perryinva

PLastic bag clogging is pretty similar to the control flaps messed up. Right diagnosis, wrong solution!! The best fix is the free easy one!!

So much easier to leave the change at home...or in the tip jar...or donation/charity jar! :) Prevention is always the best method, of course, but then the best way to never get a ticket is to never speed, ....but we do....the best way to retire early is to live frugally and save...but we buy Porsches...sometimes it just CAN'T be helped!!! :D

Fix for the flap here: http://www.carboncow.com/pages/porsche/heater_door.htm General discussion here http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ir++black++mold

Just a FWIW, but I had the B&M on my 2002 C2 for a few months and tired of it pretty quick...1st was always a bear, and the shifts were just too short and clunky. I think it would be great on the track, but it just never felt right to me. MAYBE I just never got it dialed in ( I still have it, in the carrier, in case I want to try again.) I installed the 997 stock shifter which was cheaper than the B&M, easier to install, and reduced the throws roughly by 25% percent. Feels great, maybe a scosh longer than ideal for me, but worlds better than the 996, and better "feeling" than the B&M. Best price new from Suncoast.

Don't you just HATE the sound of change falling there out of your pocket when you hit the gas hard???? My BMW was even worse for that!! Drives me crazy knowing that change is stuck down there. Here's what I do: Move the seat all the way forward and up. Take a shirt dry cleaning hanger and cut it and bend it so you have small hook at the end. I find I can push most anything down under the rails with the wire and then hook it from underneath to get it out. In the 996, luckily the rails are thin, so anything that falls in the rails is easy to flip out. Dimes are the worst. I actually make an effort to always use any dimes I get all the time...a habit from my Z3 where they were impossible to get out w/o taking the seat out.

There was a post a few months back about someone else having a similar issue and it turned out to be some disintegrating foam/rubber coating on the flap door, which prevented it from sealing and moving correctly.. He noticed small bits of black "stuff" coming out the vents. I tried to search for it but I really can't be sure it was here or Renntech. Unfortunately I can't even recall what the soultion was..hope it doesn't happen to me!! The search engine on this site is so bad that it's hard to get a good response from key words. Maybe someone else will chime in

My 2002 C2 does exactly the same thing on all points (40k miles) I noticed that if you apply the gas or brake (upset the balance of the car) when exiting or entering on a wide sweeper ramp, the pressure needle dances. If you keep it smooth it stays steady. In fact, when the oil is really hot, (like over an hour) I noticed a fluctuation eveytime I hit a dip on the interstate. It's THAT sensitive. This is why on most cars the oil pressure indication is heavily damped, so you don't see spikes & dips like that. Sounds all normal to me.

It is almost always a bad Series Resistor. $75 from Sunset, IIRC. Just need to know how to solder to change it out.

When mine did the same thing, (less than a week after I got it) it was a loose plug/coil wire. I went and bought the software right after that. It was $148 I could have spent on better things than to tell me I had a misfire on plug #1 and a 10 min fix.

NOT TRUE! KevinMac, I was going to make the switch to Mobil's 5W50 until I looked at the HTHS (cSt) numbers. The 5W50 is a 4.22 vs. a 4.35 for the OW40. So, it looks like the 5W50 has a lower high-temperature high-shear viscosity than the 0w40. I think this is the downfall of an oil with a large range like a 5W50. I use 5W40 Red Line. The HTHS viscosity is over 5. I don't know the exat numbers. Most people are under the impression that any X-50 will be thicker than any X-40 at 100C. I don't have the info at my fingertips, but I've taken courses in Tribology, and I thought I remembered that each rating covers an OVERLAPPING range with the next rating. So a 40 could be be thicker than a 50. The viscosity ranges stated are to differentiate the actual formula mix. In GENERAL, narrower speced ranges have better numbers, within the SAME manufacturer. So a 10w-40 will be thicker than a 0-40 and possibly even a 5W-50 at 100C, but would be thinner than a 20W-50 for sure. And a 5W-30 could be thicker than a 10W-40, but not if it is thicker than 5W-50, as that would make the 5W-30 thicker than the 5w-50, and the ranges don't overlap that much. Now, it's been 15 years since I took those courses, and it may not even applt in this case, but I would certainly hope that Porsche would specify the right manufacturers viscosity to use for a reason. It is also a great misconception that a higher viscosity oil will be burned less or protect better at temperature than a lower viscosity. Viscosity and lubrication quality are totally unrelated. There is a right range and a wrong range, as designed by the engine maker. What IS happening is that if a higher viscosity oil is used and less consuption is observed, it only means that the oil is NOT GETTING TO the places it is needed, and less is used as a result. My professor used to say, he can carry 5 qts of oil in sealed containers in his car trunk and honestly say that his car never uses the last 5 qts. If it's not getting there it isn't doing any good! If you put tar in the crank case, you won't use any either but your engine will sieze. It's all a matter of degree. If an engine is using excessive oil at the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer, then there is something wrong, out of spec, or worn. Now, like I said, I'm not starting a war, and if 5W-50 by a certain manufacturer is recommended, then TRY it. You only have $70 to lose if you change it yourself, and it MAY show you something! I'd still get my oil analyzed by a lab (like Blackstone, about $20)..that will also tell you a LOT!!!

