at bumperplugs.com. What kind of car wash were you using?
  20. kunkstyle
    Looking for one as well. Part source, walmart, and canadian tire all didn't have them...
  21. kunkstyle
    Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try cleaning it this weekend. (And stay out of the wet weather!)
  22. kunkstyle
    Got the codes off it today. P1130 : Porsche fault code 361 - Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 2 P1128 : Porsche fault code 360 - Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 1
  23. kunkstyle
    Thanks for all the comments. Looking at that link it seems pretty doable. I'll check the codes when I pick up the durametric software on thurs and report back.
  24. kunkstyle
    2 days into 996 ownership and I'm already asking repair questions :huh: Driving it back home the other day the CEL rang in. Won't have a chance to check it until thursday, but the last owner said that he recieved an "air to fuel mixture lean on banks 1 and 3" CEL any time he drove it in wet weather (which I was doing at the time). If this is the same CEL (which I'm hoping), from viewing other threads I've gathered that it could be a coil pack issue. The previous owner's tech thought it could be an MAF issue as well. Any thoughts/suggestions/troubleshooting tips? Is it a problem to drive it for a month until I can get it fixed? No idle issues, temps, oil pressures etc. are good as well. Also, if it is a coil pack replacement, is it a difficult DIY to do (not an expert mechanic in any sense of the word, but I can usually fumble my way around through a lot of jobs)? Or could this be a shop job? Thanks in advance for the help (and my apologies if this is in the wrong thread). - - - edit - - - Forgot the specs... 2000 996 C2 Coupe Manual transmission, US spec
  25. kunkstyle
    Thanks for the warm welcome! Don't have a whole lot of pics yet, but here it is on the way back from Montana where I picked it up. Weather was miserable (we hit some white outs on the way down), but the drive was a blast!
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