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About krazyk

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  • From
    Orange, Tx.
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2003 Porsche C4S

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krazyk's Achievements


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  1. I know this is an older post but I also stay on the look out for alternatives for other filter choices for our 996's. Awhile back I had been checking at the local Autozone and looked at the STP brand. They were made in China of course and I was a little worried about using them. I Was looking again tonight and when I looked at the various brands, much to my surprise the STP part# S8278 is now made in GERMANY!!! So I bought one to try it. The bad news is the price has went up to $13.99. You can sometimes get a special IIRC.
  2. Sorry Im late to this but I never use metal tools for work like this. Keep a set of these handy. There are many jobs they can be used for while working on your Porsche and they wont easily scratch it like a screw driver. Their perfect for CI and they wont scratch peoples cars. $15 at Auto Zone.
  3. Not you, sorry. Many others gave me giref about "debri" on another forum for my theories. I appreciate and read everything here you guys post. I think Jake is careful to say too much about his research but I hope he goes into detail in his new book.
  4. IRRC, the pumps are different because the tanks are different. They certainly have different part numbers. Even the return system is different. A shop should have known better. C2 is on the left, C4/C4S is on the right. #4 is the pump.
  5. After researching everything I could possibly find about IMSB issues, my theory behind not using seals at all is because of a few known facts: It seems every IMSB that has been inspected has had oil go through the seals into the tube. Oil allowed to freely (no seals) go through, in, and out of the bearing as engine conditions change (oil level, temp, etc.) cant possibly harm the bearing but will in fact keep it better lubed. Sealing the tube with an expansion plug still poses the risk of creating differences in pressure. Sealing the tube by using the bearing seal on the tube side only is completely useless because hot oil will compromise that single seal just as it does the dual sealed version. The seals are designed to protect against dust and dirt not hot oil. Alleged debri protection afforded by the seal(s) is a baseless argument because LNE doesnt use a seal on the flywheel side anyway. You are certainly correct. Its each owners choice to decide. I would like to hear anyones theory as to why the tube must be plugged.
  6. I certainly understand where Jakes coming from but does everyone realize that the OEM SR bearing is indeed an "off the shelf" $12 bearing. Some seem to last and some dont. Those that dont can usually be explained. I would imagine installing the OEM type SR bearing without the seals would work just fine. I decided to install a Bocca CH SR bearing without the seals. When I drop the engine again later this year, I will check this bearing and probably replace it with the US made CH. If one chooses to look and do the research, there are many "off the shelf" CH SR bearings that far exceed the specs of the OEM SR bearing. If I remember correctly the LNE bearing is made by Timken.
  7. The bearing install is easy but one of the most important things is qualifing the engine for retrofit in the first place. Im currently working on sourcing another USA made single row ceramic hybrid bearing at a much lower cost than the LNE bearing kit. I have learned people are very touchy about this subject and resist any new input.
  8. Hi, Firefly. Good thread but some of the info is wrong. The OEM Porsche SR bearing has two seals. To me its just common sense. These seals were never meant to keep hot oil out. They should have never been installed in the first place. I took the simple approach of no seals to allow oil to freely move in,out, and through the bearing. I recently dropped the engine for some other things but left my unsealed experimental ceramic hybrid bearing alone. I think I will drop the engine again later this year or maybe next year then remove and inspect the unsealed CH bearing. Theres some great threads about the bearing theories. BTW, hope your engine project is going well. You sound like a great DIY'er.
  9. JFP, you are exactly right. When I posted "use the best oil" I was indeed referring to JG DT40 and Jakes 6 month/5000 mile schedule. Common sense dictates that this alone may prevent many problems for the M96. Dont know why that seems to bother so many Porsche owners.
  10. Actually thats a little off for PM. At a minumum you should: Use the best oil and change it 6 months/5000 miles. The Porsche maint schedule is laughable. I know the usual things, IMSB, etc, I was referring more to internal upgrades to make the engine more reliable. Better rods, rod bolts, liners, pistons, head studs, etc. I think Jake is finally going to reveal his exact method to bullet proof the M96.
  11. No bellows on the 2003. The part is very different. Having recently done this on my 2003, I dropped the engine and trans. I also had a few other things to do but I and others will tell you its so much easier to replace if you remove the engine on a 3.6 car. Its also a good time to replace the coolant tank, hoses, and several other things.
  12. I know JR's book is due out in a few months and I hope he includes some of the best things the M96 owner can do to increase reliability. Without going into the MOF's or CEF's list I would like to see at least a "top 10" list or something.
  13. Recently I dropped my engine/trans to replace the AOS/OVS, oil filler tube, seals, hoses, etc. and found that some of the 996 parts are NLA and being replaced with 997 parts. For instance just FYI the main right side coolant hose is now a 997 part and you have to get the o-ring type flange with it (see photos). The oil filler tube is also now a 997 part number. At least it makes the coolant hoses look more modern I guess. Anyway just a heads up. Im sure there's still some old stock parts at some dealers but it looks like their trying to move us on to some of the 997 parts that can be made to interchange.
  14. Deadeye, its easy to extrapolate info from an OEM bearing to see where its sourced and the complete specs. JFP, what do you think about replacing other bearings in the 996 with ceramic hybrids? For instance, I found a CH pilot bearing, etc. Would changing the wheel bearings and others to CH versions just be overkill? If the CH claims are true it would be the last time you replace that particular bearng.
  15. Eric, if your willing to do that much work just to install the IMSG, why don't you do the IMSB retrofit since there are many options now?
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