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dcdrechsel

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Everything posted by dcdrechsel

  1. 1999 cab inside door handle cable clip .I ordered 999.507.568.40 and they don't fit .Does anyone know if the early cars had a different clip ? Thanks
  2. Could a defective AOS be a candidate ?It is an inline component in the cooling system .
  3. I think the durametric software could help isolate problem areas .This assumes that trouble codes are being set .Another option is to send the dme to an expert and have them go thru the unit (not sure how they handle the immobilizer -one option is to program it out ).You are dealing with a lot of unknowns and that is tough to navigate ,it would be a lot easier with a known good dme and correct maps .
  4. This might sound strange but are all air bags in and connected ? Another poster encountered similar issues -his steering wheel and airbag were were removed .Car thought it had been in an accident and shut itself down .
  5. Great project and thanks for sharing .Of particular interest is the wiring and the handshake with the ecu's .Does any documentation exist that can be purchased ?The mechanical side sounds pretty straightforward although time consuming and a great opportunity to spend money .Did you use the electric water pump ?There is a fellow on Rennlist that started with the electric and later changed to mechanical .In fact I think he also has deleted the power steering . I am in the thinking about it stage and believe it would be a fun project and probably a breakeven to a Porsche engine rebuild .
  6. Not so sure this is an apples for apples comparison .The LNE kit has 3 basic components -the bearing -the improved stud and a new flange or hub .I would assume that Jake and Charles designed the hub and stud to avoid another failure point .If you accept that the hub and stud have value then your reverse engineered solution isn't that much of a bargain .Yes I installed the LNE solution myself 2 years ago Dave
  7. I was under the impression that the LNE bearing is not an off the shelf item but was specially packaged based on specifications provided by Charles and a retired bearing Engineer( consulting with Charles) .
  8. Not sure this helps but.....I believe that at roughly 5,000 rpm the variocam returns to non advance .This could be simply a coincidence but I don't think so .If the car idles normally and runs fine until that threshold it could be a culprit .Not knowing how the dme is programmed it's hard to say why the rest of the bank doesn't show misfires . Just a thought...........
  9. I think and stress think there is a firm in Georgia that rebuilds .The first place I would suggest calling is Flat 6 innovations and see if they can recommend someone .If they do recommend someone it will be a top notch firm .
  10. Google-mikefocke's web site and look for diy on visor retaining nuts .It's complete and includes pictures .
  11. How was the fuel pressure and volume ?If I remember correctly -rotten egg smell is a failing cat .So yes it's bank 1 without a durametric hard to pinpoint much further than you have .
  12. Just to be sure might not be a bad idea to check the fuel pressure .Based on Lograys experience the injectors are probably a good idea .Did you replace the AOS as part of the rebuild ?
  13. I missed the fact that the miss moved to the other bank when sprayed with flamable stuff .A good candidate would be the pipe from the throttle body to the AOS .It can be tricky to seat properly and not too hard to crack .If it were an injeftor or even an intake manifold leak I don't think it would affect the other bank .In what area were you spraying when it moved to Bank 2 ?
  14. A Mighty Vac is a hand held vacum pump with vacum gauge .Really simplifies testing control valves and hoses . Although your injectors may be suspect It's hard to believe that three would be bad on one bank only .It would seem that something else is contributing to the misfires with a time (heat ) dependency .
  15. I should have been more clear on the orings -supposed to be replaced everytime injector replaced .
  16. Don't know about the injector orings .I thought they were a once and done .The fact that it's sucking up the carb cleaner sure points to a vacum leak .I guess with the straw on the carb cleaner you could get a more precise "shot" at probable areas , Once you get the problem identified might want to think about changing the oil . Another question when did you put the techron in ?Before or after the fuel filter change ?It's possible some junk found it's way to the injectors -but it seems more likely it's a vacum leak .With a might vac it's pretty simple to test .Really only three major compon
  17. Humbling.........never thought of fuel filter .Good call by your wife .Good luck ,your on the home stretch .
  18. Since the code is immediate and idles badly -high probability the actuator is toast
  19. one more thought on 1324 -if there were a partial activation it might read funny and trip 1324 ?
  20. I think 1539 trips when the actuator is activated and nothing happens -which could be a flaky assembly( either valve or solenoid)also could be a bad wire . 1324 I don't get .It is for the condition that the exhaust cam is not in synch with intake cam .How can the engine run for 20 minutes and then discover this ?Seems more logical that the sensor is misreading .
  21. Have you checked continuity from the sensor all the way back to the DME ?I would also take a look at the wire harness plugs(the big ones) probably wouldn't hurt to reseat them .On the surface the most likely candidate is a flaky connection that is causing the timing codes .I would think if the soldered connections were the culprit it would trigger the cel immediately .
  22. This may be a dumb idea -try disconnecting the maf .Better yet disconnect battery and let dme reset as step 1 and maf as step 2 .If it ran ok at first start this might help zero in on what's malfunctioning .
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