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Moose

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Everything posted by Moose

  1. Advisable before the fact but not on point or helpful after the fact. :rolleyes:
  2. Loren, now that he knows what needs to be done, it's a matter of doing and documenting it. The question is what he will need down the road to dispute the denial of a warranty claim if he's missed something and a preventable, catastrophic error has occurred. If the dealer did the inspection and missed it, you have one "enemy," so to speak. If he does it himself or has an indy shop do the maintenance, there will invariably be questions about whether the failure occurred somewhere other than the dealership. Interesting. The intervals have changed.
  3. It's not clear to me that (1) there is a 30K service interval. See: http://www.porsche.com/filestore.aspx/defa...iletype=default Although service intervals have increased, I'm not sure they have increased from 2004 to 2008. Perhaps they have significantly. In any case, if you have a 30K service interval, it's not clear you *must* use the dealer to conduct the service required at 30K miles. To your question, service intervals and the recommended checks and maintenance are also located: http://www.porsche.com/filestore.aspx/defa...iletype=default good luck
  4. Same issue last year. Turned out to be the front trunk light. I removed the bulb. I also had a bad voltage regulator and had left my radar detector in the cigarette lighter all week, which raised the issue more prominently. After two fried batteries and a new voltage regulator, I just left the front trunk bulb out. Although an inelegant solution, I generally disconnect the negative lead to the battery, located in the front trunk right in the center toward the windshield, if I'm leaving the car off for a few days. That may very well mask a battery drain but so be it. :drive:
  5. Update: I've had the alternator bench tested and it is fine. The electrician said that it was obvious there was a loose connector at the rear of the alternator/volt regulator because there were signs of it rubbing on the back of the alt and, incidentally, beginning to melt some of the plastic. He took the back off, cleaned the connectors, reassembled it and gave me a second nut to separate the connector from the back of the voltage regulator so as not to melt the plastic and to hold/tighten the bolt into the assembly. He said I should clean the connector that attaches to the alt as it was probably dull or had bits of plastic melted to it and that could affect the system negatively (no pun intended). It's hard to describe in words, but it made sense and it looks like that was the problem. I will update the list with my findings once reassembled on the car. My question remains, however, if I can put this baby back on the car without removing that coolant plate/bracket to which it attaches and draining the cooling system. Thoughts? David Cmelik 87 928S 4 auto "indischrot" 01 986 5 speed "seal grey metallic" 00 BMW 323i black on red
  6. New last year. Frankly, I've replaced the battery more times than I'd like to admit, but twice it was actually a bad battery-- from Interstate both times. This time it was a NAPA battery and I went back to have them test it (hoping it was merely heat killing the battery within warranty). I'm dreading putting the alternator back in (regardless of whether it needs to be replaced) because the last two times I've been in there, I've had to remove the coolant plate to which it attaches. Well, the first time I didn't replace the coolant plate gasket and then I had to go back in. Second query: is there truly anyway to fit the alternator to the block without removing this plate? 87 928S 4 auto "indischrot" 01 986 5 speed "seal grey metallic" 00 BMW 323i black on red
  7. Last year, I replaced my voltage regulator that was attached to the alternator in my 01 986 5-speed with success-- until today. The bat light came on again and I checked the two top side ground straps of which I know (bat box and passenger side in engine compartment visible from above the engine). Yesterday, I had NAPA check the battery with the engine off. Good battery. Needs recharge. Then they had me start the car, rev the engine slightly, and turn on the lights with a multimeter-like machine attached to the battery posts. Their diagnosis is "not enough voltage from alternator"-- however, "no diode ripple detected" from before is not the problem as was the case previously! They suggested I left a plug or wire loose when I reattached the voltage regulator and that the best option was to pull the alternator and have it bench tested to make sure it didn't need to be replaced and then, if not, to shore up the connections and make sure they are tight and also make sure the serp belt is properly tensioned. Any other thoughts? Will bench test alternator at shop this week. :renntech:
