Pkscheldt

Enzo, I'm assuming you're CTT is first Gen. If you haven't already, I'd look first to your battery (s) under front seat and potentially in back - some have a 2nd, mine did. I found batteries lasted about 3years in my first CTT until they started to cause wonky electrical issues such as PSM failure. The smallest drop in battery performance caused me all kinds of grief. After that it really could be a multitude of issues causing the message depending on the codes. Cheers!

I've replaced a few sets of these in my cars including my original CTT. Getting 10 years out of them is great! In my experience they start to "fade" and then change color and ultimately flicker at about 80,000 miles. I've read that they're usually good for 3000 hrs, but am no expert. Replacing with OEM sure fixed my issue.

This is one I found: http://www.eagleday.com/cayenne-v8-955-coolant-pipe-repair-kit.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=19600381160

Unfortunately not, it is embedded in the rack. Not a cheap fix actually. Also, fairly certain the "workshop" code your getting for the suspension is because you need to rebuild the compressor. Very common, google it and you'll find kits. Yours will be the same as the one used for the toureag.

Correct. There is a micro switch in the rack that can wear out. In mine it slowly stopped working. Sometimes I would try to start the car and it would do nothing, then I would pull the key and re-insert and it would be fine. This happened intermittently over about a year and then over a three month period a couple of times while driving the car would shut down period. I would then stop pull the key, re-insert and it would be fine. Then one day it just wouldn't start and when I say start I mean nothing worked except the radio. The biggest problem with this was diagnosing it because it never threw a code, then when it completely failed you couldn't even use the durametric code tool because the micro switch is so early in the start progression of the cayenne's system that the DME wasn't even energized at all.

Well for number 1 I can tell you that is exactly what was happening before: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42712-2003-cayenne-turbo-will-not-start/

I've been following you're story and can relate to this. I had an electronic gremlin in my original CTT that prevented the engine from starting amongst a few other things. I tried to troubleshoot it in a similar manner myself as I'd owned the car since new and frankly was used to tracking down solutions to strange problems. i got some feedback from this board, replaced batteries, ignition switch/module and then ended up having it towed in to a very reputable local P dealer. It took 3 weeks for them to track the issue down and get the car to start. All kinds of relays, fuses, harnesses and modules were replaced before the actual issue was resolved. They'll find it. Best of luck to you!

Fire up the Google machine! an "OEM Porsche parts" search will usually pull up my favorites out of Oregon, Texas and California. You can find deals, but it requires a bit more work.... Have a chat with your local P car dealer. Year and VIN will give you the appropriate part numbers, then once your armed with this information do a little old fashioned haggling. Not sure what year your CTT is, but my bet is this will be a strategy that will come in handy for you in the future. Also, I replaced all of the interior trim (also Aluminum) on my first CTT. $470 is a steal my friend. Cheers!

Good points! I wasn't thinking about suspension related items, but should have been. I've already replaced the engine torque arm. Those things are lucky if they last 50K miles. I went through a few of the torque arms on my first Pig. Do keep an eye on the Suspension Bushings, they really caused me a bit of a hassle as they didn't show any obvious signs of failure until I started seeing bad tire wear, and the wear was almost immediate. I took it in for an alignment and that's when at just after 100K I discovered nearly all of the bushings were torn or deteriorated. They weren't plain to see until it was up in the air and the adjustment bolts were being turned and the rubber could be seen separating.

Congrats! I'd start looking after 100K at all of the Rubber bushings in the suspension - upper and rear control arms front and back, engine torque arm. Gas tank vent line, brake booster air line.(all of these plastic lines will end up failing eventually) Mine made it past 175K and needed all I have mentioned plus CV's all the way around as well as a few wheel bearings. Cheers!

