356driver

Had a hole poked in the headliner of my 63 B coupe and was told by Klasse 356 in Allentown PA that the windshield and Rear glass needed to be removed to accomplish this and the cost was in the range of $2000, of which the majority was labor. I held off and have been living with the tear. Goood Luck Pete356B $2000 seems extreme. I installed my own headliner when I was restoring my 63 B coupe. When the car was apart I could have had someone do the headliner itself for $100. The procedure for installing the headliner is well described in the 356 Technical and Restoration Guide. Suffice to say it involves patience, glue and a lot of large black paper clamps available at office supply stores. It is very doable if you don't mind spending the time. If your car is already assembled you have to remove the front and rear glass. You also have to remove the rear quarter windows and the rubber gaskets around the windows and doors. But none of this is rocket science. If you don't want to do it yourself I would shop around. It's not a $2000 job.

That is correct - directly above the CD-changer. It's the box with cooling fins on top. To get access you have to pull back the top of the side panel. It's a lot of trouble but can be done. Please let me know if you really want to get into such a project and I'll post instructions.

I installed mine with good results. Here is a previous thread with my writeup (scroll to bottom): http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3012&hl= Have fun!

I didn't believe this at first but there is in fact a PCM option for Tire Change. It is under the NAVI SET options as described in section 8.12 of the PCM2 Manual. If you push the NAVI button and then the SET button you have several options including: Tire Change By selecting Tire Change using the rotary knob 16 the system is informed that the vehicle tires have been changed. The query Reset calibration? is made. The options Yes and No are available. - Yes Resets the calibration and starts recalibration. - No Recalibration is not started. The menu returns to Navigation Set. (quoted from manual) Recalibration? Recalibration of what?? Could it be the speedometer gets recalibrated based on GPS input? I am just guessing, but if that's true then I am truly amazed. If not, then who knows what this means?

I just had a similar problem although I have PCM. I was able get the sound to reappear by turning the ignition on without starting the engine, waiting a few seconds and then turning it off. This seems to be a cure when you need many of the digital electronics in the car to reboot. My guess is that the sound problem is neither the head unit nor the BOSE amplifier. I believe it is a glitch in the communications between the two. The MOST bus interconnects the head unit, the amplifier and the CD changer. Sometimes on a communications bus, devices can drop off or get locked out of the channel when an error occurs. You need to restart the system to get them to re-initialize themselves on the bus. That's my speculative analysis of the problem. The only way to prove or disprove the theory is to have instrumentation capable of monitoring the MOST bus. Any thoughts or comments from others are welcome.

I had the same problem in So. Cal. weather last month. It was very annoying to have the continuous warnings and the dome light staying on. The dealer fixed it immediately. It looks like I was lucky to avoid the parts shortage.

Mudman's description is basically correct. I replaced my lightweight bumper with a hitch. Here are a few random thoughts: - One big gotcha to avoid. The bolts for the two types of bumpers are different sizes. Be sure you have the correct bolts (8 of them) for the lightweight bumper. - Also be sure you have the foam piece for the replacement bumper. - If you have keyless entry there is an antenna that lays sideways in the foam piece. You will have to disconnect the antenna lead that goes into the left quarter panel cavity behind the rear wheel well. - Get help sliding the rear apron on and off. It is an awkward shape, is made of flexible plastic, and it doesn't want to go where you want it to go. It is much safer to do this with two people to avoid paint scratches. - If you remove the hitch controller unit (rear cargo side panel compartment forward of the CD changer) you will need to have a bunch of faults cleared with a PST2. Or you can just leave the controller in there - it doesn't weigh much. :) Have fun.

You should probably become acquainted with the MOST bus technology used to connect the factory-supplied audio components. MOST (Media-oriented Systems Transport) is a fibre-optic networking standard that is aimed at the automotive industry. As used in the Cayenne, MOST fibre is used to digitally connect the FM tuner in the front console, the Bose amplifier in the the cargo bay, and the CD changer (if optioned). Unless Euro versions of the Cayenne are different than here in the US, I believe you are going to find it a challenge to find copper wire in any useful location. <_<

Congrats - sounds like a great product. Where did you order it?

