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Did you purchase a genuine Porsche (or Bosch OE) MAF, or an eBay knockoff? There are lots of reports that the cheap eBay knockoffs don't work well at all and you end up with the symptoms you are reporting.
Once they warm up they are not too bad - i guess Did I mention they flat spot easily? Even just sitting overnight the first mile or so was a bit lumpy. In the Sumi's favour, they are cheap. Performance/$$ is OK, they are just not a good performance tire IMHO. I'm very interested to hear your opinion though, maybe I'm just too picky about how I want my tires to perform.
Thanks for that. I don't do short drives but only use the car a few days per week. I'm probably going to take it up to another specialist in the next few days. I am wondering if the battery is on its way out and causing the voltage to be so low when it is charging off the alternator. Still doesn't explain the strong burning smell I had when the batt/generator warning light came on. I'll report back when i get it sorted! Needs a service anyway so I'll have the specialist look at it. Please report back what your specialist finds. Good Luck!
I used the HTR ZIII on my Boxster as a street tire when my car was a track rat. Ate through street tires in ~3k miles with the aggressive alignment. Best thing I can say about those is they stopped the *** of the car dragging on the ground. Not much grip, not much feel. Noisy after they were worn. Can't recommend them.
Thanks (again) Maurice. I can definitely see the drop is only about 1/2 of the working drivers side. I'll find a bike shop and pop in a bicycle brake adjuster. That's what I get for cheaping out on the regulator. My gut told me to go OEM, but my wallet won out. There was a note in the box with the regulator that said if you don't replace all the runners and guides along with the regulator, then even 1 activation may damage the regulator and "impact your warranty claim". In other words, they know they are selling junk! Lesson learned :cursing: :censored:
Thanks Maurice. I have the door panel off the car right now, so adjustments are easy. As far as I can see, there are only 3 points of adjustment. The 2 bolts in the bottom of the door that move the bottom of the glass in/out. There is only 1 other adjustment I know of and that's the upper screw closest to the lock. That has a slot that allows the lock end of the glass to move up/down. The other screw at the top that hold the glass appears to be fixed in position on the regulator with a tab. Are there more adjustments that I'm missing? I wonder if I simply have a bad regulator. I'll check the slack as per your previous thread when I get home tonight.
As a follow up, this was a pretty straightforward R&R. No idea why I was so reticent to try this earlier! I was able to pull of the vapor barrier intact and there was enough remaining goo to stick it all back down. If it does rip and need replaced, they are not expensive, <$50. Adjustment of the door was a snap. The only issue I had was getting the window to fit into the rubber gasket on the regulator itself. The glass kinda stuck to the rubber and just pushed the rubber down rather than the window slipping in nicely. Maybe I should have used a little lubrication? I would strongly recommend this as a pretty simple DIY. Labor rates here in the SF Bay area are crazy. This was an easy $1k job had I even had my indie do it!
Thanks for the suggestion, but I already did the "learn" procedure. The auto-up/auto-down works fine too. The adjustments on the bottom of the door only change the angle of the glass relative to the frame. Got that nicely adjusted so the window moves smoothly up and down at a consistent speed.
I just installed a brand new regulator in the passenger side of my '07 S. When I open the door normally, the window drops but still catches the roof as the door pulls out. I can pull the handle to drop the window, then pull to open the door and it clears the door fine. Closing the door is also fine. I adjusted the window after the install as per the instructions on Wayne D's 101 Projects For Your Boxster. When I compare the drivers side (which works perfectly) to the passenger side, the passenger side drop is only about 1/2 of the drivers side drop. Is there any adjustment for this? What could I have messed up/missed while installing the regulator? TIA
First my Boxster and now my TT need their passenger side window regulators replaced. On my previous cars, I have always had this job done by my dealer or indie, but fresh off a successful coil/plug replacement on the TT I think I'm ready to tackle this myself :) It all looks pretty straightforward, but I have a few questions about the foam vapor barrier between the door card and frame. 1. Is there enough residual adhesive to stick it back down once it's been peeled off? 1a. If not, what's the best adhesive to use to stick it back down? 2. Should it be replaced with a new one? 2a. Does the replacement come with adhesive? 2b. If not, what's the best adhesive to use? TIA
I wish I had some good info for you, but my car has always been difficult to gas up. Some pumps - like your car - I can barely get a gallon in before the pump cuts off. I went to every gas station on my commute (not all at the same time :)) until I found a station and a pump that is least sensitive. It has to be a specific pump though. The others at that same gas station allow my car to fill to about 3/4, then cut off. Good luck. Hopefully someone can shed some light on what is going on.
I have an intersection with a stop sign about 100 yards from my driveway. Pretty much every time I pull away from the stop, there is a little hesitation. Just that one, then everything is fine. Weather or hot/cold temp doesn't seem to matter. I'm in CA, so "cold" for me is 40 degrees.