  8. In October 2005, I removed a coolant line cover (996 101 021 01) that also fastens the bolt (996 101 021 01) for the alternator. See illustration 101-05 in Boxster shop manual. I did this to make it easier to shove the alternator into position on top of the block but under the intake "ribcage." Wrongly, I did *not* replace the gasket (996 101 331 50) and I believe that is now why I am now leaking coolant onto the plastic undercarriage panel. By the way, a word to the wise from the unwise: this appears to be a less-than-$5.00 part that could have been replaced the first time. :eek: My questions are these: 1. Do I use any kind of form-a-gasket material to seal the gasket (996 101 331 50) when I replace it? 2. What is the torque value for 996 101 021 01? Moose 01 986 5 speed "seal grey metallic" US left-hand drive version 87 928 S4 auto "indischrot" US left-hand drive version
  9. What is the part number for the hex-head coolant block plug on the 01 Boxster 5sp non-S US left hand drive? Is it 900 378 035 09 in illustration 101-05 on Porsche PET? Many thanks in advance. :) Moose
  10. :thumbup: SUCCESS-- loose ground strap. GaryFB-- I called a Porsche dealer and told them my symptoms, e.g., got a partial turnover and then mostly clicky-clicky. The Porsche service manager said that the immobilizer is an interrupt in the starter circuit so should not have gotten anything if it was an immobilizer. He didn't think it was it, but it gave me great hope this afternoon and hope is a beautiful thing. Because then I went poking around in the engine compartment. And . . . The Box is alive. It does start. I haven't driven any distance to see if the alternator is charging. I will do that next after buttoning down everything. :lightbulb: The ground strap that was loose was the one that is on top of the engine compartment near the passenger side intake manifold. It was all my fault. :eek: In desperation during the alternator remount phase, I began loosening nuts and bolts on that side of the engine when I could not successfully remount the alt-- I instead contemplated removing the intake to get a better angle at it, but then had the better idea of removing the coolant line on the forward side of the engine block. Oh well, live and learn. Button down things and make sure all ground straps are secure. I have a feeling this saga is not quite over, however . . . Many thanks to all of you who replied. Feeling like a :king:
  11. It's not happening anymore. But the oil light goes on. Interestingly enough. I went to NAPA and they told me the battery is fully charged as well and that I should be looking for a serious draw that robs the starter of power. This draw apparently became more egregious after I removed and refit the alternator after replacing the voltage regulator. Two shops have now told me the battery is fully charged. One had no interest in its sale. I attached a test light to the battery; I am pulling fuses to put out the test light attached to the negative/ground strap from the battery. But there are SO many things that draw on the battery when the car is shut off. The radio, the alarm, the instrument cluster, interior lights, etc. I know the recommended action is to "one by one" test each circuit by removing each fuse "one at a time," but this seems to me counterintuitive. How can you really see if there is a draw if you leave all of the normally operating circuits intact-- those which draw battery power when the car is off as a matter of course? Anyway, I appreciate the help, but it has been tough going over here. :wrench:
  12. It isn't. It's actually the fourth battery in the car in four years. I have replaced three in one year. The car is off-lease. It had an Interstate gel battery in it built new May 04. It was a faulty battery replaced by Interstate in July 04. That also went bad. Adjudged defective by the grunt but the boss said it wasn't. So I left never to buy another Interstate battery. I bought a Napa, but by then my alternator went bad charging up defective batteries. Now, my third battery and the car's fourth seemed to be dead but apparently is fully charged and the car will not start. See my previous posts for alternator woes. Oh boy. :censored:
  13. 01 5sp non-S US. Realizing you can't diagnose electrical over the internet, what could cause the following symptoms: Battery light is on before I even put key in after hooking up battery after charging it. Turn key on, then off, then on. Battery light is gone. Click-click-click no starty when key moved to turn over starter. Charge battery for a few hours on 1.5 amp. Little better. About a quarter turn over. Starter seems to want to engage. Take battery to Sears. It's a fully charged battery. Cannot charge it anymore. Huh. Put it back in. Try to start it again. Same symptoms. :help:
  14. Thanks, taking it to a shop tomorrow to get it charged. Then I'll test the alternator's ability to recharge once the car is running (hopefully). Leaf tour this weekend. Hopefully it will be working by then. Many thanks again.
