keninirvine

My 05 cab had that problem a year or so ago. Took it to dealer and they found the drain in the AC evaporator was plugged. Fixed under warranty.

I suggest you wire a switch from the fuse box, to a switch, directly to the solenoid, bypassing the DME for full control. On/off at will. My switch is in ashtray. I agree. That is the way I did mine. I found a small rocker switch that actually fit in the "but snuffer" in the ash tray and took my power from a switched source in fuse box to the rocker switch, then to the solenoid. I simply turn the PSE on and off at will. The other wiring to the DME etc. only complicates everything, and controls the PSE by engine speed etc which is unnecessary. The wiring is the most time-consuming part of the job, especially getting the wires from engine bay through large wiring grommet into the rear of passenger compartment.

I just bought this 2006 CAB S Dark Olive metallic 22K miles with CPO for $75,000 from dealer. Full Leather Cocoa and Cocoa Top NAV BOSE Just out of curiosity, is there any reason you guys that are sharing photos etc. aren't doing it on 6speedonline or Rennlist forums where these types of posts get much more visibility? I view RennTech as a more technical discussion forum. Just my 2 cents.

The Carrera Sport wheels are wider thereby requiring 305/30/19 tires to fit better. The spacers some people use on the narrower wheels are purely for cosmetic purposes (to push the wheels closer to the edge of the wheel wells). In most cases, the use of spacers is likely to make handling worse, since it throws off the steering geometry when used on the front wheels. People generally select wheels based either on the looks or the weight, or both. The Carrera Sports look great in my opinion, but are the heaviest of the factory wheels. When I had Sport Designs, I just spent the time cleaning them, which only amounted to a few extra minutes per wheel. But I didn't attempt to do the portion of the rim on the inside of the spokes. I'm not that obsessive about it. Another option is to purchase the cheapest wheels with the car, and then change them out to after-market wheels which come in more varieties and lower weight.

I think just about all manufacturers including Porsche make their exhausts out of Stainless Steel standard these days True, but Porsche, up to and including the 997.1, offered it as an option. Maybe, with the 997.2, it is now a standard feature. Thanks. My Targa 4S came with the stainless steel exhaust system. To me it is a little misleading, as all it gives you is shiny exhaust tips. I don't believe there is anything else unique to the SS exhaust system.

Unless my gauge is incorrect. I am running 37 front 42 rear. I am going to double check with another gauge though just to be sure. I adjusted my tires (cold) with my digital tire gauge last weekend to the recommended 37 and 44 psi. I found the TPMS was reading about 2-4 psi lower than my measured pressures.

I thought about doing this, but Dynamat is pretty darn heavy. Yes, unfortunately it takes substances with higher mass to block low frequency noise, which is primarily the problem with tires.

I've heard the same thing, but don't know what exceptions there may be. Safest assumption would be that wiring for a non-factory equipped option can't be assumed to be there and will need to be verified. For example, wiring for a PSE system is not included in all cars, so to install one, the hardest part of the install is getting the control wiring from front console area back through the large grommet into the engine compartment. I'd be very surprised if a PASM conversion was feasible.

I can't imagine it would be practical to convert a car. There are all sort of tubes and wiring running around the car to support PASM. I would think if it was that important to you, buy a car with it factory installed.

If by late model you mean a 997 (2005 or newer), there isn't much to pick and choose between the years. They are all pretty reliable. The main decision is whether you want/need a "4" or a "s" or a "4s". There has been plenty of discussion on the pros and cons of these models, but it is mostly personal choice that dictates. With the endless list of options, the biggest task is choice of model and options that are important to YOU. Suggest you look at lots of them to help identify those features that are "must haves" and which ones are "nice to have" and which ones are not important. It is a buyer's market these days, so be patient and strong.

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right. I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?) Here is some info on sizes and torque settings: Oil drain plug: 8mm hex Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs Oil filter canister size: 74 mm Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly) Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly. Your torque values don't agree with others I've seen, which are 18 ft lbs for oil drain plug, and 1.8 foot pounds for oil canister. These are what I torqued mine to today when I changed my oil. According to the 997 Porsche Service Manual Drain plug: 37 ftlb. (50 Nm) Oil Canister: 19 ftlb. (25.8 Nm) So, rdevillers is correct. Thanks for clarifying this. I'll pass it on to the member who provided the other numbers, and I'll re-torque my items!

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right. I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?) Here is some info on sizes and torque settings: Oil drain plug: 8mm hex Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs Oil filter canister size: 74 mm Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly) Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly. Your torque values don't agree with others I've seen, which are 18 ft lbs for oil drain plug, and 1.8 foot pounds for oil canister. These are what I torqued mine to today when I changed my oil.

For anyone not comfortable with doing their own oil change, instead of taking it to a dealer, take it to a qualified shop in your area. An example: my 20k service, which isn't much more than an oil change, cost me over $800 at my dealer (known to be expensive). I called a local Porsche shop recommended by local PCA members, and they would have done the same thing (including cabin filter etc.) for $265.

Please give some feedback after your installations. I think any difference in power will be due to the 200 cell cats and softronic. Of course, by doing everything at once you won't know where the benefit may be coming from.