It is possible that a new engine will burn extra oil while the piston rings seat, but this sounds excessive. And break-in shouldn't last more than a couple thousand miles at most. My Cayenne TT uses a quart every 4000 miles and has done so since it had 5K miles on the odometer. You should be suspicious that your dealer is BS-ing you. I suggest you get a second opinion from a different dealer. You should also start documenting your oil consumption in case you need to convince someone at PCNA that your car needs some (very expensive) warranty work.

Hi Mudman, I recently purchased a Delphi Skyfi2 and temporarily have it rigged with a "cupholder" mount and magnet antenna on the front center speaker grill. I want to install it permanently and will also try to put the antenna into the spoiler. I'll be following your progress with great interest. Out of curiosity what kind of radio did you get and where are you planning to mount it? Loren, thanks for the pointer to the TSB. - 356driver

Yesterday I installed my tow system but ran into a problem. The hitch itself was not too hard to install although it is time consuming. But I ran into a problem installing the wiring harness and controller inside the side compartment of the cargo bay. The wiring harness enters the side compartment through a grommeted hole below the tail light. The harness is supposed to be routed up to a spot forward of the CD changer. There is a spot reserved for the tow system controller at this location. In order to access this area the side panel of the cargo compartment must be removed. My problem is I can't figure out how to remove the side panel. Can anyone help me out? To be clear, this is the interior panel on the passenger side of the cargo bay where the CD changer, first aid kit and emergency triangle live. This is not urgent as I do not plan to tow a trailer anytime soon. But it would be nice to complete the installation correctly. Thanks in advance.

I suggest you check the size and depth of the screen very carefully before you start cutting. I have heard that many aftermarket LCD screens will not fit into the Cayenne's small headrests. At least one company, Quality Mobile Video, sells replacement headrests with screens, but they are pricey. (Disclaimer - I don't have any affiliation with that company.) I hope this helps.

No problems with my Cayenne TT. In fact it is one of the quietest cars I have ever driven. I do get wind noise from my front roof carrier if I don't have the rubber strip installed in the slot. Could this be the problem?

The rear mud guards are straightforward. Start with the rears if you want to build a little confidence before doing the fronts. The only trick is to drill the mounting holes where they should be, not where the marks on the plastic are. Hold them or temporarily mount them in place and drill. Don't worry if the little anchor clips aren't close enough to the edge of the plastic to intersect the holes. Instead, put them behind the plastic and use them as "nuts" to anchor the screws. Good luck.

The metal "boomerang" strip is for the front guards. It is installed behind the plastic liner. It fits with the biggest hole toward the top next and to the fender. It curves down toward the inside of the bottom of the wheel well. Because of the bend in the brackets they are each specific to the left and right sides of the car. If you hold one of them up to the outside of the liner it will be pretty apparent how it fits because the top hole and the third hole down (I think) already have torx screws that show you the right place. You use these torx screws to temporarily mount the bracket on the outside of the liner, and then you drill the other holes. Then you dismount the bracket, move it to the inside, and remount it with a couple of screws to hold it in place while you are mounting the mud guard. The small holes in the bracket are the right size to serve as the inner anchor for the torx screws you use to mount the mud guard. You do not have to remove the entire liner to install the mud guards. You just have to remove enough of the torx screws to be able to peel the bottoms of the liners in to give you access to the inside (rear) surface. This should be a pretty painless job if you are careful about it. I hope this helps and have fun!

One comment about steps #4 and #9. There are actually two torx screws holding in the light. (They are T27 on my Cayenne TT by the way.) After you remove the easily accessible bottom torx screw you stilll have one mounting screw at the top. The top one is above the light box that sticks out of the wheel well. If you can't find it, reference your yet-to-be-installed clear light unit. Feel around with your finger and torx driver until you engage the screw and then remove it. The trick is that it is impossible to get this screw back into the hole with the light unit in place. Instead, start the top torx screw BEFORE you put the light unit into the car. But only turn it a couple of times, leaving lots of space behind the head of the screw. Then carefully twist and wiggle your new light unit into place so the top mount slips behind the head of the screw. Then tighten the top screw, followed by reinserting and tightening the bottom screw.