Sorry to hear that. I've become good friends with my local service mngr because he's a good guy and because from 2003 to 2013 I had the first CTT in the shop 31 times, Early on most of these visits focused on electronic gremlins, which went away after year five and then came back with a vengeance in year 8 on. I replaced nearly every module in that car from ignition to abs. I've mentioned before that I loved my first CTT, but in the end the gremlins drove me insane! Engine was excellent though. Cheers!

you hit that one on the head. Apple Valley Minnesota here. Home of the salt corrosion!

Don't be scared, you'll love it! They are, with mine I rebuilt the pump twice over 10 years no big problem. The trouble I had was diagnosing a persistent suspension fault, the coil/shocks were great in my case it was the actuator that the airline fed into at the top of the "shock" that ended up being my issue. They all ended up corroding and causing intermittent problems when driving. My local dealer ultimately wanted to replace all of the "canisters" at about $1600 per and it ended up running me the cost of a special wrench bit and about 250 for the parts

I hate to jump on the bandwagon, I currently have a 2013CTT and had a 2003 and let it go with over 150K (from new) on the ticker - I love the car! It still ran like a champ in between various electronic break downs. All I have to say is be ready with suspension bushings(really anything rubber), vacuum hoses, fuses, sensors, coils, wiring harnesses, Modules etc and send out for your durametric tool right now. I am also a DIY'r and I absolutely enjoyed working on the car and the fixes were fun to track down, they just start to become more expensive as the modules age. I spent over $8K in my last year of ownership on the 2003. If you had a rover then you'll really appreciate the fun of trouble shooting the air suspension on your CTT. Cheers!

Sorry to hear about that. Unfortunately a good friend of mine did something very similar to his 09 Cayenne and I helped him trade it out. I want to say it was just under $600 at the dealer here in Minneapolis, I believe they called it an engine cover. I remember the very front did come off but am pretty sure the rest was one piece. He did his damage after only three months of ownership. Also, I can vouch for the Snap on LED shop light. Very bright and cool to the touch: http://www.amazon.com/Snap-92164-25-LED-Rechargeable-Angle/dp/B000QTOQ32

I wish you well. This is Loren's house.... But, not trying to be argumentative I disagree that a MAF will not cause a "no start issue" in a Cayenne. I agree that a car or specifically my Cayenne did/will start with no MAF, and that a disconnected MAF will throw a code. But "no MAF" is quite a different thing than a faulty MAF or a dirty/oily MAF, as disconnecting or having no MAF will default the system to a pre-programmed fuel etc setting which if the MAF is problematic will allow the car to start. In my case, a dirty MAF did create a very LEAN situation which resulted in slow to start activity and intermittent rough idle. This condition only happened for me in cold/low temps on two separate occasions. No codes were throne, except when I disconnected the MAF(s) and it started fine. It could very well be a fuel pump issue as well. On a separate note with respect to codes. I had several different instances over the years, including much later when my primary fuel pump went out where a code was never thrown for a variety of different engine system issues. Best of luck to you!

Here are my 2 cents.... I clean the throttle body and the MAF every 50K. This is something I do in all of my cars and it has served me well. In my Cayenne I never had any codes associated with the MAF. The idle would just start to be a little less smooth, and I would have periodic slow to start periods when temps would drop. I'd take out the MAF(s) and spray them with CRC MAF cleaner. NEVER touch the sensor. At the same time while the MAF was drying safely I would remove and thoroughly clean the throttle body. Some say to never clean the MAF and to just replace them, but I've found that every modern car I've ever had eventually suffers from a dusty/dirty MAF and is much happier when it is clean.

On the 03 CTT one winter I had the P2146 and I believe it was either an injector or a wiring harness to a bank of injectors. I know at the time my favorite tech said it was rare and he hadn't heard of it. I also had the P0150 with this as it was a result of the P2146. Once P2146 cleared it did as well. I had P1549 multiple times. For me it was a result of dirty connections from various front parking assist sensors. Dirt got inside the wiring harnesses.

No worries! Best wishes to you. You English is much better than my German.