  15. I read in the archives it could take weeks to recharge a completely depleted battery using a mere maintainer. Looks like I will be taking my battery to Sears to have them charge it on a real charger. :(
  16. 01 5sp non-S US model 986. 120 amp alternator. Just changed the volt regulator. Earlier connected red wire to B2+ along with black wire. Per Loren, changed red wire to B1+. Refitted alt to engine block. Now, of course, battery is dead. Hooked up to 1.5 amp Craftsman float charger. Man, it's taking forever. It's been on there over 20 hours and has managed to give enough juice to make a slow 3/4 crank. Whirr-whirr-whiiiiiiirrrr. Click. Click. Click. So . . . How long to fully charge depleted 12 volt car battery with a 1.5 amp float charger/maintainer?
  17. 01 5sp non-S 986. I hooked up my voltage regulator (back of alternator) last weekend. My battery is now dead after three days of not driving. Do the two wires with the integrated washers attach to the same bolt on the back of the alternator? That's how I hooked them up. I don't have a battery light anymore. I also don't seem to have charging but, again, no light. Many thanks in advance. I only ask because I'm looking at the old volt reg here in my office and it seems to have some wear on the far left screw hole that indicates that may be wear one of the wires attached. :unsure: I'm not talking about the plug which is idiot proof. Please advise. David
  18. You mean with the top down and collapsed behind the seats and the lid closed on top of it? I'd say the answer is a flat "NO." Car wasn't designed to be driven like that. She'll go right off the trunk lid with the slightest acceleration. Explain that one to your insurance company. Also, the sheet metal on our Boxsters is not that thick. I can't imagine sitting or leaning on any part of it that wasn't meant to be sat on. Even by a 100 pound beauty queen. My advice to your niece: ride in the seat with a seat belt on.
  19. PTEC, I appreciate the quick response. Especially on the weekend when you've got other stuff going on. Many thanks. Well, here's the scoop. I've worked on it for more than five hours trying to hoist it into place with bailing wire, leveraging it with a wrench, using twine to try and move wires out of the way, with an unhappy assistant. Edited Update: the alternator is in place after removing the coolant line and the plate that holds the lower "eye" bolt hole for the alternator. The problem now is that I dropped the pulley spacer that goes on the longer bolt into the "drink" that is in the pan below (small amount of coolant came out, held line upright after that). Also, the bolt does not want to start because the threads on the upper rear alternator appear to be somewhat chewed. If I remove the alternator, which is not a hard task now, I'll have to clean up those threads if possible, and refit. Taking a much needed break now and washing off blood, grease, coolant. :oops: Thanks for all the help. David
  20. Update: I've looked into removing the intake. I'll do it if I have to, but the bolts in the diagram are obscured by various wiring harnesses and other obstacles. Jesus, could Porsche have packed ^&*$ in any more compactly? Another hour on it this evening and I threw in the towel for now. Start fresh in the morning. I'll probably try and lift the back of the alternator in place with some bailing wire through the opening in the intake up above. The post from Dubai stating that this was a 2 hour job was quite optimistic.
