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About Moose

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 BMW 323i
    2001 Boxster 5sp
    1987 Porsche 928S4 red/black interior
  • Future cars
    No plans
  • Former cars
    81 5sp Porsche 928 "moosgrunmetallic"
  1. Advisable before the fact but not on point or helpful after the fact. :rolleyes:
  2. Loren, now that he knows what needs to be done, it's a matter of doing and documenting it. The question is what he will need down the road to dispute the denial of a warranty claim if he's missed something and a preventable, catastrophic error has occurred. If the dealer did the inspection and missed it, you have one "enemy," so to speak. If he does it himself or has an indy shop do the maintenance, there will invariably be questions about whether the failure occurred somewhere other than the dealership. Interesting. The intervals have changed.
  3. It's not clear to me that (1) there is a 30K service interval. See: http://www.porsche.com/filestore.aspx/defa...iletype=default Although service intervals have increased, I'm not sure they have increased from 2004 to 2008. Perhaps they have significantly. In any case, if you have a 30K service interval, it's not clear you *must* use the dealer to conduct the service required at 30K miles. To your question, service intervals and the recommended checks and maintenance are also located: http://www.porsche.com/filestore.aspx/defa...iletype=default good luck
  4. Same issue last year. Turned out to be the front trunk light. I removed the bulb. I also had a bad voltage regulator and had left my radar detector in the cigarette lighter all week, which raised the issue more prominently. After two fried batteries and a new voltage regulator, I just left the front trunk bulb out. Although an inelegant solution, I generally disconnect the negative lead to the battery, located in the front trunk right in the center toward the windshield, if I'm leaving the car off for a few days. That may very well mask a battery drain but so be it. :drive:
  5. Update: I've had the alternator bench tested and it is fine. The electrician said that it was obvious there was a loose connector at the rear of the alternator/volt regulator because there were signs of it rubbing on the back of the alt and, incidentally, beginning to melt some of the plastic. He took the back off, cleaned the connectors, reassembled it and gave me a second nut to separate the connector from the back of the voltage regulator so as not to melt the plastic and to hold/tighten the bolt into the assembly. He said I should clean the connector that attaches to the alt as it was prob
  6. New last year. Frankly, I've replaced the battery more times than I'd like to admit, but twice it was actually a bad battery-- from Interstate both times. This time it was a NAPA battery and I went back to have them test it (hoping it was merely heat killing the battery within warranty). I'm dreading putting the alternator back in (regardless of whether it needs to be replaced) because the last two times I've been in there, I've had to remove the coolant plate to which it attaches. Well, the first time I didn't replace the coolant plate gasket and then I had to go back in. Second query: i
  7. Last year, I replaced my voltage regulator that was attached to the alternator in my 01 986 5-speed with success-- until today. The bat light came on again and I checked the two top side ground straps of which I know (bat box and passenger side in engine compartment visible from above the engine). Yesterday, I had NAPA check the battery with the engine off. Good battery. Needs recharge. Then they had me start the car, rev the engine slightly, and turn on the lights with a multimeter-like machine attached to the battery posts. Their diagnosis is "not enough voltage from alternator"-- howe
  8. In October 2005, I removed a coolant line cover (996 101 021 01) that also fastens the bolt (996 101 021 01) for the alternator. See illustration 101-05 in Boxster shop manual. I did this to make it easier to shove the alternator into position on top of the block but under the intake "ribcage." Wrongly, I did *not* replace the gasket (996 101 331 50) and I believe that is now why I am now leaking coolant onto the plastic undercarriage panel. By the way, a word to the wise from the unwise: this appears to be a less-than-$5.00 part that could have been replaced the first time. :eek:
  9. What is the part number for the hex-head coolant block plug on the 01 Boxster 5sp non-S US left hand drive? Is it 900 378 035 09 in illustration 101-05 on Porsche PET? Many thanks in advance. :) Moose
  10. :thumbup: SUCCESS-- loose ground strap. GaryFB-- I called a Porsche dealer and told them my symptoms, e.g., got a partial turnover and then mostly clicky-clicky. The Porsche service manager said that the immobilizer is an interrupt in the starter circuit so should not have gotten anything if it was an immobilizer. He didn't think it was it, but it gave me great hope this afternoon and hope is a beautiful thing. Because then I went poking around in the engine compartment. And . . . The Box is alive. It does start. I haven't driven any distance to see if the alternator is charging. I will do
  11. It's not happening anymore. But the oil light goes on. Interestingly enough. I went to NAPA and they told me the battery is fully charged as well and that I should be looking for a serious draw that robs the starter of power. This draw apparently became more egregious after I removed and refit the alternator after replacing the voltage regulator. Two shops have now told me the battery is fully charged. One had no interest in its sale. I attached a test light to the battery; I am pulling fuses to put out the test light attached to the negative/ground strap from the battery. But there a
  12. It isn't. It's actually the fourth battery in the car in four years. I have replaced three in one year. The car is off-lease. It had an Interstate gel battery in it built new May 04. It was a faulty battery replaced by Interstate in July 04. That also went bad. Adjudged defective by the grunt but the boss said it wasn't. So I left never to buy another Interstate battery. I bought a Napa, but by then my alternator went bad charging up defective batteries. Now, my third battery and the car's fourth seemed to be dead but apparently is fully charged and the car will not start. See my previous post
  13. 01 5sp non-S US. Realizing you can't diagnose electrical over the internet, what could cause the following symptoms: Battery light is on before I even put key in after hooking up battery after charging it. Turn key on, then off, then on. Battery light is gone. Click-click-click no starty when key moved to turn over starter. Charge battery for a few hours on 1.5 amp. Little better. About a quarter turn over. Starter seems to want to engage. Take battery to Sears. It's a fully charged battery. Cannot charge it anymore. Huh. Put it back in. Try to start it again. Same symptoms. :help:
  14. Thanks, taking it to a shop tomorrow to get it charged. Then I'll test the alternator's ability to recharge once the car is running (hopefully). Leaf tour this weekend. Hopefully it will be working by then. Many thanks again.
  15. I read in the archives it could take weeks to recharge a completely depleted battery using a mere maintainer. Looks like I will be taking my battery to Sears to have them charge it on a real charger. :(
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