That is the very tutorial I found and used. Just for clarity though, a "porsche service guy" doesn't use a durtametric. If he/she does I would find another service guy. You or I or any Enthusiast uses a durametric to work on their car, read codes and perform basic coding and reset CEL's for a couple hundred dollars. A porsche tech uses a several thousand $$$ PIWIS Tester tool. I'm in my 2nd CTT, put over 150K on the first. The durametric tool has been invaluable. When yours throws its first airbag, EVAP, cylinder misfire, flap/servo issue with the HVAC code etc you will be so happy to quickly diagnose and fix the problem. Enjoy your new ride!

you can order any number of lowering modules for tons of $$$ or get a durametric tool and the software and change the ride height to whatever you like.

None of this sounds fun.... I changed the fluid twice on my original CTT. I can't speak to the seepage issue and feel absolutely horrible about the bolt, but I have a thought on the short fill of fluid. My money is on a bad seal with the o - ring and filter. I had the same issue with my first ATF fluid change, finding 5 containers of unused fluid. I tore everything back off and found that the o - ring had slid slightly out of the groove and developed a pinch. I changed out the filter and o - ring again, buttoned up and all was right, she drank everything I had and more. Also, compete side issue, but if you are having random rough downshift issues you may want to pull the AT Valve body off while you're fixing the bolt issue and have the solenoids re-built. I'd tow her in though as opposed to driving it. I've played around with that transmission a bit and repairing it adds up into the thousands very quickly.

+1 on the MAF as the issue

Unfortunately there were no codes to be read by the Duramteric because the system wouldn't "energize" it was a bit of a nightmare. I posted about it extensively on the board in Sept or Oct 2012. When the sensor went bad it would not allow the system to progress to ignition. Interior lights worked, door looks worked, and radio worked nothing else. It literally took days worth of tech time with the Dealer and PNA to sort it out. It's an issue though that the VW Touareg guys have dealt with in some of their early high mileage cars. I believe it's simply an issue of wear and tear on the rack/sensor. The way the PNA rep explained it to me was pretty straightforward. Over time the sensor fails slowly, he said that some times you might put the key in and turn it, but the car may not start, then you pull out the key and put it back in and it starts fine. This was the case with mine. The issue with the main wire bundle under the drivers seat is/was separate from the rack issue. You'd be shocked to see the number of leads and the number of splices and connections that are in it.... The codes you are getting PSM, TIPTRONIC, steering angle sensor, DME, multiple CAN messages those were all the same and very intermittent. The Tech actually chased the bundle under direction from PNA TECH when they were first trouble shooting the steering rack issue. We were never able to completely solve it. I had a few discussions with the PNA Tech guru (he was absolutely first rate by the way) he told me that over time just the water on your shoes can seep through the carpet and cause the problem. By the way, I hated to get rid of the car. I swear at 158K it was as fast as the day I drove it off the lot. It's just that last year I dropped entirely too much $$$ to keep it on the road. I swear my 2013 CTT isn't as nimble.

It sounds like you have a few separate issues: fading stepper motor, ac fading, slightly loose connection on the left headlight connection (wiring harness) etc. which are all typical for a CTT of your year and miles. They all impacted mine. But, the issue your explaining of power loss coupled with all of the significant codes the durametric pulled before lead me to similar issues I had with my CTT. The first was a dodgy steering rack, which did what you described exactly twice. The first time the car just shut down while on the freeway. I waited a few minutes and it a started up no problem, then a year later I went to start it and everything energized but the car would not start, it was a bad sensor buried in the rack that was not sending the proper signal to allow the car to start. The dealer spent days and $$$ trying to figure it out and the contacted PTEC and replaced the steering rack - issue fixed. The second is an issue that has effected MANY Touaregs and few Cayennes, it is moisture from rain and melted snow seeping through the carpet on the driver side over the years and causing significant communication problems with one of the main wiring bundles that travels under the drivers side area. This is the issue that plagued me; it had intermittent effect on Kessy, the main DME, etc. I had all of the connecters replaced (dozens). It ended up being a nightmare and the reason I parted with my first CTT, which had over 150K on it by the way....