Yes, from the forums, dealers have been putting in new remanufactured by Porsche engines under CPO. The RMS and IMS are right over each other, so your leaks were probably IMS all along. Failed IMS that causes oil to pour out is destroyed engine. I HATE this, as I own a 2002 C2 Coupe with 40k miles, and it is NOT CPO, and I I bought it in March of this year. So far, it's been perfectly quiet and dry. I just changed the oil to Mobil1 0w-40, and it eliminated some niggling issues, like feeling the Variocam plus at 3200 rpm, and some lifter ticking at idle. The old oil only had 5k miles & 8 months on it and was Mobil 1 but unknown viscosity, so I decided to change it, and VERY glad I did. Can I ask what you paid for the car, with the CPO warranty and where you're located?? So strange, because the car never lost power, and it was never running without oil... but it was pretty loud at idle for about a minute. If a broken intermediate shaft means they'll likely replace the engine (under CPO), then I should be pleased, right??? Thanks - appreciate the insights.

[Not trying to start any kind of flame war here, But unless your car is leaking oil, changing to 5w-50 will most likely do nothing 5w-50 is thicker when cold, so less likely to leak, but is actually thinner when hot than 0-40, according to Mobils spec. I don't know for sure about the Castrol, but in general, you will always get inferior lubrication when you have a significantly higher spread between the cold & hot rating for viscosity, due to the increased viscosity modifiers that have to be added. I know your car is under warranty, but you will just have to break down and DO some investigative work (or pay to have it done). It's not magic, there are only so many places the oil can go. If you are burning that much oil, then you are poisoning the cats and O2 sensors, and an inspection will show that. Leakdown tests only prove there IS a leak around the valve guides, sets or rings when it fails, it unfortunately doesn't prove there ISN'T one when it passes. Inspect the TB, it's easy, fast & free and will eliminate the AOS for sure. What happens to your idle when you take the oil filler cap off AFTER the engine is totally warmed up and in closed loop mode? These are simple things that ANY competant 996 mechanic would do in an hour to at least get you SOME kind of place to start. Pull the plugs on the sooty bank. Compare them to one on the good side. Yada yada yada..the list is long, but easy.

don't waste the money on a recharge...your compressor clutch is shot.

I KNOW someone here will tell me that LEDs don't burn out..well they can, and mine has. The yellow one that gives a little cabin light and is located where the map lights are. Voltage is good, and if I stick a 12VDC LED in there it lights. The problem is the P-car one is sort of odd square shaped & embedded in what looks light red silicone. Already checked at dealership, have to buy entire unt for $45. Too much when all I need is an LED. Anyone know someone that stripped that part out for a track car or a salvage place that might have one? None here in Richmond.

No, it doesn't automatically choose high when low is not there. AC fans are on at low speed or when coolant hits a high temp. when coolant hits high-high temp, hi speed kicks in. If the OP's low speed fans didn't kick in before the high speed did, then he has a problem somewhere. Also, on my 2002, even if I let the car idle after a spirited run w/o AC on, even in the 90's, the low speed fans only turn on occasionally. I've NEVER seen (or heard) the high speed fans w/o jumpering the high speed relay contacts.

I don't want the connector that plugs into the amp, I want the connector that is IN the amp in order to build an easy way to interface a good amp to the existing wiring. Let me know if you find anything!

Don't feel bad at all, I had brought the same topic up a few weeks ago and DID do a search. While I love the people at Renntech, this has to be, hands, down , the absolute worst search engine of ANY message board I have been on (at least 20-30). It CONSTANTLY returns topics that have NOTHING to do with the keywords. Very frustrating. To answer your question, the speedo is intentionally 4 to 5 mpg high for liability and european laws. My PGS also corresponds exactly with the Autoenginuity software reading the DME speed.

I used Goop brand from the auto parts store, heat & oil resistant, like heavy duty rubber cement for something similar (VW logo in engine compartment of Passat). So far so good.

Mine is same year, model, etc, 40k miles & does the exact same thing. Took lower shields off and found nothing loose. Figured it has to be either control arm bushings or upper strut bearings (which definitely groan once warm). Not worried about it, but hope it goes away when I eventually update/replace the suspension. Let me know if you find anything & I'll do the same!!

Or you could go to any Autozone, Pep Boys, or Advance auto and buy a can of ....spray-on....rubberized..undercoating..!!! Works great, and tough as nails. Much easier to use & clean up over spray on than the truck liner stuff.

Dude, you just replied to a guy who posted this thread more than 3 years ago!! Read the dates!!

My passenger seat does it..its where the seatbelt cable/clasp squeaks against the leather. never heard anything so loud from a seatbelt!

That piece is actually to prevent packages from shifting forward during a stop.

I checked all my trim pieces- they're fine and tight. Yeah, I've done a little here and there with cars ;) http://www.pbase.com/itsmeek I double checked and was told that these are the correct cupholders for my application. I put a heavy coffee cup in one of them the other day and it seemed fine until I made a turn and the coffee cup almost fell out. I suppose I can put double sided tape or velcro on the cupholder to hold it in. Thanks again! Strange. I actually reused ones I had from my 528i, by just flattening and rebending the SS top. Works great.

Do any of the VW or Audi autodim mirrors that I see on ebay (A4, A5, Passat, etc) have the same mounting boss on the windshield as the 996? If they do, I can do the rest! Anyone mount an alternative autodim mirror? Thanks.