  21. '01 986 non-S 5-speed. '01 5-sp non-S 986. I've already had the alt out; replaced voltage reg. Access panel removed. Shelf/carpet/engine cover removed. I can see the engine compartment from the top-- all I see is the intake manifold (resonating "pipe organ") and power steering reservoir. Now, I'm putting the alt back in with refitted volt reg back onto engine block. I've tried to replace it by putting it back in through the access hole/panel in the fire wall from the pass. compartment. Can't get it back in there. Not enough wiggle room. The intake manifold is acting like a rib cage. I can't get at the alt from the top. I'm considering removing the intake manifold (graphic below) to get access to the alt from the top. Advisable? What pitfalls to watch out for? Etc. Thank you in advance.
  22. Thanks for the wisdom on this list. :cheers: Update: Removed alternator before reading this post. I earlier bought a new battery. Bat light remained on. The Napa guy used his tester to indicate that the car needed a new alternator. I agree that he is probably trying to sell parts-- but I thought I'd have the alternator and the Bosch volt regulator on the back of the alt tested by a reputable electric motor shop here in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Hope it is the volt regulator, which I can replace with a Bosch/Mercedes/VW part for, as I understand it, $20-80. Many thanks again-- I will keep the list posted.
  23. I'm by no means an expert, but I did read on this list that a loose spark plug can create some wierd noises under load. Have you recently changed plugs? Just a thought, albeit a shot in the dark. Good luck. Moose 01 Box 5sp non-S seal gray
  24. Any chance you have a couple of months left on your 4 year warrantee (meaning a free replacement?) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> None, but the thought had occurred to me. I actually found a discussion of possible bad alternator/voltage regulator posted by BoxsterSS November 26, 2004. It discusses examining the wire winding (smells burnt?), checking to see that the pulley rotates smoothly (issue with tip versus 5 speed-- I had heard there is) to see if the bearing is sound, and ultimately the voltage regulator or rectifier is bad. Replacing the alternator is apparently not necessary if the regulator is bad-- and there is a list of other-mfg'er cross reference part numbers in that post, including: VW Golf, New Beetle, Mercedes, and Audi A3. I am going to check this out and keep the list posted on my progress. Many thanks for all your help. :cheers:
  25. Drained my '01 Box Non-S battery with a radar detector in the garage by accident for an entire week (didn't drive it, didn't maintain the battery, left the detector in there after a trip to Road America). Went to a P-car function last weekend and after the function, noticed an audibly slower crank on start up. Took the battery to the seller and had them trickle charge and test it. At this point, no battery light was on. Tech at the seller said it was a bad battery, no Cold Cranking Amps, that it should be replaced under warranty. Store manager said he was reading the machine wrong and that there were plenty cold cranking amps. Put it in car, drove it 30 miles, battery light came on but it was starting the car fine. The NAPA dealer concurred (without me telling them about previous diagnosis) that battery had no cold cranking amps, but didn't ask if I wanted to check the charging system until after I purchased a $100 battery (didn't want to fight with the previous seller-- they had already replaced the battery under warranty once in February 05). Then, he told me to start up the car with the alligator clip machine attached to the battery and he tested the system. His diagnosis: "No diode ripple detected-- you need a new alternator." I asked if it could be a relay, if it could be another component of the charging system, a bad ground strap, or something, and he said it was probably a faulty diode in the alternator as that was the machine's reading. Please advise. I know some archive posts suggest looking at the ground strap. On my 928, I had many such straps. I kept them clean and the connectors clean and lubed up with dielectric grease. I used vaseline on the bat straps on this car and the ground strap in the bat compartment appears clean and attached well. I have not examined the underside of the car. I have priced alternators-- I see Pelican distinguished between 5 speeds and Tips. Mine is a 5 speed. I understand there is a fixed pulley on tips and a free wheeling pulling on the 5 speed. I'm not sure of the difference. Many thanks in advance. :( Looks like I will get some garage floor time under the Box soon. I am not an electrician, so please go easy on me regarding techincal descriptions. My question is whether I should go straight to the alternator, straight to the Irish whiskey, or a combination of relay, multimeter, harness, booze work. David Cmelik '01 Boxster Non-S 5 speed 2.7L
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