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aracerx

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Everything posted by aracerx

  1. aracerx
    Has anyone actually removed the cat cells in replacement of a free flow tube? I have differing opinions and would be most interested in anyone's experience with this on a CGT? thanks Mark
  2. aracerx
    thanks guy, it really is nice when you guys are out there trying to help. after complete drive removal as well as pulley, we confident that the problem is the intermediate bearing INSIDE the $pit!. I did try to investige R/R oil separator just for giggles however I cannot find any DIY on the procedure Your help is VERY appreciated. I try to help also when I know what the problem is:-)-regards Mark
  3. aracerx
    Hats off to the Cap! not too many of us (me?) would admit to his faux pas.....The "Cap" is one of reasons I love this site! So many REAL people are on this site VS. others that "profile" - Mark
  4. aracerx
    Hi-thanks for the suggestion. I had the oil fill cap off when the screaching noise was occuring.-Keep up the ideas though
  5. aracerx
    well, I thought it would be a shot in the dark, but worth asking about anyway-what a noise too! Screeaaach!!!!! at dile and then the engine dies. Someone mentioned the oil separator? Don't think this noise is results from that, also check both blower motors on engine as a precaution to diagnosis. Happy Holidays!
  6. aracerx
    Thanks for the reply Loren-Hmm, the first thing I did AFTER thinking it was a belt driven issue was simply to remove belt and run engine-Same LOUD screaching! from directly behind the main front engine pulley. Funny, but spraying "brake cleaner" behind pulley made sound disapate? a little anyway? Strange,, thinking of removal of pulley to make sure? Wish someone else had this loud noise issue:(
  7. aracerx
    ANY results after engine removal? Hope it was repairable?
  8. aracerx
    only when engine achieves operating temp. At first I thought it was a pulley, no such luck. I narrowed it to "behind the front crank belt drive pulley. It HOWLS when warm and low idle speeds. Obvious lack of lube or bearing failure, inside front section of block, possible intermediate bearing. ANYONE heard of this failure? thanks-Mark
  9. aracerx
    REMEMBER THIS!!! It been my experience that most Porsche owners consider "their" dealer as they would the "factory" NOTHING could be more from the truth. they are just MERE agents of Porsche and nothing more! Besides the fact that most dealer principles got thier start in the "car" business selling junk used car in herculon suits on the side streets of their towns, WAXING those pencil thin mustaches. Many of them are just as much of a crook today as they were then. The only difference is that they steal bigger!
  10. aracerx
    Shameful...on their part actually....AND it happens way too much in my business. The dealer "service writers" are aweful and shamelessly part of a big picture of deception. I have the problem ALL the time when I quote a price against a dealer. Bottom line is that they LIE and the do it everyday. Low ball on the in and HIGH ball on the way out. NEVER would I go ahead with such a job without a complete discussion as to what was being replaced. Some of their price stuctures are really off the wall!--ok I've vented. "Most" dealers are scum on service after warranty is up.
  11. aracerx
    Thanks Vipe...I'm not sure yet as I've gone through all the posts on the subject. Interestingly, there have been several mentions of the "pinch movement "failure yet I've not succeeded in finding the answer. checked the reg. and it's tight and retaught the switch too?
  12. aracerx
    checked for codes and found none yet when opening or closing the door on Pass. side the window does not have that little up and down movement. I also noticed the interior lite does not actuate on that side of car? locks work fine- thanks Mark
  13. aracerx
    This situation is perfect example of why I (in the business?) actually enjoy renntech more than ANY other site. Just as importantly, and a little "nice" strange is that THERE IS NEVER MUCH MALCONTENTS on here...as most of us are aware...other "sites" seem to harbor nasty people who always have a comment! Loren and Co.-(you guys) are the best! Mark
  14. aracerx
    I agree, we have fitted and refitted various front covers on 996 for years and the GT3 fits the best and looks appropriate!-Mark www.formulamotorsports.com
  15. aracerx
    if so we would be interested in opinions on the vendors and their unique reprogramming. thanks
  16. aracerx
    All of the information available about integration of iPod and MOST can be found here Sorry, tried that shortcut and did not get any info on ipod install?
  17. aracerx
    Our helmet if off for "seniori tool pant":-) very fast guy!
  18. aracerx
    BRAVO!!! This dissertation is seminal with respect to what specialty web sites such as Loren's is all about!-Mark
  19. aracerx
    sounds really frustrating but really intriguing! PLEASE keep us informed as these types of faults are of great interest. I had a car 01 turbo that would only achieve .4 bar boost and have had a devil of a time with it. :cursing: Thanks for that Zippy-the car had several boost leaks but the problem remains unresolved-throttle jacking unit sounds interesting though. Basically all wiring has been checked and we now need to look at the DME to see if there is any corruption.
  20. aracerx
    Interesting question about the way they auto test on activation-how about it loren-??
  21. aracerx
    hard to help without further description of "noise". let us know what happens at dealer-warranty?
  22. aracerx
    The idea of this forum "may" be the best thing to come along in a while. All of us who use the tester and receive fault codes MUST become more comprehensive in evaluating what causes the code register in the first place. we all know that it is not always the sensor that the codes show which is the culprit. Core to using the tester is ability to wade through the surface data. THIS is what can make for interesting and informative discourse. Banding together on this topic would be (to me anyway) a superior way to integrate our tester knowlege. OK, anyone out there?
  23. aracerx
    Invariably, it is the drains in the front cowl area of trunk. They become clogged very easily, even though they appear clean. Be careful to check the alarm control unit under your drivers seat, as it can get ruined by water incursion! Mark
  24. aracerx
    Generally no, because usually when you increase a wheel rim measurement, you use the 'Plus one concept' - without going into the mathematics of it, if a chassis was designed with 17" wheels, when the rims are increased to 18" you have a corresponding reduction in aspect ratio (profile) of the tyres, so the rolloing circumference remains roughly the same. The "10%" factor in speedo "error" has been an "achilles heel" for Porsche cars for most of it's existance! I guess, we should all assume ALL 911's (in particular) have app. 10% less mileage than appears in front of them! :) Mark When one of my clients tells me of achieving 153 MPH on the back straight of Watkins Glen, I assume it was 143 :)
  25. aracerx
    Just a thught, did you put the front right rotor on the right side and the left on left, non OEM rotors are sometimes not marked.. "Sunset Porsche/Audi" Oregon. for OEM rotors Unless the steering wheel was shaking on hard braking, the rotors wouldn't be warped. brake fade will usually occur initially when using new brake pads/rotors at the track, especially after first or second session on them. just let them get to ambient temp and they are ok. Don't think that rotor is bad, no matter who manufacturers it.
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