OK so I did them today. They weren't too hard but here are a few tips: 1. You have to drill so double check that everything is lined up before punching holes in your car. All of the pieces can be temporarily mounted for the purposes of drilling new holes and all the drilling spots are within easy reach. Before you start, remember... 2. You have to take the wheels off to get at everything. You will be removing torx screws that hold on the plastic wheel well lining and pull the lining back to get behind it. 3. On the front mud guards remove the torx screws from the top mounting screw of the mud guard to the ones completely inside the bootm edge of the wheel well. There is also a hidden torx screw that you access underneath and behind the wheel well (it is near the jack point). Once you undo all of these you will have loosened the lining enough to maneuver the metal bracket behind it. I have seen a couple of gripes about installing these metal brackets, so here is a technique that makes it easier... 4. On the front mud guards the metal bracket goes behind the lining. You have to drill two new holes to install it, but there are two torx screws already in the right places. So using those two existing screws mount the bracket in FRONT of the wheel well lining to line up where to drill the two new holes. Once drilled, then remove the bracket and screw it into place BEHIND the lining in two places. (Forget about the two-way tape that is supposed to hold the bracket in place, it will just get in the way of maneuvering the bracket into place.) Once the bracket is lined up correctly and held in place with torx screws, then mount the mud guard by removing each screw one at a time and remounting them with the mud guard in place. 5. Lastly, there are sometimes little clips (included) that are used to anchor screws near the edge of a plastic panel where new holes are drilled. Sometimes the holes aren't near enough the edge of the panel for the clips to intersect the hole. Fear not, just use the clips as a "nut" on the other side of the hole and don't worry whether it is near the edge or not. That way you can drill the hole where it best lines up for the installation, instead of being constrained to being near the edge of the plastic. I am very happy with the results of this project - I doubt if a dealer would have done any better job than I did. This is within reach of an average do-it-yourselfer. The main thing is to be careful and double check everything before drilling any holes, because you can't undrill a hole.

I will be installing a set of four OEM mud guards (flaps) on my Cayenne. This doesn't seem like rocket science, but just for safety does anyone have any instructions? If not, are there any hidden gotchas I should know about? Thanks in advance.

Shipping was by UPS surface with no extra charge added by the dealer. No handling charges other than the 15% over dealer cost included in the quoted prices (as advertised).

Sunset Imports deserves a pat on the back for great service. I inquired about "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost" through the Renntech web site. I received prices and availability within an hour. The prices were lower than anywhere else. I completed the transaction by phone, during which the technician offered advice and even a copy of installation instructions for one of the accessories I was considering. The parts were shipped next business day and UPS tracking info was emailed to me. These guys were very professional in all respects. For those who need parts or accessories I wouldn't hesitate to do business with Sunset Imports. My small contribution toward becoming a Renntech Member more than paid off with this one transaction, and there will be more. I am not affiliated with Sunset Imports or Renntech.org but please feel free to cross post this message.

Thanks for the responses. I had my tire shop switch the sensors from the 18 inch wheels to the 20's because I drive on the 20's most of the time. It was a trivial task. The sensors are attached to the tire valves and are easy to change.

Hi Everyone, I just bought a 2004 Cayenne Turbo with 18" wheels and an extra set of 20" wheels. I am now running the 20's on a day-to-day basis and plan to use the 18's for mountain/snow. The 18's came with tire pressure monitoring sensors but the 20's do not have them. Is it possible to move the TPMS sensors from the 18's to the 20's, or at least add TPMS sensors to the 20's? If so, are these trivial or non-trivial (meaning expensive) modifications? Thanks in advance.