I didn't try the PSE with my old headers, so don't know what the X51 headers may be contributing to the great sound. But it is deeper than I expected, to my (pleasant) surprise. Previous poster wanted photos. I've attached one showing the stock manifold and the X51 manifold.

Thanks for the information about the "cap". I'll make sure to review this step if I go with the PSE. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SOUND CLIPS YOU CAN POST USING THE EXHAUST MOD SHOWN ABOVE? I'm curious about the sound versus the PSE. Thanks. I just installed a PSE on my car. To me it was worth the extra work to wire it up to an on-off switch so I can make the choice of loud vs quiet. I find I use the switch quite often. But if you don't expect to want the quiet version, the exhaust mod is probably the best bang for the buck, and I understand the sound is very similar to the loud setting of the PSE. Good luck.

Any pics of old and new? Hi, No, sorry...if you go to the Europipe website you can see the x51 headers there...they claim the x51s are as good or better than anything you can buy so.... rather than making their own, they use the X51's Chromedome I changed mine out this past weekend too. They were quite easy on my Targa4S, although I wish I had a hoist! I had to loosen a hose clamp to get access to the rear manifold bolt on the passenger side header, and had no problems restarting the bolts. Biggest challenge was getting the new manifold gasket in position during installation of the new manifold. I've got photos that I'll send later this week. I haven't noticed any difference in the headers, but to me the X51 headers just look better (big deal eh?). I also put a PSE system on at the same time, so the main improvement is ability to add noise on demand.

Here is a tip for you..... You can use your org. muffler and do a simple mod like this and it will only costs you about $400 to have a great sprot engine sound! I've seen people on the forums that indicate this mod can be done for under $200 by most reputable exhaust shops.

I put the SmarTop module on my 05 C2S cab a year ago. I would contact the manufacturer, but I believe the units are different for the Boxster and the C2S cabs. I doubt they come in any other form than the ones that offer about 8 features. I liked the one-touch up and down for the windows, the ability to control all 4 windows with the computer stalk, the ability to over-ride the rear window controls by holding the front window controls, and of course best of all was the remote control of the top and one-touch control for it from the inside switch. For the C2S cab, the install is very simple, no wiring. Just insert the module in line with the existing one. By contrast the unit for my Targa (same as coupe) required much more wiring work to install, which I did yesterday. Ignore the extra features you don't want and do it. It is a really great feature on the cabs, much more so than the coupes/Targas.

It was my understanding that unless a car is factory equipped for MF controls, the PCM wiring will not be in the steering column to connect to the MF steering wheel controls. Is this incorrect?

I paid $73,900 for my 06 997 C4S with a GT3 Kit in April. The car's retail sticker was $105,000. Noting that the new 997's are going to cost about $4000 more than the older models, my exact car would probably cost around $110,000. I'm not a hp and junkie and am totally happy with my car. These mods, along with a built in radar dector are the only things that I am planning to do to my car. So I'd rather spend ~$5000 than pay an extra $40,000 for basically the same car. I will eagerly be watching for developments on your experiment. I fear though that the cost to essentially replace most of the center stack arrangement and all the PCM guts that go with it will be far more than $5000. Given how Porsche customizes wiring harnesses etc., replacement of that stuff could be brutally expensive. However, I'm keeping my fingers crossed to be pleasantly surprised.

Ken here. You're right, the sunshade for the 2008 Targa now supersedes the one used on the 2007 Targa (both 997 models). The part number for the 2007 Targa started with "996-" . The new part number that supersedes this starts with "997-". It therefore appears that the sunshade used in the 2007 Targa is the same as the one used in the earlier 996 Targa. I appreciate the clarification of chassis types, although I don't think they come into play here. But various people had told me that the Targas were built on cab chassis. It now appears that only the 996 Targas were made that way, and that the 997 Targas are based on a C4S chassis. This may explain why the 997 Targa weighs less than a C2S cab. Now, if I could just find a set of lowering springs for it. Most manufacturers don't know enough about the Targa to know whether their springs will work or not. I would think springs for a C4S should work given their apparent common chassis design.

I'm still learning my way around this site, so pardon any duplication of requests until I find where best to post them. I'm wanting to replace my 07 Targa sunshade with the 08 version, which is denser (thus letting in less sun). Is there anywhere on this site that I can find info on what is involved to remove/replace the sunshade, such as Workshop manuals? Or, has anyone worked on a 996 or 997 sunshade that could tell me if I'm crazy to even consider doing it myself?

I ordered an XPA stone gray wheel from Sunset Porsche in Oregon. Their price was MUCH better than your dealer (as usual)....less than $1300 (no air bag). I know it is a small change in thickness, but after feeling XPA wheels on other cars, I think it feels much richer than the plastic feeling standard sport wheel on my Targa.

I'm relatively new to this forum, so bear with me. I'm still trying to find my way around the site. I have 2 questions: 1) I'm considering replacing the sunshade on my 07 Targa with the new denser version used on the 08 Targas (the 08 supercedes the old one). Is there a way to find any information on how to replace the sunshade? 2) I'm planning to install a used PSE on my car. The PSE instruction guide refers to numerous Workshop manual chapters that cover things like removing interior trim etc. Is any of this information available on this site? Thanks